What's going on with my lotion bars?

[Feelin' Soapy]

They're smooth and lovely when freshly made, but after a few months some of the bars develop this bumpy surface. Are my oils separating over time? Any idea what's happening? @Zing ? (Pic on left is freshly made bar. On right is about 7 months old. Ignore color from lighting.)

Here's my recipe (rounded to nearest percent):
34% beeswax
33% mango butter
16% coconut oil
8% meadowfoam oil
8% apricot kernel oil
(I also add arrowroot powder, FO or EO, and mica)

 

[AliOop]

That looks like fat bloom to me, although I've not seen that with mango butter, normally just cocoa butter.

 

[Feelin' Soapy]

Thanks, @AliOop . Can I assume it's just cosmetic? And is there anything I can do to prevent it?
I've been re-melting the bars which does fix it (at least until it may "bloom" again) but that's kind of a nuisance.

 

[pjknight]

from what I understand, your bar turned grainy due to acids cooling and not congealing at the same rate. I read that you can stir the oil after its mixed up and take it to trace slowly to allow all the acids to mix together ( just like soap where it leaves trace marks on top), then pour into molds. Hope this helps.

 

[AliOop]

Thanks, @AliOop . Can I assume it's just cosmetic? And is there anything I can do to prevent it?
I've been re-melting the bars which does fix it (at least until it may "bloom" again) but that's kind of a nuisance.

I'm sorry that I somehow missed this. Yes, "fat bloom" is just cosmetic. You can remelt it and cool it quickly, but if it goes through any significant temperature changes, the bloom may reappear.

My understanding is that there are products that help eliminate this, but I've never worked with them - sorry!

 

[lsg]

I'm sorry that I somehow missed this. Yes, "fat bloom" is just cosmetic. You can remelt it and cool it quickly, but if it goes through any significant temperature changes, the bloom may reappear.

My understanding is that there are products that help eliminate this, but I've never worked with them - sorry!

Crafter's Choice has a product called Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive.

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[Feelin' Soapy]

I went ahead and re-melted all my bars. Here's hoping they stay smooth at least through holiday season!

Thanks, @lsg. I'd never heard of this product before.

 

[pjknight]

What exactly is fat bloom? I've never heard of it before, and I'm trying to learn all I can about lotion bars, (anhydrous) because I have had a problem with grainy bars. I had read (Humblebee and me) that when making bars, take the oils slowly down in temperature to a trace where you can see trace on top of the recipe, just like in soap, and that should prevent the bars from getting grainy. However, what I don't understand is how do you pour it when its in trace, or do you reheat it up to just pourable? And if it went to trace, will the fats continue to congeal together so they don't go grainy, if you have to reheat to pour?? Hope this makes sense!!

 

[AliOop]

Crafter's Choice has a product called Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive.

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Yes, that's the one I was thinking of - thank you!

What exactly is fat bloom?

Here is an article about "chocolate bloom" that describes what it is and how it happens.

However, what I don't understand is how do you pour it when its in trace, or do you reheat it up to just pourable? And if it went to trace, will the fats continue to congeal together so they don't go grainy, if you have to reheat to pour?? Hope this makes sense!!

I actually pour while everything is still pretty hot, but then cool it off very quickly by putting it in the freezer. That works best for me.

 

[pjknight]

Yes, that's the one I was thinking of - thank you!


Here is an article about "chocolate bloom" that describes what it is and how it happens.


I actually pour while everything is still pretty hot, but then cool it off very quickly by putting it in the freezer. That works best for me.

so you don't take it to trace?

 

[pjknight]

Yes, that's the one I was thinking of - thank you!


Here is an article about "chocolate bloom" that describes what it is and how it happens.


I actually pour while everything is still pretty hot, but then cool it off very quickly by putting it in the freezer. That works best for me.

so you don't take it to trace to make sure the product doesn't go grainy? Is that the norm or just the way you do it?

