Today’s soap thing is a CP that’s stuck in gel mode

[user 46149]

Hi there,

I’m a new soaper and I could really get into this! I can’t say I was a massive science fan at school, but this I like.

I’ve been checking out posts on the soap gelIing and when it happens and when it doesn’t. But I’m still not sure what’s happening with this second batch I’ve made. I’ll post the recipe below, but I made it on Thursday night which is by now a day and a half ago. When I poured it, it was a lovely creamy green colour. I did not insulate it. I forgot to. The next day it was quite warm and dark translucent green. It’s cool, but the same colour this afternoon with a slight crust on top and wobbles like jelly when I shake it. What’s going on with it? Shall I leave it or put it back in the bowl and stick blend it. Or something else? I regret not insulating it and wonder if this is the problem, it happened to be a very warm day in London (UK).

Here’s my recipe:

820g Olive oil
150g Coconut oil
30g castor oil
380g water
134g lye crystals
28g fragrance oil
6g moringa powder

Any feedback is much appreciated.
Thank you!
Ezzie

 

[lsg]

No picture shows up when I click on the "View Attachment." It sounds like the soap may have separated. You can try to save it by re-batching.

 

[user 46149]

No picture shows up when I click on the "View Attachment." It sounds like the soap may have separated. You can try to save it by re-batching.

Ahh I think you might be right. Thank you. Due to not having insulated it perhaps? I’ve tried reposting the image here.

 

[SPowers]

I'm really new as well but the water/lye ratio looks high to me... could that be a part of it?

 

[user 46149]

I'm really new as well but the water/lye ratio looks high to me... could that be a part of it?

Hiya I don't know. I used soapcalc and this is what it calculated. It smells so good as well, haha! I was aiming for a lemon vanilla moringa hand and body soap.

 

[Misschief]

SPowers is right. Your Lye solution strength is 26%; I usually soap at about 33%. Your recipe is also a high olive oil soap. I would give it more time. If all else fails, you'll have a candidate for rebatching.

For what it's worth, insulating the soap isn't really necessary, depending on the look you're going for. Very few of my soaps go through gel.

 

[Obsidian]

Is the soap still warm? If so, try putting it in the fridge to cool it.
If its cool and still jiggly, then I would rebatch.

 

[DeeAnna]

I agree that the water:lye ratio is a lot of water. A quick suggestion without getting into a lot of the whys and wherefores -- if you start using the recipe calculator at Soapmaking Recipe Builder & Lye Calculator, it will do a better job for you as far as calculating recipes with a more reasonable amount of water.

 

[user 46149]

Thanks all! Good call, thanks @SPowers ! I had soapcalc.com set to the default, 'Water as % to oils' - 38. Will choose 'Lye concentration' and set to 33% instead for my next batch. I'd like to get the hang of high concentration olive oil soaps. That's my current goal. Also @Misschief a point in the right direction to some rebatching instructions for this kind of issue, please, would be much appreciated. No worries if you have other stuff on though.

 

[user 46149]

I agree that the water:lye ratio is a lot of water. A quick suggestion without getting into a lot of the whys and wherefores -- if you start using the recipe calculator at Soapmaking Recipe Builder & Lye Calculator, it will do a better job for you as far as calculating recipes with a more reasonable amount of water.

Thanks I'll check this guy out.

 

[earlene]

I'd let it sit for a few days and just watch it. Besides the high water, it's also got a high olive oil content. And your mold may also inhibit water loss due to the density of the plastic. IF your lye was NaOH, which I expect it was, that recipe will take longer to set up than you may expect. I once used a similar type container for a mold with a high water Castile soap (100% olive oil) and it took several days before it was ready to unmold and cut. But firm up it did and the soap was just fine for those who like high olive oil soaps (not all do.)

PS: I have no trouble viewing your images.

 

[user 46149]

I'd let it sit for a few days and just watch it. Besides the high water, it's also got a high olive oil content. And your mold may also inhibit water loss due to the density of the plastic. IF your lye was NaOH, which I expect it was, that recipe will take longer to set up than you may expect. I once used a similar type container for a mold with a high water Castile soap (100% olive oil) and it took several days before it was ready to unmold and cut. But firm up it did and the soap was just fine for those who like high olive oil soaps (not all do.)

PS: I have no trouble viewing your images.

