Shaving Soap - Want to Make It?

[Soapboiler]

I did a couple subsequent batches in Brambleberry's Column Mold, and a small silicone circular mold I bought somewhere on Amazon. Both were better than the Pringles, but I unmolded the Pringles can batch about an hour after I was done. Letting it sit and cool overnight would probably help. With the Pringles batch, I simply "washed" each puck a bit and they smoothed right out. Most of my soap is still packaged in tins however.

I was toying with the idea of using short sections of 3" PVC pipe, but wasn't satisfied with possibly using wax paper and rubber bands to secure the bottom, and questioned removal. Then, after watching the soap extruder in a <i>How It's Made</i> video, I thought about a longer section of PVC pipe, which would essentially be like the column mold, except the Brambleberry Column Mold uses corrugation and a liner to prevent adhesion. Can see trying to rig a plunger to push all that soap out of the pipe and an epic fail. OTOH, if I try it, might use short sections to gauge the adhesion before trying a longer pipe.

I think using that mix is a result of reverse-engineering other commercial shaving soaps. Certainly it would (at least in theory) make a harder soap. I'm really not a fan of real soap pucks - I like softer soap that loads quite a bit easier. So, I opted for 100% KOH up front and even though I found this formula leaves a pretty hard soap, it's still quite soluble and loads well. So, sort of the best of both worlds.

I must admit I've never tried the mix, just as many others have not tried straight KOH - we all tend to stick with what we know. It just seems simpler to do it without the hassle of using two since I know I get what I want the way it is.

I asked because some period formula books gives tallow and coconut oil for the fat, and KOH/NaOH for the caustic. One book on soap making, around 1900-ish, said that tallow made a long-lasting lather but was hard to make, whereas coconut oil made quick lather but it wasn't long lasting. Combining the two seems to give the properties of both.

I can dig up the book name, if anyone's curious. So far, none of the books have mentioned Degree 76 or higher coconut oil, but gives recommendations based on point of origin.

I'm also fascinated by KOH because until widespread production of NaOH, K2CO3 by dripping ashes was the caustic, with KOH as Pearl Ash for better quality soaps.

 

[boyago]

I was toying with the idea of using short sections of 3" PVC pipe, but wasn't satisfied with possibly using wax paper and rubber bands to secure the bottom, and questioned removal. Then, after watching the soap extruder in a <i>How It's Made</i> video, I thought about a longer section of PVC pipe, which would essentially be like the column mold, except the Brambleberry Column Mold uses corrugation and a liner to prevent adhesion. Can see trying to rig a plunger to push all that soap out of the pipe and an epic fail. OTOH, if I try it, might use short sections to gauge the adhesion before trying a longer pipe.

I use the 3" PVC to mold most of my bar soaps. If you really want to over-build a mold you could weld in Shrader valve to push the soap with air pressure like I did. This became totally irrelevant after I figured out to just properly grease my molds and push the soap with soup cans. Also no idea why it took someone here to mention the caps you can get anywhere they sell the 3" pipe but I ditched the tape and wax paper method when it became an embarrassing obvious solution. I still use the freezer paper since the caps are rubber.
The shaving soaps mostly discussed here and the ones I make are too soft really for pushing and soft enough that I think the edges might drag under the air and bow/tear the soap on it's way out of the PVC. This hasn't been a problem really since I've mostly made mine for personal use and when I git them or show them off I send them off in canning jars. If you went with a harder soap you could pull it off.

ETA: on second thought I bet the air would work on the soft soap.
ETAA: freezer paper not wax.

 

[LBussy]

Look for the toilet flanges when you buy parts and pieces again. They make a nice stand when used as a cap. They are not capable of the same pressure, but if you use a liner and just push you don't need it.

I found a few general editing errors.

Reading that I know what I wanted to say but I am not quite sure what the hell came out. I'll have a look at that after coffee. I need to update parts to account for the different Stearic Acid we have available to us.

 

[Soapboiler]

I was poking about on the web for soap mold suggestions, and found this DIY round mold suggestion on Lowe's web site:

http://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/woodworking-and-crafts/easy-to-make-soap-molds/project

Click on Round Soap Mold to open the instructions.

Basically it's what's been discussed here, but with the added suggestion of lining the inside of the pipe with parchment paper to prevent sticking. That looks interesting.

BTW, if I was going to do much of this, a DIY humongous test-tube style rack, with a wide base, might work to hold the forms during filling.

 

[LBussy]

I was poking about on the web for soap mold suggestions, and found this DIY round mold suggestion on Lowe's web site:

I think I've heard that parchment paper wrinkles some as it absorbs some moisture ... not sure about that.

