welcome to the wonderful and addicting world of CP soap making. my advice is on top of all the videos you've watched, read through the threads on the forum. lots of questions, answers and tips already contained in here (esp the stickies). good luck!
My number one tip - put your scale in a Ziploc bag. You can use it while it is still in the bag, and it will protect it from oil and lye spills.
If you don't have a scale yet, you need a food scale, not a postal scale. Postal scales are not always built to accuratly measure an increasing weight - such as if you are pouring oil into a bowl. Food scales are. You can get a decent on at BB&B. Dont' forget a coupon!
Speaking as a fellow newer soaper, I know you'll probably be excited to try the product. You will be told that your soap has to cure 4-6 weeks. This is not exactly true.
Once the initial cure is done (2 weeks, as far as I know) and it passes a pH or zap test, you can use the soap. It will be wetter and softer than it will be in a few more weeks, and will be used up faster. The dryer bar will probably perform somewhat better, too. But it's safe to try out and satisfy your curiosity.
I generally try a piece and let the rest of it dry for a couple more weeks.
Speaking as a fellow newer soaper, I know you'll probably be excited to try the product. You will be told that your soap has to cure 4-6 weeks. This is not exactly true.
Once the initial cure is done (2 weeks, as far as I know) and it passes a pH or zap test, you can use the soap. It will be wetter and softer than it will be in a few more weeks, and will be used up faster. The dryer bar will probably perform somewhat better, too. But it's safe to try out and satisfy your curiosity.
I generally try a piece and let the rest of it dry for a couple more weeks.
Don't wear your favorite pink sweatshirt while soaping
I know I'm gonna be curious lol. So how exactly do you do a ph test?
I have pH testing strips (actually a roll of the material that you just rip a piece off like tape) that I use. For a bar of soap you need to get the surface wet and rub up a bit of lather so it has something that can soak into the paper and react w/ the chemicals to produce the color change.
You can also buy phenolphthalein, which turns pink in the presence of alkali (lye or caustic potash, for our purposes). When it stops turning pink you know your soap is at or close to neutral and safe for skin.
I also edited my original comment to incorporate the info from the other users about cure time. I got the 2 week idea from a book, I believe, so I've never use a bar earlier than that. The difference between a your end product and a 2-day old bar vs. a 2-week old bar is sure to be more drastic, so I wouldn't try them out after just a couple of days.
Oh ok. Thanks. I'll have to find some test strips
Sorry but I disagree. Because of the surfactant nature of soap, ph strips are notoriously inaccurate. No need to waste the time or money.
Then how am I supposed to check the ph?
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