Sephera, for what it is worth, when you are plugging your oils and fats into your chosen soap calculator look at the "cleansing" number and the "conditioning" number. You want the cleansing number to be LOW. The calculators I've seen have a recommendation between 12 - 29. For my skin, that is far too high. "Cleansing" is another name for "stripping." A cleansing number of zero will get you clean. It is soap. That is what it is meant to do. I keep my cleansing number at around 10. I SF at 5% now that I am comfortable with the soap making process and don't worry about making lye-heavy soaps. When I first started, I did an 8% SF for extra "insurance" against mistakes.
While you are aiming for a low cleansing number, you should aim for a high conditioning number. Anything in the higher range is going to give you creamy, rich feeling lather, but it doesn't have many bubbles. There is a lotion-type feel to the lather (and my preferred lather type). I have no problems rinsing fully and the soaps I've made make my skin feel normal instead of dry, tight, painful and itchy. That's a beautiful feeling when you've spent 15 years feeling like you're walking around in a suit two sizes too small and cannot get one that fits correctly.
The numbers aren't exact; however, they'll give you an idea of how the soap will perform. If I put a formula together and the cleansing number is an 18, it's an automatic NO for me. I absolutely will not waste my time and resources on something that will have a high probability of making my skin feel two sizes too small. I have gone as high as 15 in the cleansing number, and have noticed I need to add lotion or body butter afterwards. My friends have loved those soaps with no one having issues. I just won't make them anymore unless specifically asked to, because I don't want to make soap that I cannot use myself.
While you are aiming for a low cleansing number, you should aim for a high conditioning number. Anything in the higher range is going to give you creamy, rich feeling lather, but it doesn't have many bubbles. There is a lotion-type feel to the lather (and my preferred lather type). I have no problems rinsing fully and the soaps I've made make my skin feel normal instead of dry, tight, painful and itchy. That's a beautiful feeling when you've spent 15 years feeling like you're walking around in a suit two sizes too small and cannot get one that fits correctly.
The numbers aren't exact; however, they'll give you an idea of how the soap will perform. If I put a formula together and the cleansing number is an 18, it's an automatic NO for me. I absolutely will not waste my time and resources on something that will have a high probability of making my skin feel two sizes too small. I have gone as high as 15 in the cleansing number, and have noticed I need to add lotion or body butter afterwards. My friends have loved those soaps with no one having issues. I just won't make them anymore unless specifically asked to, because I don't want to make soap that I cannot use myself.
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