Shaving Soap - Want to Make It?

[IrishLass]

Hmm...both my son and my brother use shaving soap. The main reason I haven't tried it yet is that I don't have a proper mold for it. I was thinking about pouring the batter into a mug.

If you make this recipe, you won't necessarily need a "proper" mold since this makes what is known as a 'croap', which is somewhere between a hard puck and a soft soap. Although it's hard enough to retain it's shape quite nicely, the consistency of it remains much like pliable modeling clay which can be squished into any size and shape you desire. I often pour my hot batter into whatever mold I have available, and then once it's set up I just divide it up into portions of a specific weight and then squish one of the portions into my hubby's shave cup whenever he needs more soap. That's not top say you can't use a 'proper' mold if you want to. I've done that as well, but it's not absolutely necessary with croaps.

IL...getting me in deeper and deeper...ENABLER!

Who, me? :mrgreen:


IrishLass

 

[doriettefarm]

Thanks for the update IL. I need to make another batch of shaving croap since my testers have been begging for more. I will definitely try Lee's new recipe but I'm curious what you think makes it better than the original version.

rparrny - ditto what IL said! You don't need a mold for the croaps . . . just some parchment or wax paper so you can roll into a log then slice into pucks. If you want to put the pucks in a container, see what your local dollar store carries that might work. Mine usually stocks the plastic salsa bowls and ramekins which are the perfect size.

traderbren - get some KOH stat! You can also make liquid soap using IL's split glycerin method and it's soooo easy (http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=46114) because you don't have to babysit and cook until zapless.

 

[not_ally]

Obsidian (I think it is her, I might be mis-remembering) uses a plastic guacamole mixing bowl from the 99c store as a mold for these. The kind that look like the bottom half of a mortar and pestle, like the attached pic.

That seems like a great way to get access to the soap and lather it up w/a brush. Not that I have ever made shaving soap or used a shaving brush, but it seemed like a great idea to someone who knows nothing about the subject

Actually, after posting that I just realized that it might be more space-saving to use a mug, even if you couldn't squish the brush around as much.

 

[IrishLass]

Thanks for the update IL. I need to make another batch of shaving croap since my testers have been begging for more. I will definitely try Lee's new recipe but I'm curious what you think makes it better than the original version.

Well, I've actually never used or made his original version, so I can't really compare. All I know is that he sent me a croap made via the updated version, which takes into account the different SAP # of LotionCrafter's stearic NF that he used in it, which is a mixture of mostly palmitic acid and myristic acid with a lesser amount of stearic, vs his original stearic from a chemical company which was mostly stearic acid/stearin.

IrishLass

 

[LBussy]

Just giving this a bump because for the past week or two my son has been using a croap that Lee kindly sent to me made from the newer stearic recipe in this tutorial, and he absolutely loves it. As a testimony to how much he loves it, my hubby was only able to get 2 shaves out of it before our son tried it out and promptly confiscated it for himself. lol In case any of you are wondering what my hubby thought of his brief two shave sessions with it, he said that it's 'really good stuff' (he's not long on words, but he's very honest and always straight to the point).

Thank you IL! That means a lot to come from an experienced soaper. I have all of what .. a year and a half? under my belt so that makes me a newbie. I'd never have been as successful without you and the rest here who are so free with advice and findings.

What IL failed to mention is she would not let me send her any without sending me some back, so for about a week straight I used her soap exclusively. I was very happy to use it, I LOVED the fragrance, and it was just all in all a great experience. Her soap was very well balanced where I think my own is more crude in it's makeup. In creating the soap I wanted protection and glide and that's where I really pounded a short list of very specific characteristics. I did not try to make a "balanced" soap in any way. Is that the heart of the difference between soaps made by shavers vs soaps made by soapers for shavers? Who knows. I do know her soap earned a place in my rotation.

Yes, we wet shaving enthusiasts have a rotation more often than not. My wife does not understand. This morning I used a sadly no longer produced soap called Klar Kabinett. Probably my favorite all time veg soap including the archetypical Martin de Candre. It's got a nice rose fragrance that's only there while using the soap. I generally don't like the smell of roses particularly, but I like it in this.

Thanks for the update IL. I need to make another batch of shaving croap since my testers have been begging for more. I will definitely try Lee's new recipe but I'm curious what you think makes it better than the original version..

