Olive oil in CP

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Just found this pretty good link in my Bookmarks that addresses the problem with buying OO off the grocers' shelf . "Not all Olive Oils are Created Equally" by Soap Queen, Anne Marie.

https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/olive-oils-created-equally/
That’s amazing! And although I have read this article before, it was good to reread it. I use olive oil the most of any oil in my inventory. The only time I got DOS in the past 6 years was when I used Rice Bran Oil, which I had purchased from Lowe’s. I had a lot of it, so made a lot of soap and eventually they all developed DOS. For that reason I will not use Rice Bean Oil again. For me Grapeseed oil is also suspect because of the high linoleic and linolenic acid numbers. As far as I know my Olive oil soaps have been okay and since I tend to cure them longer, they are still around my house 6 months or longer without any problems. Anyone else care to chime in?
 
That’s amazing! And although I have read this article before, it was good to reread it. I use olive oil the most of any oil in my inventory. The only time I got DOS in the past 6 years was when I used Rice Bran Oil, which I had purchased from Lowe’s. I had a lot of it, so made a lot of soap and eventually they all developed DOS. For that reason I will not use Rice Bean Oil again. For me Grapeseed oil is also suspect because of the high linoleic and linolenic acid numbers. As far as I know my Olive oil soaps have been okay and since I tend to cure them longer, they are still around my house 6 months or longer without any problems. Anyone else care to chime in?
Almost every soap I have made has included at least 20% OO. I’m also using the yellow OO from the grocery store. I started at 5% SF, but dropped it to 2-3% a couple of months ago, with the Castiles being nominally 0-1% (could be higher for reasons I won’t explain here). I also try to keep my Linoleic and Linolenic combined below 15%. Up until this week, the one spot of DOS I’ve seen was in an early-ish batch that was high in soft oils other than OO and likely had a SF > 5%. That’s out of hundreds of bars of soap. This week I also found a spot of DOS on an end slice of a soap I made in early July that has 12% hemp oil. The DOS is right where I tried to stamp it with a piece of silver jewelry. Luckily, it didn’t work and I didn’t do that to the rest of the soap, which is fine. Which metals are the culprits? If high grade stainless whisks and pitchers and sea salt, which contains some metals, caused DOS under general use conditions, it seems like there would be a lot more reports of DOS.
 
Thanks to those who replied to my questions :)
Dawni, What kind of water do you use? I noticed that in one batch of my soap that got DOS, I had used tap water, not distilled. Also my linolenic and linoleic numbers were 18. I make sure to always use distilled water now (or another liquid) and I watch my #’s.
I also watch my numbers for linoleic and linolenic.. I try to keep them under 15 and they're usually lower, except for the outliers I experimented with like Castile, high RBO.. I've not noticed DOS in any of my soaps with RBO by the way, and I've used up to 30% in some. I also use filtered tap water... Could be that combined with 100% pomace, and a lot of sea salt, that caused the DOS here, and not any other soap, even older ones?
 
You make a good point, we all or anyway, lots of us, use wire whisks, and stainless bowls when we are making soap, but we’re told not to allow our soap to come into contact with metals. Doesn’t make a lot of sense. And if it were that bad, we would hear of a lot more problems.
 
Thanks to those who replied to my questions :)

I also watch my numbers for linoleic and linolenic.. I try to keep them under 15 and they're usually lower, except for the outliers I experimented with like Castile, high RBO.. I've not noticed DOS in any of my soaps with RBO by the way, and I've used up to 30% in some. I also use filtered tap water... Could be that combined with 100% pomace, and a lot of sea salt, that caused the DOS here, and not any other soap, even older ones?
The only other change I made after finding DOS a couple of years ago, is to only use distilled water. Or other liquids such as milks, Aloe, etc.
 
The only other change I made after finding DOS a couple of years ago, is to only use distilled water. Or other liquids such as milks, Aloe, etc.
I forgot to mention that I use distilled water when I use water, but I also use aloe and goat milk on occasion. As for metal, stick blenders also have stainless steel parts.
 
Looking online, I found several MSDS' for olive oil from different US companies, but not the one for Kirkland Signature Pure Olive Oil.

I am willing to bet that Kirkland is required to have all SDS' for their oils on file in their manufacturing plant because oils are flammable and under OSHA would be considered potentially hazardous. In fact there are many food items that are potentially hazardous. Lye is used in the food industry and in several food recipes in restaurants and in the industry. So yes, they should have them.

The fact that there is some difficulty getting it when asked is a problem that can be resolved with some persistence, I suspect.

Perhaps calling or going to speak with the store manager and explaining the reason you are required to have the SDS on file would help. If not, I would go up the line of command. Or perhaps I'd just start at the top and contact the CEO. I've done that in the past (not with Costco) and always got results. Even if it was a copy of an email the CEO forwarded to the person who should deal with the request, at least it gets their attention.
 
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I just used Walmart EVOO for a few batches. Guess I'll have to keep a close eye on them to see what happens. Costco is right down the street so that might be the go to source from now on.

Color me highly cynical but when a supplier puts out a test showing only their product works compared to anonymously sourced competitors, I kind of chuckle and say "cool story bro."
 
Looking online, I found several MSDS' for olive oil from different US companies, but not the one for Kirkland Signature Pure Olive Oil.

I am willing to bet that Kirkland is required to have all SDS' for their oils on file in their manufacturing plant because oils are flammable and under OSHA would be considered potentially hazardous. In fact there are many food items that are potentially hazardous. Lye is used in the food industry and in several food recipes in restaurants and in the industry. So yes, they should have them.

The fact that there is some difficulty getting it when asked is a problem that can be resolved with some persistence, I suspect.