Here's what I put my round molds in, since I have literally tons of them:

http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to/fuse-fireworks-mortar-racks.asp

 

[nix]

Superfat vs lye discount the difference to know

http://curious-soapmaker.com/superfat-vs-lye-discount.html

How to calculate the hot process superfat

http://curious-soapmaker.com/how-to-calculate-the-hot-process-superfat.html

 

[LBussy]

Superfat vs lye discount the difference to know

Yes, and that's exactly what I proved out. I'm not necessarily removing exactly 5% of the sapponifiable oils, but the end result is very nearly the same with much easier math. If I start with the SAP figured for the total batch at 5% super fat/lye discount, and I end with all the fat that was called for in the recipe back in the pot, it's still 5% super fat/ lye discount.

The only real difference in doing what I'll call the "hard math" versus the easy way I've described, is the possibility that my super fat could be comprised of a bit of my base oils. With that potential being low (1%) and with the very real fact that CO and Tallow are more easily sapponifiable, I'm willing to "risk it."

Not really sure what you're not understanding. But, I get no percentage royalty from people believing/understanding me. Do what you will. Perhaps rather than making soap you're simply here to argue about it. If so I suggest you start in the beginners area.

 

[boyago]

I think I've heard that parchment paper wrinkles some as it absorbs some moisture ... not sure about that.

Here's what I put my round molds in, since I have literally tons of them:

http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to/fuse-fireworks-mortar-racks.asp

Good point and I miss spoke. I use freezer paper. The wax on wax paper can heat and the wax can melt and stick to the mold.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Okay, chaps - let's keep things civil.

When it comes to the superfat (by which I mean added fats after the cook in HP, not a lye discount) there are different views which, at the end of the day, are essentially much of a muchness. Certainly not enough to warrant lowering our standards of civility. Veiled attacks dressed up as advice are most certainly included in that.

 

[LBussy]

Good point and I miss spoke. I use freezer paper. The wax on wax paper can heat and the wax can melt and stick to the mold.

I've only used freezer paper a few times while I've been experimenting with different mold sizes. I really like the silicone molds, but freezer paper will work with everything. Didn't realize that about waxed paper but it makes sense.

 

[kchaystack]

Don't confuse wax paper and parchment paper. They may look very similar, but parchment is meant to deal with high heat (it is impregnated with silicone). I have used this several times and not really had a problem with it. But YMMV.

I agree wax paper is not a good idea.

 

[LBussy]

So parchment is okay as well? I thought I had read somewhere it wrinkled but I could definitely be remembering that wrong.

 

[Seawolfe]

Parchment IS ok to use, I have used it successfully, and it DOES wrinkle a little if you're molding a "wet" soap. I wouldn't hesitate to use it for HP if that's what I had on hand.

 

[LBussy]

Parchment IS ok to use, I have used it successfully, and it DOES wrinkle a little if you're molding a "wet" soap. I wouldn't hesitate to use it for HP if that's what I had on hand.

Thank you for the clarification. Good to know I was not imagining things ... about that anyway.

 

[reinbeau]

So parchment is okay as well? I thought I had read somewhere it wrinkled but I could definitely be remembering that wrong.

Parchment does wrinkle. It just doesn't stick like waxed paper will.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Hey Lee, I fell down the rabbit hole. Been reading and trying to learn.

Question for you. So with the new "stearic recipe" it looks like you said we could use the original and just reduce the superfat to around 2.5%. So does that mean we'd want around 11g each of lanolin and shea?

 

[LBussy]

That might work. Send me your email though and I'll send you a draft of the follow-up article. I've got a brand-new recipe there, well, a reformulated one for the new stearic.

 

[IrishLass]

Just giving this a bump because for the past week or two my son has been using a croap that Lee kindly sent to me made from the newer stearic recipe in this tutorial, and he absolutely loves it. As a testimony to how much he loves it, my hubby was only able to get 2 shaves out of it before our son tried it out and promptly confiscated it for himself. lol In case any of you are wondering what my hubby thought of his brief two shave sessions with it, he said that it's 'really good stuff' (he's not long on words, but he's very honest and always straight to the point).

So...for all of those wanting to try your hand at making shave soap- this tutorial is a most excellent place to start. I myself will be making a batch of it here pretty soon in order to keep my son in facial suds once Lee's croap runs out. lol


IrishLass

 

[rparrny]

So...for all of those wanting to try your hand at making shave soap- this tutorial is a most excellent place to start. I myself will be making a batch of it here pretty soon in order to keep my son in facial suds once Lee's croap runs out. lol
IrishLass

Hmm...both my son and my brother use shaving soap. The main reason I haven't tried it yet is that I don't have a proper mold for it. I was thinking about pouring the batter into a mug.
IL...getting me in deeper and deeper...ENABLER!

 

[traderbren]

I've been kicking around a shaving soap. I finally bought the stearic. Only thing left is the KOH, and then I'm on it!