Zany's no slime castile

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Cee you are amazing. Ahhh! The upcoming baby of the family will be very delighted. Errr, I mean my sister. Sooo lovin' this. Will buy more POO and make some more for the baby... :tub:
Ganda! I'm curious to know how this cures where you are..

@Zany_in_CO have you done any testing regarding DOS? Or your Castiles don't get em at all, hence no need for testing lol

My Castiles without the faux seawater are looking yellow.... While the one made with your recipe, although I used the one with coconut and castor, is older and has no sign of DOS.
 
@Zany_in_CO have you done any testing regarding DOS? Or your Castiles don't get em at all, hence no need for testing lol
Sorry to tell you... I never get DOS. I don't worry about it. Actually I've never seen so much discussion about DOS on any other group or forum as there is on SMF. VERY peculiar. I can't imagine why SMF has that distinction, but it does. It's a head-scratcher. I wonder "why?" every time the subject comes up. :smallshrug:
 
Lol can't say, I'm not a member anywhere else. So far, only my Castile has it, and the HP one more than the CP.

I better talk about it elsewhere, let's not go off topic from your recipe.

I'll just repeat though, that the Castile I made using the faux seawater, although it has coconut and castor, has no sign of DOS 7mos down.
 
I'll just repeat though, that the Castile I made using the faux seawater, although it has coconut and castor, has no sign of DOS 7mos down.
It must be Zany magic! LOL
Smack Laugh.gif

I guess maybe some of us SMF folks as well as Kevin Dunn as well as a host of large scale soap makers both modern and historic are just not enough in the know to avoid rancidity. Lucky you, Zany!
I meant no offense, @DeeAnna. It truly is something I've wondered about ever first joining SMF. I wish I knew enough about it to figure it out, but I don't.

I almost always use antioxidants, ROE & vitamin E; I tend to use full water rather than discounting water unless I feel a need to do that or if I'm making a customer's recipe; I always take temps (Old School here, I know), that's about all I can think of, except I don't get soda ash either -- but there I do cover my batches with 4-ply mylar and my wood mold has a top that goes on top of the mylar. Maybe it's the Colorado climate? Maybe the water (I use tap water)?
 
I know you didn't mean any offense, Zany. But the discussion comes up a lot because the problem happens to a lot of people. Again, lucky you that you've never had to deal with it.

It's not like your soap is somehow immune or utterly exempt from rancidity, however. From what you shared in your last post, it's just that you've taken sufficient steps to control the problem. So maybe the better way to put it is you've been fortunate enough to not encounter rancidity in your soap because you use antioxidants.
 
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Thank you Zany for sharing the recipe.

So this is my first castile soap using your recipe. I have tried the recipe twice for 100% OO. First one by using a kind of salt in the kitchen (I don't know what to call it in English), which accelerate trace even with 100% OO, so smooth and quick that it harden so fast on the same day. Second one by using table salt (refined salt) and there were no accelerate things going. The batter was so soft until the next day and I heated it inside the crockpot to boost saponification.

After this two experiment, I conclude there are something in the first salt which contribute to accelerate trace, boost saponification and harden the soap. Then I can sure the first salt was sea salt equivalent, which still contain a amount of impurities or mineral which help this recipe. While the second salt (refined) which is nearly pure NaCl failed this recipe.
 
Can I twist this recipe to boost curing time in multiple oils recipe? I mean if I use not only olive oil, but apply to 40:60 SAT:UNSAT formula, can it still be beneficial to have harder soap bar faster? I hope so, as I just made such formula soap with some green tea and much clay in it. Looks great. Have to wait it to cure.
 
Can I twist this recipe to boost curing time in multiple oils recipe? I mean if I use not only olive oil, but apply to 40:60 SAT:UNSAT formula, can it still be beneficial to have harder soap bar faster? I hope so, as I just made such formula soap with some green tea and much clay in it. Looks great. Have to wait it to cure.

Nothing cuts curing time. Some require more than others. I try to cure my soaps at least 6 weeks and linger for some.
 
Can I twist this recipe to boost curing time in multiple oils recipe? I mean if I use not only olive oil, but apply to 40:60 SAT:UNSAT formula, can it still be beneficial to have harder soap bar faster? I hope so, as I just made such formula soap with some green tea and much clay in it.
Sorry, Fiut, it's not likely due to the very specific water to lye ratio and 0% SF to reduce the slime created by an Olive Oil bar. IMHO, a 40:60 SAT:UNSAT formula doesn't need that kind of help to produce good results. I also would expect the addition of clay to be problematic with the water discount in this formula.