 

[bookworm42]

@pjknight For me, once everything is melted and mixed I just pour into my molds and let it cool on the counter. Once it's opaque I put it in the fridge or freezer to finish it off and help me unmold it. No graininess that I've noticed. I have gotten fat blooms though but I blame the temperature fluctuations of my house for that.

What ingredients are you using? Any powder additives? Maybe they are the cause of the graininess.

 

[cmzaha]

Crafter's Choice has a product called Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive.

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And this is what irritates me with Wholesale Supplies Plus. Crafter's Choice Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive sells for $32.15 lb and is Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax. This is the same as Cera Bellini which sells for $54.23 per lb on their website.

 

[Feelin' Soapy]

I've been reading about the additive that @lsg and @AliOop mentioned -- Cera Bellina. It's a form of beeswax and very expensive. I'm unclear how to use it.

In a typical lotion bar formula of 1/3 each beeswax, butter, and liquid oil, would I need to substitute it for all the beeswax? Or a some percentage of the beeswax or the butters? Or ???

 

[AliOop]

so you don't take it to trace to make sure the product doesn't go grainy? Is that the norm or just the way you do it?

I've not heard of taking it to trace until you provided that quote from Marie. She generally gives good advice, but it sounds like it's not working for you - sorry. I've always done it the way that I described.

@cmzaha I didn't know those were the same items - thank you!!

 

[pjknight]

@pjknight For me, once everything is melted and mixed I just pour into my molds and let it cool on the counter. Once it's opaque I put it in the fridge or freezer to finish it off and help me unmold it. No graininess that I've noticed. I have gotten fat blooms though but I blame the temperature fluctuations of my house for that.

What ingredients are you using? Any powder additives? Maybe they are the cause of the graininess.

 

[pjknight]

I did add kaolin claly. It didn't become grainy until 6 months later. I sold 6 bars, and didn't realize they were gainy until after the sale... customer didnt contact me, I noticed it myself as I only had one tube left, so I just don't want that to happen again. I made a batch using the trace method, however, it seems too soft... Im going to remake it and add more beeswax but am unsure how much to add, my recipe is 16 ounces. Any idea?

 

[gunnyblu]

So if cooling to quickly will cause bloom, could you set it in a cooler to keep it from cooling to quickly?

 

[AliOop]

So if cooling to quickly will cause bloom, could you set it in a cooler to keep it from cooling to quickly?

My understanding is that improper tempering and either heat or temperature changes - not speed of cooling - is the cause of fat bloom. Sugar bloom can look similar and is caused by moisture.

In contrast, cooling too slowly - not too quickly - can cause graininess. You can help to prevent this by cooling the butter quickly in the fridge or freezer. But if the butter is later exposed to temperature fluctuations, the graininess will appear unless you use a product such as Cera Bellina to prevent this.

@Feelin' Soapy the prior post by @cmzaha noted that Cera Bellina is available from WSP under a different name and for a lower price. I've not used it before, but the usage rate is listed at 5%.

 

[Tammyfarms]

I've been reading about the additive that @lsg and @AliOop mentioned -- Cera Bellina. It's a form of beeswax and very expensive. I'm unclear how to use it.

In a typical lotion bar formula of 1/3 each beeswax, butter, and liquid oil, would I need to substitute it for all the beeswax? Or a some percentage of the beeswax or the butters? Or ???

I have not used this product and I try to not reply when I don’t have first hand knowledge. Since no one else has replied I’m giving it a shot.
I looked at the questions and answers on WSP and it appears that this is not a full replacement for beeswax. You would still use beeswax and replace part of it with one of these products. Suggestions range for how much of a replacement.
Cera Bellina is mentioned in the comments as being a similar product from a different supplier and WSP said that is the reason for the price difference.
It’s a lot to go through but I do recommend reading the questions and answers. Make sure to check who answered a question as the answers from WSP staff often vary from those of users. I hope this helps.