The lye was NaOH, yes. I'm starting soaping on a shoestring so got these tupperware containers from the Pound Store (Dollar Tree). Good to know the limitations and why wood containers seem to be so popular. Thanks for sharing your experience, I think I will, leave it. See what happens. And I think it has to set to be able to be rebatched, right? My next project is a hemp milk and maca powder castille soap.

 

[earlene]

Shoestring soap mould ideas:

I bought this used wooden file box at a second-hand store (very low price) and it works great for a small batch, which makes four bars of soap:

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/media/cheap-molds-2016september.1159/
Even the cardboard box lined with freezer paper (or in the UK, greaseproof baking parchment, I think it's called) works quite well.

If I have misnamed what is used in the UK, hopefully someone from the UK will come along and correct me.

 

[GGMA0317]

High content olive oil soap is one of the easiest soaps to make. It's so well behaved I wouldn't hesitate to make 10-20 lbs at once! But I only make mine with essential oils that behave as well. So be sure to test all your additives. I'd offer advice on the gel soap but you would have to know how to make LS so maybe another time

 

[SPowers]

SPowers is right. Your Lye solution strength is 26%; I usually soap at about 33%. Your recipe is also a high olive oil soap. I would give it more time. If all else fails, you'll have a candidate for rebatching.

For what it's worth, insulating the soap isn't really necessary, depending on the look you're going for. Very few of my soaps go through gel.

I don't mean to hijack the thread but when I started my quest into soaping, I watched a lot of videos by Soap Queen (Brambleberry) and she always insulated the loaf. I've only done 3 batches so for and batches 2 & 3 both have glycerin rivers which I'm told is caused by 1. too much water, and 2. insulating. I'm working on the water thing but what is the purpose (or is there one) of putting through gel phase? I've since read that many people don't bother at all. It is all very confusing in the beginning - hopefully it gets easier after some time passes.

 

[Misschief]

I don't mean to hijack the thread but when I started my quest into soaping, I watched a lot of videos by Soap Queen (Brambleberry) and she always insulated the loaf. I've only done 3 batches so for and batches 2 & 3 both have glycerin rivers which I'm told is caused by 1. too much water, and 2. insulating. I'm working on the water thing but what is the purpose (or is there one) of putting through gel phase? I've since read that many people don't bother at all. It is all very confusing in the beginning - hopefully it gets easier after some time passes.

Gelling your soap can make colours pop more and could create a harder soap. I rarely gel my soaps but I do have a couple of wooden boxes I use to insulate most batches, depending on the mold I'm using. Occasionally, I will get partial gel and then I'll force gel it in the oven to see if I can even out the gelled circle.

 

[SPowers]

Gelling your soap can make colours pop more and could create a harder soap. I rarely gel my soaps but I do have a couple of wooden boxes I use to insulate most batches, depending on the mold I'm using. Occasionally, I will get partial gel and then I'll force gel it in the oven to see if I can even out the gelled circle.

thank you!

 

[KiwiMoose]

@Ezzie Roller - I reckon you might be fine after about 5-7 days in the mold. I also suggest uncovering it to allow some of the moisture to evaporate. As stated, it's a high OO and high water soap so it will be soft and take a long time to cure. It will possibly always be a bit 'smooshy' unless you want to wait over a year for a better cure.

 

[user 46149]

High content olive oil soap is one of the easiest soaps to make. It's so well behaved I wouldn't hesitate to make 10-20 lbs at once! But I only make mine with essential oils that behave as well. So be sure to test all your additives. I'd offer advice on the gel soap but you would have to know how to make LS so maybe another time

It’s so easy yet I messed it up aaargh! Would you like to say more about ‘LS’ or is that a red herring?

 

[user 46149]

@Ezzie Roller - I reckon you might be fine after about 5-7 days in the mold. I also suggest uncovering it to allow some of the moisture to evaporate. As stated, it's a high OO and high water soap so it will be soft and take a long time to cure. It will possibly always be a bit 'smooshy' unless you want to wait over a year for a better cure.

Hi thanks for your thoughts. I just checked it and it’s still quite soft. I think it might take a long, long time to become useable. What could I do with it? It’s too soft to grate as I’ve seen in the videos. Or is it possible to rebatch soft soap? I don’t have a crock pot.