Soaps causing skin problem on hands

[justsomeguy]

Interesting, @A-Polly and @justsomeguy . Perhaps I am mistaken. I was taking my information from here:

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Are they required to list the inactive ingredients on the label? If so, I think that is definitive proof that I am wrong because you're right, they only list one ingredient, the castor oil.

Yeah. You list everything you add into the pot.

 

[A-Polly]

I believe that inactive ingredients are required — at least in the US — on the label for any drug (and if the castor is sold as a laxative, that probably counts as a drug). Not sure what the other info means. Is it usual to dilute castor oil for dosing? I have no clue! In any case, castor is a bit thicker than most oils, and at first quite shiny when applied to skin. I think you will be able to tell right away if it has been diluted with water. I imagine the oil and water would not mix at all without some sort of emulsifier, which should also appear on the label!

 

[QuietWorker]

I believe that inactive ingredients are required — at least in the US — on the label for any drug (and if the castor is sold as a laxative, that probably counts as a drug). Not sure what the other info means. Is it usual to dilute castor oil for dosing? I have no clue! In any case, castor is a bit thicker than most oils, and at first quite shiny when applied to skin. I think you will be able to tell right away if it has been diluted with water. I imagine the oil and water would not mix at all without some sort of emulsifier, which should also appear on the label!

Good point and thank you for catching my mistake! I appreciate it greatly.

 

[Ekuzo]

@QuietWorker now that's some rabbit hole!

Yes, on the label you posted it states water as inactive ingredient, but on the other hand ‐ 1mg in 1ml would be too diluted and there's no way that could be considered castor oil, let alone 100% pure. Maybe those are the impurities, as DeeAnna suggested. Or it may be mistake of some sort, you can get in touch with them and ask. Yes, it's always a good idea to get oils from vendors who provide specifically for soap making, but even if you decide to take this one ‐ you will know if it's castor or something else right away, as A-Polly mentioned, it's tick and then some

 

[lenarenee]

Just wanted to say this happens to my hands too with store bought soap, and my Aunt’s hands, and we don’t know why. I have noticed if I wash my hands too frequently in a short period of time it happens. It seems like the soap doesn’t get completely rinsed off and then builds up on my hands and causes this, that’s my theory anyway. It’s only happens in summertime too which is weird

Have you considered that it might be your water supply? We have city water and the treatments needed to keep it clean change on a nearly daily basis. (Made it very difficult to keep healthy aquarium since the chemical and mineral content of our water changed so rapidly). Your summer water may have more minerals or other things that limit how well the soap washes off? (just a thought)

 

[Jackie H]

Have you considered that it might be your water supply? We have city water and the treatments needed to keep it clean change on a nearly daily basis. (Made it very difficult to keep healthy aquarium since the chemical and mineral content of our water changed so rapidly). Your summer water may have more minerals or other things that limit how well the soap washes off? (just a thought)

That’s a good possibility! I have to double filter our water because the chlorine was making me sick, it probably is effecting my skin too!

 

[QuietWorker]

My understanding was that one bar was the Dr. Bronner's brand, and one was Dr. Squatch; is that right?

For me, both of those formulas have way too much coconut oil (which is very drying in soap), and way too much scent (which can also irritate my skin). I recommend formulating a very gentle bar of handcrafted soap that is less likely to cause that kind of dryness. If you are open to using animal fats, try this:

60% lard
20% coconut oil
15% liquid oil of choice (olive, avocado, sweet almond, rice bran, high oleic sunflower)
5% castor oil
Set the lye concentration to 33% (be sure to change it from water as percent of oils!).
Set the superfat to 5%

For a vegan bar, you could try @KiwiMoose's vegan recipe that she has so kindly shared here. Scroll down to post #16 to see the recipe.

Whatever you make, you can start testing it around 72 hours after making. But it won't be as mild or bubbly until it has cured for about four weeks. I recommend making a 1-2lb batch to start - that's enough for four to five bars. If you aren't sure you want to invest in this hobby, use what you have around, or buy inexpensive things at a thrift store, dollar store, etc. Plastic food storage containers work wonderfully as beginner soap molds, for instance, as long as they have the #5 recycle symbol on the bottom. Cardboard boxes work equally well if you line them with a heavy plastic trash bag or some freezer paper.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask if we can help you along the way!

Hey, @AliOop !
I don't mean to resurrect this thread, but I was looking at this recipe again and it caught my interest. Can you tell me the best way to make this? Can I use like a 33% lye solution strength and a 5% superfat? Or what would you recommend?

 

[AliOop]

Hey, @AliOop !
I don't mean to resurrect this thread, but I was looking at this recipe again and it caught my interest. Can you tell me the best way to make this? Can I use like a 33% lye solution strength and a 5% superfat? Or what would you recommend?

Sure you can definitely do both of those things - those are great starting points for people as they learn how to make soap. As you become more confident, you can experiment with lower superfat, higher lye concentration - or you can stick with what you know is successful for you.

One of the great things about making soap is the flexibility to tweak a lot of things to end up with the product that's right for you.