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Yes, everything seems ok. Those numbers won't tell you exactly how your salt bar will behave, so don't worry about them. If you have to cut your soap, make sure you don't wait too long or it will get very hard and brittle (few hours can be too long).

I had heard about TD related to risk of skin cancer under sun exposure. To reduce the risk, the TD particles would need to be coated. This form of TD is more expensive. The article you linked warns against various small particles, not specifically TD: Yup, nanoparticles are evil :twisted:

Usually you can do that, but better use a soap calculator, just in case you're increasing certain number rounding errors.

Depends how you got the recipe. If that somebody has shared the recipe, they likely have done this assuming that people will use it.

Since the length is longer, any shrinkage will be more noticeable. If you don't believe me, feel free to try a size where the height is taller than the length :P Also, and I am not sure about this one, it's possible that any side that you cut will lose water more easily.

You need to use a soap calculator, like these ones: http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/Ca ... CalcWP.asp Basically, you enter the amounts of oils and it spits out the needed lye. Probably the easiest way to start is by replacing a small...

Yes, salt can irritate. Probably irritates other places aswell, but only your ankle notices it. I mean, your ankle may be your personal Achilles Heel :) You can try lowering the salt amount, maybe between 15 and 25%. For me aswell, 100% is too much.

Very good question, but I never seen a side by side comparison. What I do notice is that the numbers don't add up to 100%. You still have 5% of magic in there ...

People do care if you have an ugly spotted soap. Probably not if you've got a sexy even layer of ash. By the way, seems that ash can be steam cleaned.

I suggest a plain white soap, instead of rhubarb.

Cooking oils can be used for soap, but the quantities must be adjusted on a case by case basis and certain oils make a better soap than others. There are different cooking oils, for example it can be canola oil, or palm oil, etc. I am sure the label must say something to enlighten this...

Still curious what kind of vegetable oil you have actually used.

To me, the recipe looks zero SF. I'm not worried about turpentine, but I guess if you're going to use it a lot, may be better to wear gloves while doing so and work in a well ventilated area.

Not from what I hear, since it's basically the same oil.

Haven't tried, but I'm sure it's possible. You can make coconut milk in the blender.

BW is vastly unsaponifiable. Googling, I came across a surprising product, which is pure potassium BW soap as a cosmetic ingredient. I don't know exactly what it does, but I'm wondering how it would behave as a CP soap additive. http://products.brenntagspecialties.com ... eeswax.pdf

I find that it adds mildness to the soap. On that topic, it helps using the soap mildly, rather than scrubbing too hard. Maybe not necessarily the salt, could also be that her sweat is too acidic.

A little beeswax may be worth looking into (ask first if she isn't allergic to that or propolis). Start with 1% PPO, easier to use if you heat the wax together with oil until the wax melts, which may be a bit trickier at first, if you're not used to soaping that hot.

Wondering what's keeping the swirly decoration glued to the whole stuff. Won't it fall off when somebody's using the soap ?

Personally, I dissolve the sugar by boiling it in a little water and add it to the lye solution.