I’ve got some little soap dough caterpillars I’d like to paint eyes and mouth on. I’d love it if they didn’t smear too easily. Any suggestion?
Maybe you could poke little eye-holes into their faces and dip a toothpick into oil-dispersed black mica and, using the same toothpick, dap that into the eye-holes? Or, if you're making soap, reserve a tiny bit of batter, add black mica and use that??I’ve got some little soap dough caterpillars I’d like to paint eyes and mouth on. I’d love it if they didn’t smear too easily. Any suggestion?
Indeed, it will work. If you want a saturated black I would use oxide. It's the only time I use oxides.@SoapWitch will activated charcoal work for black soap dough?
Your rimmed soap looks great. Haven't heard of this Soap Challenge sponsored by Amy Warden' where is it?There's a challenge going on right now (the one sponsored by Amy Warden) and it is the lollipop swirl. However for the advanced category you have to do something on the outside of the circle, either piping, an impression mat or a soap dough rim. I have been working on the soap dough rim and it has been such fun! I never thought I could do it. Here's one of the rims (not a good lollipop though).
Haven't heard of this Soap Challenge sponsored by Amy Warden' where is it?
https://soapchallengeclub.com/
A lot of the members post videos on YouTube! They are awesome!
My fav this month!
You're pretty handy, build one! LOL! I just want to try that our with one layer! it was so cool!That pour makes me want to get a slab mold!
Where to begin... There is the thread that needs to be pulled to open up one's creativity. Start with basic shapes. The Wizard of Oz incorporates basics and more complex ideas.
If you'd like to explore some ideas I have over 300 free blog posts about soap dough, mostly. I also have 100's of videos up, many for basic shapes. I cover how to start with basic shapes and go over each shape.
Everything I have shared is built on basic shapes.
And thank you, for your compliment on my Wizard of Oz soaps.
If I'm pretending to be wise, the best platitude I've got is, "Don't fix what's not broken."Dough DISASTER!
What a miserable, sad, disaster mess! I’m hoping to get some insights on what happened. It’d be great if it never happened again, to me or anyone else. Also, I really want good workable soap dough! I’ve made a ton of soap dough before, with this exact recipe when left over from scrapers or pull throughs. So, the only differences are no sodium lactate, no sugar, and no essential oil. I use EOs at %5, so that might be significant. My lye concentration, as I always use, was %33. My oils are %50 tallow, %15 coconut oil, and the rest liquid oils. Like I mentioned, I’ve made lots of soap dough with this recipe before.
As suggested in a tutorial, I left out the sugar, fragrance, and sodium lactate. I soaped with everything at 90F. I mixed to a medium/thick trace. Poured directly into bags, then vacuum sealed the bags. There was no air. Laid them on a cold metal counter. They never got over 80F
This morning they were super hard. I opened the bags and the dough was crumbly and awful. I sprained my hand trying to massage balls of it.
So, I busted out the food processor. Broke up the bricks, misted with water, and ground them up. Smooshed them into balls, wrapped in plastic wrap, and vacuum sealed again. I quit after the white and purple because it was too much work. I think the portion with the activated charcoal is a lost cause anyway, it’s even harder! Also, I’m not even sure it will work, they may be grainy. But, I’ll let them sit for a few weeks.
WHAT HAPPENED?! Oh wise and wonderful soap community. What should I do different next time?
I feel like I’m going to have to start all over to find a soap dough recipe. Maybe I can look up one of the good ones online and see if I can compare it to mine.If I'm pretending to be wise, the best platitude I've got is, "Don't fix what's not broken."
Substitute water for the FO/EO amount, and if your recipe usually makes good soap dough with the additives, don't remove the additives. Also, different colorants (even among Mica) do make harder or softer dough, so be prepared to add more water or oil to charcoal, TD, clay, and finely ground Micas, just as you would have to do to pre-disperse them and keep the trace slow.
As with all recipe changes, I'd recommend a small batch of soap dough to start with, to make sure that the water instead of FO still works as dough.
My unscientific theory: your soap was hard because the liquid content (FO and sugar) was lower, and crumbly because the sodium lactate wasn't helping it hold together. If the recipe makes a good dough without those things, you wouldn't want to add them, but if it makes a good dough with those things, I wouldn't remove them.I don’t see how mine could be so drastically different than this one. I don’t work with a lot of lard. I use tallow in everything. I just don’t understand why it made such good soap dough before and got so hard and crumbly overnight this time!
Back to the drawing board I guess.
Maybe going from lye at %33 to %30.
Then maybe also reducing tallow from %50 to %40? Increasing my avocado, castor, and RBOs?
Here is Bee’s free recipe, BTW. She also sells dough on the website.
Sorcery Soap
Ok. I’ll back up and do a small batch with sugar and SL, and increased water to equal EO removed. Do you think I should also change the ratios of hard and liquid fats?My unscientific theory: your soap was hard because the liquid content (FO and sugar) was lower, and crumbly because the sodium lactate wasn't helping it hold together. If the recipe makes a good dough without those things, you wouldn't want to add them, but if it makes a good dough with those things, I wouldn't remove them.
I would just sub water for FO for now. If that doesn't work, then maybe try Bee's recipe, rather than reinvent the wheel.Ok. I’ll back up and do a small batch with sugar and SL, and increased water to equal EO removed. Do you think I should also change the ratios of hard and liquid fats?
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