The easy answer is "I don't know." I have suspected for a while that the difference is the KOH vs NaOH/KOH split soap. I know straight KOH will make a soap "thirstier" than one made from or with NaOH. If one doesn't have enough water with straight KOH it will be almost sticky. Get it wet and it's heaven. I don't base this on any blind testing, careful comparisons, etc.. I just see that the soaps I really like to use are the ones that are all KOH and those I think can be tweaked use NaOH/KOH. The difference may be all in my head too.

I'm not sure if she sells or not, so I won't share the information from her (very nice!) labels. I will say her soap has 19 ingredients listed where mine has nine:

Stearic Acid, Water, Coconut Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Tallow, Lanolin, Shea Butter, Fragrance, Tetrasodium EDTA

While we both featured stearic acid, hers went a completely different way on the secondary and tertiary oils. Hers is NaOH predominant with KOH and mine is all KOH. Looking at her ingredients it's possible the soap needed NaOH to harden too. Is that why the mix is important? More testing must be done!

Well, I've actually never used or made his original version, so I can't really compare. All I know is that he sent me a croap made via the updated version, which takes into account the different SAP # of LotionCrafter's stearic NF that he used in it, which is a mixture of mostly palmitic acid and myristic acid with a lesser amount of stearic, vs his original stearic from a chemical company which was mostly stearic acid/stearin.

I posted my results testing the two side by side. There was not enough difference either way to call it.

 

[SunWolf]

Bummer, the links in the first post don't work for me. :-( Anybody have a current link?

 

[LBussy]

Bummer, the links in the first post don't work for me. :-( Anybody have a current link?

I seem to be having some site issues (thank you for letting me know). I'm on the phone with them right now.

 

[SunWolf]

Thank you, after reading the whole thread, I'm looking forward to checking out your site.

 

[Saponomancer]

I've been getting a 500 error since yesterday trying to look at this

 

[annalee2003]

Links work here for me!

Great information, LBussy. Thank you for everything.

Honestly I haven't researched shaving soap yet, only because I thought that it was a very complicated process. It looks pretty simple though, can't wait to try it out!

 

[LBussy]

Site is back up. Here are the links:

1. The Beginning
2. Sourcing Tools and Ingredients
3. Process
4. A New Wrinkle

 

[SunWolf]

Thank you so much, wonderful read, lots of info to mull over and a new soapie to make!!

 

[LBussy]

Thanks for the kind words. It's one of those things a new guy had to write down, hoping to help others who may be new to this variety of soap.

So this morning I reached for my RazoRock Lime shave soap. I always like RazoRock and expected a good shave. Something didn't like my face this morning so halfway through I washed my face off and reached for IL's soap. To say her soap saved the day is an understatement. I will have to dissect the ingredients list on the RR soap to maybe see where it went wrong.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Hey there Lee. Find any other great scents for your soap lately?I am finally ready to give it a go and want to make a couple of tins with different scents.

 

[IrishLass]

I'd never have been as successful without you and the rest here who are so free with advice and findings.

I could say the same thing about you and the rest of you crazy wet shaving dudes! lol If it weren't for all of you (and DeeAnna and Lindy, too!), I never would have tried to formulate without clay, I never would have thought to use a combo of NaOH/KOH, I never would have used actual stearic acid in my formula- and much more of it than I would ever have even dared to use, I never would have known what a croap is, and my shave formula would not have improved beyond what it used to be to what it is now...........and what it might be fairly soon, because I'm going to try making a test-batch of it with all-KOH.

What IL failed to mention is she would not let me send her any without sending me some back, so for about a week straight I used her soap exclusively. I was very happy to use it, I LOVED the fragrance, and it was just all in all a great experience. Her soap was very well balanced where I think my own is more crude in it's makeup. In creating the soap I wanted protection and glide and that's where I really pounded a short list of very specific characteristics. I did not try to make a "balanced" soap in any way. Is that the heart of the difference between soaps made by shavers vs soaps made by soapers for shavers? Who knows. I do know her soap earned a place in my rotation.