Perhaps calling or going to speak with the store manager and explaining the reason you are required to have the SDS on file would help. If not, I would go up the line of command. Or perhaps I'd just start at the top and contact the CEO. I've done that in the past (not with Costco) and always got results. Even if it was a copy of an email the CEO forwarded to the person who should deal with the request, at least it gets their attention.
Actually oils are not particularly flammable. In fact, Olive Oil has a very high flash point. I believe it’s 460 Fahrenheit.
 
Actually oils are not particularly flammable. In fact, Olive Oil has a very high flash point. I believe it’s 460 Fahrenheit.

Oils by themselves are pretty safe. It is their vapor that causes the fires as in when they spatter from cooking and hit an open flame. This is the cause of a lot of Thankgivng and Christmas house fires from people deep frying turkeys.

Olive oil has one of the lowest flash points, about 410. It is a great little oil to use in a restaurant "show kitchen" because it flames very easily on a gas stove.
 
I use the kind you get at either Sam's Club or Costco. I dont' think it's pomace, but it's also not EVOO. somewhere in the middle.
Hi..I'm from India. Could you please tell me what is regular olive oil?? Is it a blend of refined olive oil and extra virgin?? In India we have few brands like disano, delmonte etc.. but those are ideal for cooking. They have Extra virgin, classic, extra light and pomace. Among these which comes under regular olive oil??
 
Extra virgin, classic, extra light and pomace. Among these which comes under regular olive oil??
You should probably search whatever government agency regulates olive oil in India. It's different for each country, with Australia maintaining the highest standards.

In the USA, 98% (last time I checked) olive oil produced here comes from California. The University of California, Davis, sets the certification standard for those products.

The North American Olive Oil Distributors Association sets its own standard and has been the subject of lawsuits claiming the olive oil they import may be adulterated. (Google "Fake Olive Oil") This applies mainly to EVOO. This has been an on-going problem here in the USA for some time.

Slippery Business is a New Yorker magazine article that explains how fake olive oil makes its way to our shores... and maybe yours as well? Although it was written in 2007, it is still relevant today.
 
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Hi..I'm from India. Could you please tell me what is regular olive oil?? Is it a blend of refined olive oil and extra virgin?? In India we have few brands like disano, delmonte etc.. but those are ideal for cooking. They have Extra virgin, classic, extra light and pomace. Among these which comes under regular olive oil??
There are 3 main kinds of Olive Oil: 1-Extra virgin olive oil, has a green tint. 2-Refined yellow olive oil, 3-Pomace Olive oil, which is from the dregs of the Olive, chemicals (Hexane) is used to extract the olive oil, and a bit of the chemical remains behind, which makes Pomace olive oil trace very fast.
 
which makes Pomace olive oil trace very fast.
I've read this so often that this time I feel the need to say, for me, that's simply not true at all. I've been using pomace olive oil since 2003 when I first made CP soap. i found the opposite to be true, especially "100% Olive Oil Castile" liquid soap. The first time I made it, it took 45 minutes to trace and the cook (HP) took 10 hours. That's much longer than normal LS.

That's why the temp for ZNSC is 100-110°F -- to speed up trace.

That's also why when I make 100% olive oil (or similar oil) liquid soap today, I use Carrie's GLS Tutorial -- it takes all of 2 minutes (yes, I timed it! LOL) to go through all the stages to become soap right before your eyes! NOTE: It is NOT a recommended method for Newbies due to the dangerous high heat and possible toxic fumes if you don't take the KOH solution off heat as soon as you see heat waves coming off the surface.)

I'm not saying your experience, @linne1gi, is invalid but, for the life of me, I can't understand where that's coming from?
 
I've read this so often that this time I feel the need to say, for me, that's simply not true at all. I've been using pomace olive oil since 2003 when I first made CP soap. i found the opposite to be true, especially "100% Olive Oil Castile" liquid soap. The first time I made it, it took 45 minutes to trace and the cook (HP) took 10 hours. That's much longer than normal LS.

That's why the temp for ZNSC is 100-110°F -- to speed up trace.

That's also why when I make 100% olive oil (or similar oil) liquid soap today, I use Carrie's GLS Tutorial -- it takes all of 2 minutes (yes, I timed it! LOL) to go through all the stages to become soap right before your eyes! NOTE: It is NOT a recommended method for Newbies due to the dangerous high heat and possible toxic fumes if you don't take the KOH solution off heat as soon as you see heat waves coming off the surface.)

I'm not saying your experience, @linne1gi, is invalid but, for the life of me, I can't understand where that's coming from?
I’m glad that it’s not your experience. But you are among the very few. Most find that Pomace traces exceedingly fast.
 
I’m glad that it’s not your experience. But you are among the very few. Most find that Pomace traces exceedingly fast.
LOL It's funny -- you know I've been around the soaping block since I made my first castile in 2003 -- with pomace OO because it was recommended in the books I learned from and recommended by mentors on groups I was a member of. So this is news to me -- SMF is the ONLY forum where fast-tracing pomace has been an issue. I can't help but wonder if one passes the caution on to another without actually experiencing pomace? :videovisit: 🤔

ETA: Since I'm retired now, I use Kirkland Pure Olive Oil from Costco. I don't notice any difference in trace times between it and pomace OO from Soapers Choice. But, as you say, that's just my experience. ;)
 
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I don't know @Zany_in_CO. My first soaps were made with pomace olive oil and traced very fast. I was given the pomace OO to use for my first few batches. I'm sure part of it was newbie enthusiasm with the stick blender, but changing to regular olive oil when I ran out of pomace and bought regular OO at the grocery store helped. No other changes as far as oils or technique, and this was before I found SMF or any other forum.

I've never gone back to pomace, so I don't know if I would have a different experience now. I can buy OO at Costco, which for me is the most economical choice.
 
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