Andrew since you don't sell any soap with soy wax listed as an ingredient (on your website), why do you say you use it so much in your business? Just wondering.
I think maybe @Dean does?I'm too lazy to hunt for it (too early in the morning lol) but is anyone nice enough to repeat it, if it's been posted before?
Has anyone used soy wax alone as their hardener, without palm, animal fats n nut butters, and to some extent, low coconut/babasu/pko, with only soft oils for the majority of the recipe?
I know one of KiwiMoose's recipes include at least Shea, and Steve's above combined it with lard... Just curious if it turned out as good as the recipes that had any of the above mentioned fats even at a smaller percentage.
As promised, I'm to compare how it is as a lard replacement, and that particular recipe of mine has only soft oils and 17% coconut only (once lard is removed)... I'm still gonna do it but was wondering what I should be looking forward to.
Has anyone used soy wax alone as their hardener, without palm, animal fats n nut butters, and to some extent, low coconut/babasu/pko, with only soft oils for the majority of the recipe?
Thanks for that very interesting read @earlene - I could have done with that 6 months ago! But I'm past all my experimentation now and happy with my recipe. One thing I will mention is that in the first thread you have linked, it says that SW takes forever to come to trace, but I have not had that experience. As far as I can tell - it takes as long as the oils/butters I used before turning to SW (not palm or animal fats). And I can say, it doesn't take long at all - maybe 3 minutes?The closest I've come to not using any other hardening oil in a soy wax soap is to use CO in the recipe. One of these days I may try it without a lower or no CO, because I don't always use CO, but so far I have not made one with only Soy and the rest soft oils.
Saranac, from whom I took my lessons about using soy wax, uses some CO in her recipes, so I have not tried it without. But I am open to experimentation. And when I do run out of CO, and that has happened in the past, I have made soap without it.
If you want any links to discussions in which Saranac talks about her use of soywax in soap here are some good examples:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/practice-makes-perfect-disasters.63560/page-3
Start at post # 58 and read through on page 4 as well.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/for-the-love-of-soy-calling-all-soy-wax-soapers.68900/
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/palm-free.68838/#post-682881
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/replacing-palm-oil-for-recipe.67472/#post-676310
Thanks for that very interesting read @earlene - I could have done with that 6 months ago! But I'm past all my experimentation now and happy with my recipe. One thing I will mention is that in the first thread you have linked, it says that SW takes forever to come to trace, but I have not had that experience. As far as I can tell - it takes as long as the oils/butters I used before turning to SW (not palm or animal fats). And I can say, it doesn't take long at all - maybe 3 minutes?
Another thing I will mention is that I've never taken my temps. I'm working on pure guesstimates of temperatures - I reckon the oils and lye are in the vicinity of 35-38 degrees celsius ( approx 95-100f) when I mix them.
The thought of getting stearic spots scares me a bit. At what point might they become evident? I've got soap that is 4 months old with no stearic spots, does that mean I'm in the clear? The stearic acid content in the FA profile of my standard recipe is 23.
as far as i know that is not in production. It is also somewhat unnecessary as soy wax is washed and tested free of all DNA and other chemicals. Glyophosphate also breaks down in water.
Wow! It is so white! Mine is never that white upon unmolding - although I did notice the soap in the spare bathroom had gone whiter with age (now almost 5 months old).KiwiMoose.....finally yesterday I made your recipe, the used method was at room temperature. It was a big surprise for me as I expected to trace almost immediately and instead it was fluid and manageable. I stick blend just to emulsify, then with spatula and sometimes with stick blender but not continuously. I put it in the oven with light bulb on for 1 hour and did not gel. Unmold and cut after 18 hours, it was very soft to the cut, after 24 hours I cut one of the soaps and still soft. Tomorrow I will cut again one of the soaps after 48 hours to see how hard finally is.
I like it a lot, it's a very nice white color and it leave the hands silky but dry. I have to wait at least a week to try it again.
Thank you very much for sharing the recipe, at least I made a recipe with more quantity of soy wax with success.
This is the soap it is unscented as I want to try the recipe without additives, just make a small amount as it was a test, this time I used a 331 gms. mold.
View attachment 38263 View attachment 38261
It is there.Andrew since you don't sell any soap with soy wax listed as an ingredient (on your website), why do you say you use it so much in your business? Just wondering.
hereGood to know about the Glyphosphate. But how is DNA washed away? I'm also curious how as to your sources of info. And thank you very much!
I think your green soap has stearic spots or stearic swirls.Thanks for that very interesting read @earlene - I could have done with that 6 months ago! But I'm past all my experimentation now and happy with my recipe. One thing I will mention is that in the first thread you have linked, it says that SW takes forever to come to trace, but I have not had that experience. As far as I can tell - it takes as long as the oils/butters I used before turning to SW (not palm or animal fats). And I can say, it doesn't take long at all - maybe 3 minutes?
Another thing I will mention is that I've never taken my temps. I'm working on pure guesstimates of temperatures - I reckon the oils and lye are in the vicinity of 35-38 degrees celsius ( approx 95-100f) when I mix them.
The thought of getting stearic spots scares me a bit. At what point might they become evident? I've got soap that is 4 months old with no stearic spots, does that mean I'm in the clear? The stearic acid content in the FA profile of my standard recipe is 23.
It is there.
The green one I made in the tube - yes I think it has. I always thought they were little clumps of rice flour, since I put some of that in it.I think your green soap has stearic spots or stearic swirls.
It wasn't there the last two times and looked and still not there today, so I don't think so.
Unless you don't list it in your ingredients list, none of the soaps on your site (I looked at every one of them) include soy wax in the ingredient list on your website.
Examples of most of your ingredient lists (straight from your website):
- Ingredients: Saponified cocoa butter, kokum butter mango butter, shea butter, castor oil, jojoba oil, palm free stearic acid, sodium lactate, essential oils, tussah silk
- Ingredients: Saponified Olive Oil, Water
- Ingredients: Saponified Oils of Olive, Coconut, Shea, Castor, Water, Essential Oils, Sodium Lactate
- Ingredients: Saponified cocoa butter, kokum butter mango butter, shea butter, castor oil, jojoba oil, palm free stearic acid, essential oils, sodium lactate, tussah silk
- Ingredients: Saponified cocoa butter, kokum butter mango butter, shea butter, castor oil, jojoba oil, palm free stearic acid, fragrance oils, sodium lactate, tussah silk
Body Balm: Ingredients: Mango Butter, Shea Butter, Argan Oil, Jojoba oil, Beeswax, Vitamin E, Essential Oils
- Ingredients: Water, glycerin, Saponified Oils of Olive, Coconut, Castor, Sunflower, Essential Oils, Vitamin E, Citric Acid
I don't see soy wax in any of them, so if you are using it, are you not listing it?
@Andrew would you know if it will be similar for the 444 as well?soapee's calculator has soy wax at 27% hydrogenated. that is pretty close to 415's 30% if i remember correctly
Going off the melting and iodine values, it looks like 444 and 415 are the same except 444 has monoglycerides as an emulsifier.@Andrew would you know if it will be similar for the 444 as well?
I know you've said SAP value was same for all soy wax, but I was wondering in terms of properties...
For those that want to use Soy and Soy Wax.
There are Many people that will not use anything with Soy.
There are also many people that see the word WAX and don't want that in soap either.
just an fyi.
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