Words like that coming from an experienced, crazy straight razor-using dude like yourself who takes shaving seriously, directed towards someone like me who knows practically nothing about wet shaving and is just going off the feedback I get from my hubby, have given me happy feet and make me want to do a happy dance. I don't sell or anything (so posting my ingredients is okay with me), nor do I have any desire to take my enjoyable little hobby to the next level (running a business is not my strong suit, believe you me), but just knowing that my much-tweaked, humble little croap is not only loved by my hubby, but is also considered good enough by a serious, straight-razor, wet shaving dude to have actually earned a space in their rotation amongst their other better-known soaps, is satisfaction enough to last me a very long time indeed, and has given me a happy face to go along with my happy feet. :grin:

So this morning I reached for my RazoRock Lime shave soap. I always like RazoRock and expected a good shave. Something didn't like my face this morning so halfway through I washed my face off and reached for IL's soap. To say her soap saved the day is an understatement. I will have to dissect the ingredients list on the RR soap to maybe see where it went wrong.

That's so awesome to hear! Not that the RazoRock irritated your face, mind you (ouch!), but that my croap was able to ride in and save your day. You'll have to let us know what you think the offending ingredient might have been.

Hey there Lee. Find any other great scents for your soap lately?I am finally ready to give it a go and want to make a couple of tins with different scents.

I'm not Lee, but the croap I sent to Lee was scented with the Barbershop 1920's FO from Rustic Escentuals (which he said he loved). I must say that I highly second his opinion. It truly smells awesome and makes this lass go a little weak in the knees to smell it on her man. It's so awesome to me in fact, that I've been sneaking some of the aftershave I made with it for my hubby and have been using it as an after-shower splash on myself. Shhhhh:shh: I hope that doesn't give you the impression that it's a girly scent, mind you, because it's really not- it's just one of those scents that's made for a man, but women like it too.


IrishLass

 

[DapperDan]

Unfortunately looks like the link is still not working.

 

[LBussy]

Unfortunately looks like the link is still not working.

It is, but the server is a dog. I'm in the middle of moving a few sites that actually make me money. This one will go soon.

Hey there Lee. Find any other great scents for your soap lately?I am finally ready to give it a go and want to make a couple of tins with different scents.

I liked quite a few of the ones IL sent. I'll post my notes when I sit still for a while.

 

[IrishLass]

I've been playing with Bay (pimento racemosa) EO that I got from Mtn. Rose Herbs and the Barbershop 1920's FO from Rustic Escentuals, and they are smelling fantastic together!


IrishLass

 

[LBussy]

Hey there Lee. Find any other great scents for your soap lately?I am finally ready to give it a go and want to make a couple of tins with different scents.

IL sent me a pile of sniffs, here's what I took away:

• *Stud, Nature's Garden - Good, smells like Polo with some fruit?
• *The Perfect Man, Nature's Garden - Similar to Stud, heavier, maybe vanilla. Some pineapple maybe? Would be a nice men's bar soap.
• Salty Sailor, Daystar - Sea-breeze, light, crisp.
• Paradise, Daystar - To me this smelled like everything I don't like about Citronella unfortunately.
• Masculine Musk, Sweetcakes - Lighter musk, maybe good for soap. Cool water + musk?
• Midsummer Night, Wholesale Supplies Plus - Incense like, sandalwood, patchouli? Maybe a candle scent.
• Northwoods, Sweetcakes - Piney. No go for me.
• *Santa's Pipe, Sweetcakes - Nice tobacco. MUST like tobacco to like this one.
• *Ahoy Matey, Daystar - Soap fragrance to my nose, "Green" like an Irish Spring-ish scent + the ocean and maybe some woody scents. Not the same as, but in the same class as Sir Irisch Moos.
• *Old Spice, Oregon Trails - Floral/fruity spice, typical vanilla base. Does seem very close to the old Old Spice.
• *Barber Shop 1920's, Rustic Escentuals - Very nice, balanced, not overly powdery like some.​

Bullets are not working in lists apparently, I did what I could. The asterisks are the ones I think I will be trying.

Okay, I've migrated the website to the new server - it will not be so painfully slow anymore. I apologize to those of you who persevered, and to those who could not get in. Here are the links again so you do not have to go a-hunting:

1. The Beginning
2. Sourcing Tools and Ingredients
3. Process

 

[DapperDan]

Thanks a bunch! Can't wait to try this soap.