Substitute for tallow?

[IrishLass]

AdoptaPitBull... What do you mean DOS?

Not AdoptaPitBull, but DOS, which is short for "Dreaded Orange Spots', is a common possibility with certain oils that are high in linoleic acid in soapmaking if too much are used in ones formula.

In appearance, a DOSsed soap is one that looks like it has come down with a case of orange-colored measles. It usually occurrs when too much of high linoleic acid oils are used in ones' formula, or if one used rancid oils in their formula. If you live in a climate with high humidity, it increases the chance of DOS.

What happens is this: the linoliec acid in the oil, which is very sensitive to heat and light, starts to break down and go rancid and show up as orange spots in your soap. It usually shows up about a month or more into cure. Canola oil, as well as soybean oil are both high in linoleic and are notorious DOSers in soap. They can be used successfully in soap, but you need to be savvy with them in terms of not going overboard with their usage amounts. Because of this problem, certain suppliers sell canola oil that is high in oleic acid as opposed to linoleic acid (the same for sunflower oil, too).

I am getting a little confused.. Sorry guys But what you are saying is... Instead of tallow I can buy shortening, whether it is Beef or PIg doesn't matter, and use that in place of the tallow.. Do I melt it down and use the exact weight as I would use for the tallow?

Yes, and yes, but make sure to run the recipe through a good lye calculator to get the correct amount of lye, because the lye amount will be different.

I think I am going to give it a try today.. Another question.. I know that the basic soap has to try for like 4-6 weeks before you can package it.. BUT does the basic soap have to try the whole 4-6 weeks BEFORE you can use it for handmilled soap?

No- as long as the soap does not 'zap', you can use it for handmilling fresh out of the mold if you like.



IrishLass

 

[goldieloxj95]

Ok, so this is my plan (let me know if I am doing it wrong please)... I am going to go buy some cheap shortening instead of making my own tallow. I will melt the shortening down to a liquid and measure it accordingly. I am going to use the recipe for the basic soap that I have and make sure that the lye is at the exact ratio it should be.

Then after this sets.. I can handmill it and add what I like to the soap and then let this bar cure for about 4-6 weeks before packaging..

*Should I put the finished soap out in a storage shed to dry or keep it in the cool house?

*What is Zap?

*How do I know that the soap turned out ok?

Thank you for all the information You are terrific

 

[krissy]

Ok, so this is my plan (let me know if I am doing it wrong please)... I am going to go buy some cheap shortening instead of making my own tallow. I will melt the shortening down to a liquid and measure it accordingly. I am going to use the recipe for the basic soap that I have and make sure that the lye is at the exact ratio it should be.

Then after this sets.. I can handmill it and add what I like to the soap and then let this bar cure for about 4-6 weeks before packaging..

*Should I put the finished soap out in a storage shed to dry or keep it in the cool house?

*What is Zap?

*How do I know that the soap turned out ok?

Thank you for all the information You are terrific

you skipped running your new recipe through a soap calc. you absolutely HAVE to do that otherwise you could end up with a lye heavy batch.

you can store your soap in a closet, extra bedroom etc.

zap is when you touch your tongue tip to an inside cut of a bar and if you get a tingle/burning "zap" then it is still working on saponifying or it is lye heavy. leave it for a week and zap test again.

you will know your soap turned out ok once you have zap tested and inspected it. if there are no little white pockets in your soap and it doesn't zap, then you are good to go. you can use it right away but it will be very soft and not at it's best. if you wait 4 weeks it will be much better.
since you and hand milling (why are you going to do that?) you can grate up your soap and add whatever you intend once the soap no longer zaps.

 

[goldieloxj95]

Zap: so, I am supposed to cut into my new bars of soap each week to test them?

Handmilling: I was going to make a basic soap, then use handmilling (because all the books I have been reading said this was the best way) to make different batches of soap with different ingreadients..?..

What is Soap Calc? All this terminology is confusing me

Could you give me some instructions that you think I should follow?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[adoptapitbull]

Zap: so, I am supposed to cut into my new bars of soap each week to test them?

Handmilling: I was going to make a basic soap, then use handmilling (because all the books I have been reading said this was the best way) to make different batches of soap with different ingreadients..?..

What is Soap Calc? All this terminology is confusing me

Could you give me some instructions that you think I should follow?

Thanks for all your help!

You'll want to cut the loaf into bars as soon as they are hard enough to do so. Usually 24-48 hours is long enough to harden up. Could be more, could be less. Don't panic!

Why do you want to hand mill? It's a lot of work! If you've made a great batch, then there is no need. Reserve handmilling and rebatching for soaps that have an ugly color, lack scent, or that are not "pretty".

Soap Calc is the way to figure out how much lye is needed for your oils. You cannot just substitute tallow for olive oil or palm oil for canola. Each oil needs a different amount of lye.

 

[goldieloxj95]

Thanks again for your wisdom in soapmaking

As far as handmilling.. How do you create different smelling soaps or try new recipes from a basic soap when you don't want the whole batch the same? How do YOU do it?

How do I figure out the Soap Calc? Is there a specific book you can recommend to me that I may get that has good recipes and calculations converts?

I have a book with calculation converts in the back.. but I guess my question is... How do you know how much fat your oils have to calculate with the lye? This is a lot of work

Thanks again!

 

[adoptapitbull]

Hey goldie, check your private messages.