Remember, the first rule of soap making is PATIENCE. :)
 
Sorry, Fiut, it's not likely due to the very specific water to lye ratio and 0% SF to reduce the slime created by an Olive Oil bar. IMHO, a 40:60 SAT:UNSAT formula doesn't need that kind of help to produce good results. I also would expect the addition of clay to be problematic with the water discount in this formula.

Remember, the first rule of soap making is PATIENCE. :)
Thank you very much! I'm trying to be patient :) I just wonder does salt and soda do something special for soaping in general. Not only in this recipe, but in generic soap formula.
 
For those who have made Zany’s faux seawater , is it correct that the lye water stays cloudy ? The FS was clear , I added the Sodium Hydroxide ( tiny balls ) and the water remained cloudy with little bits in it . I used it any way because it was first attempt, so I was expecting trial and error
 
@Fiut I tried that.. Using this faux seawater with other soft oils and I did not notice a very big difference in hardness, and for sure not in cure time. There's a thread about that somewhere as I'm not the only one who tried it.

Salt is used in general to harden up your soap. It's not what makes it hard, but it helps when unmolding. Here's a good read on that.
For those who have made Zany’s faux seawater , is it correct that the lye water stays cloudy ? The FS was clear , I added the Sodium Hydroxide ( tiny balls ) and the water remained cloudy with little bits in it . I used it any way because it was first attempt, so I was expecting trial and error
Mine was slightly cloudy but no lil bits of anything were left before pouring into my oils. Could it be you needed to dissolve all the solid stuff more? Salt, baking soda, lye pearls?
 
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@Fiut I tried that.. Using this faux seawater with other soft oils and I did not notice a very big difference in hardness, and for sure not in cure time. There's a thread about that somewhere as I'm not the only one who tried it.

Salt is used in general to harden up your soap. It's not what makes it hard, but it helps when unmolding. Here's a good read on that.

Mine was slightly cloudy but no lil bits of anything were left before pouring into my oils. Could it be you needed to dissolve all the solid stuff more? Salt, baking soda, lye pearls?
That might be the case . I made the FS a few weeks ago and put it in the fridge . Should have put it through a strainer because I left it quite a while to dissolve . Thanks
 
For those who have made Zany’s faux seawater , is it correct that the lye water stays cloudy ? The FS was clear , I added the Sodium Hydroxide ( tiny balls ) and the water remained cloudy with little bits in it . I used it any way because it was first attempt, so I was expecting trial and error
Some have reported cloudy lye water or precipitates using sea salt. This is my post about it, and there were other posts noting the unusual lye water before me. I strained my lye water before I added it.
 
Some have reported cloudy lye water or precipitates using sea salt. This is my post about it, and there were other posts noting the unusual lye water before me. I strained my lye water before I added it.
I think straining might have been a better idea . I wasn’t sure what the little white bits were . I am hoping they were bits of the bicarbonate reappearing , not sodium hydroxide that refused to dissolve . Also perhaps it is better to use room temp FS , rather than straight from fridge, as maybe it means you have to wait longer for the sodium crystals to dissolve . Maybe impatient me was not very productive. Any way , I could take them out of their individual moulds after 8 hours . I think there are tiny black bits that may be from the inexpensive EVOO but in general , I am pleased .
 
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I think straining might have been a better idea . I wasn’t sure what the little white bits were . I am hoping they were bits of the bicarbonate reappearing , not sodium hydroxide that refused to dissolve . Also perhaps it is better to use room temp FS , rather than straight from fridge, as maybe it means you have to wait longer for the sodium crystals to dissolve . Maybe impatient me was not very productive. Any way , I could take them out of their individual moulds after 8 hours . I think there are tiny black bits that may be from the inexpensive EVOO but in general , I am pleased .
I’m happy to hear it worked. You shouldn’t need to keep the faux seawater in the frig. The higher temps out of the frig will make it easier to keep the salts dissolved. I *think* the precipitates are a carbonate of some sort and if that’s right, they shouldn’t affect the soap any more than adding a tiny bit of any other fine solid would.
 
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