Jeez Louise that means I have some in my basement with my candle supplies! For some reason was thinking it (soy wax) was different than soy wax flakes for candle making.They have it at the big craft stores (hobby lobby, michaels) in the candle section.
Yep!Sorry but I have a daft question. I’m looking at soy wax and it’s candle making which is coming back, is this the same stuff for soap making?
Thanks! What is the melting point of eurosoy 800?I've actually used the S100 here in New Zealand and found that it had a higher melt point than GW415 and that did make a difference - much harder to work with for CP soap. Whichever soy wax you go with, get the lowest melt point that you can. I hear people mention the Eurosoy800 as being quite a good done.
ETA: Just looked up Nature wax C3 and this wouldn't suit with those high temps required.
47-54°CThanks! What is the melting point of eurosoy 800?
That sounds familiar. GW 415 melts in a flash for me when it reaches 51-52°C.47-54°C
Thanks, that is great47-54°C
Thank you I’ll do that. I do have a tendency to soap at lower temps. Plus ya know, SCIENCE !The recipe sounds good! 🕯
You might give it a try first to “understand” the molten soy wax, i. e. just barely melt up the soy wax + CO. Then add the (cold) liquid oils, and (with a thermometer at hand) stir and get a feeling how low your temperature can drop until you see the melt become turbid and thicken up. False trace can be really annoying (keep in mind, soy wax is made for candemaking, and candle makers want waxes that have a sharp melting point and are solid below – contrary to the needs of soapmakers). It's better you know from the beginning how cold is too cold for your soy wax.
Hi I would like to know that after mixing lye and oil if we get false trace we can burst in microwaveThank you I’ll do that. I do have a tendency to soap at lower temps. Plus ya know, SCIENCE !
If I ran into false trace with soy, would I be able to just stick with hand stirring through false trace until fluid again, as I’ve done previously when I false trace reared it’s ugly head? Or is this a recipe that could be heated up with a gentle burst in microwave? I have NEVER done that before, but read some “experienced” soapers have done so on occasion.
Run thru soap calc LOOKS okay but palmitic/stearic NOT balanced!
I've never had false trace with it, but I rarely soap below 38 degrees celsius - more often around 42 degrees ( just over 100 I think). My soap is very low in palmitic - only what i get from the OO, RBO and Avocado oils.Thank you I’ll do that. I do have a tendency to soap at lower temps. Plus ya know, SCIENCE !
If I ran into false trace with soy, would I be able to just stick with hand stirring through false trace until fluid again, as I’ve done previously when I false trace reared it’s ugly head? Or is this a recipe that could be heated up with a gentle burst in microwave? I have NEVER done that before, but read some “experienced” soapers have done so on occasion.
Run thru soap calc LOOKS okay but palmitic/stearic NOT balanced!
That's not a drama. It's just something to keep this in mind when you evaluate your soap after cure. You might like it personally! “Unbalanced” high-S/low-P soap can be lovely, don't see this as a “law”. Anecdotally, such soaps profit from longer cure times (2 months +), and they might need some more persuasion to get them lather up nicely.Run thru soap calc LOOKS okay but palmitic/stearic NOT balanced!
I am not the person to ask. I’ve never had to use microwave to reheat a thickening soap batter, but did read on SMF that some experienced soap makers do so on occasion. Maybe start a new thread asking others when/if & for how long?Hi I would like to know that after mixing lye and oil if we get false trace we can burst in microwave
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