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Moving my post for knowledgeable perusal.
I just made this soap but so far they always come out with these white spots…glycerin? The soap is just for my own use so it doesn’t bother me, but i would really like to try and make a smooth looking soap. I hot process.
 

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Hello my helper Ali! I do HP in my crockpot. The inly thing i always add if a) eo or b) fo

It looks to me like the white areas are portions of the soap that is drier than the darker portions. Dry crusty soap bits don't want to mix into the moister soap, so they stay white looking like this. When I do HP, my goal is to minimize the crusty bits and then to keep the inevitable bits from getting mixed into the main soap.

I use 25% lye concentration which allows for some water evaporation during the cook -- I see you're using 33% lye concentration which may be aggravating your problem.

I don't cook the soap any longer than absolutely necessary -- once it goes into full gel, it's done enough to put into the mold.

I keep the soap pot covered as much as possible during the cook to minimize evaporation.

I avoid scraping crusts around the edges into the main soap when stirring during the cook and when transferring the soap into the mold.
 
Thanks DeeAnna! You are pretty much hitting the nail on the head. I do stop cooking when i have reached the translucent stage BUT then i mix in the edges because i don’t want to lose any soap. I guess i have to stop doing that. I did keep the pot covered as my lid is clear glass so i can keep an eye on things. And i did not even think that i could do 25% lye. I always thought that i had to follow the calculator for that.

I am not experienced enough to do any adjustments in case i mess up.

Thank you so much for the help! Back to the drawing board.
 
I thought perhaps you did HP because as DeeAnna said, those white bits look like dried soap from the sides of the pot. Ask me how I know about that. ;) Seriously, it's hard for me to waste that soap, so I used to scrape it in. Later I learned (on this forum, of course) that it was better to wait until the main batter was in the mold, and THEN scrape all the overcooked stuff and roll it into its own ball of soap.
 
I thought perhaps you did HP because as DeeAnna said, those white bits look like dried soap from the sides of the pot. Ask me how I know about that. ;) Seriously, it's hard for me to waste that soap, so I used to scrape it in. Later I learned (on this forum, of course) that it was better to wait until the main batter was in the mold, and THEN scrape all the overcooked stuff and roll it into its own ball of soap.
Sighhh yes it seems my lesson has just been taught as well. I am following in your footsteps 😃.

But now i have to order more product in order to confirm that this is the issue 😉.
 
I agree that it’s dried soap bits.

If you add your eo or fo after the soap is done cooking, warm the eo or fo a bit so it mixes in a little better.
 
And i did not even think that i could do 25% lye. I always thought that i had to follow the calculator for that.
You will still follow the calculator instructions, just change the settings so you get a 25% lye concentration. This isn’t the calculator I use so I’m not exactly sure how to accomplish that. It should be pretty straightforward. If not, I know others here use this calculator.
 
You will still follow the calculator instructions, just change the settings so you get a 25% lye concentration. This isn’t the calculator I use so I’m not exactly sure how to accomplish that. It should be pretty straightforward. If not, I know others here use this calculator.
Ever since Soapee calculator became unavailable i have been at a loss in what to use. I recently switched to Soapmakers Friend and it’s ok but not my favorite
 
I have only used soapcalc: http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
Once I got used to it, I found it pretty easy. Not saying it’s the best but it’s what I’m used to. 🤷‍♀️😂
Ok will give it a go…thanks
It looks to me like the white areas are portions of the soap that is drier than the darker portions. Dry crusty soap bits don't want to mix into the moister soap, so they stay white looking like this. When I do HP, my goal is to minimize the crusty bits and then to keep the inevitable bits from getting mixed into the main soap.

I use 25% lye concentration which allows for some water evaporation during the cook -- I see you're using 33% lye concentration which may be aggravating your problem.

I don't cook the soap any longer than absolutely necessary -- once it goes into full gel, it's done enough to put into the mold.

I keep the soap pot covered as much as possible during the cook to minimize evaporation.

I avoid scraping crusts around the edges into the main soap when stirring during the cook and when transferring the soap into the mold.
@DeeAnna please explain what lowering or raising lye % means. If you use a higher % per calculator i always thought it was to use up all the oils in a timely fashion. If you use less % does this mot mean that there will be more oils left and therefore higher superfat?
 
...If you use a higher % per calculator i always thought it was to use up all the oils in a timely fashion. If you use less % does this mot mean that there will be more oils left and therefore higher superfat?

@Gaisy59 -- If you want to use more or less NaOH for a given recipe, you change the SUPERFAT. Larger superfat => less NaOH. Lower superfat => more NaOH.

Raising or lowering the lye concentration has nothing to do with how much NaOH is used to make the soap. Changing the lye concentration ONLY changes the amount of water you use to make the soap.

You can change the amount of water for the recipe by changing the lye concentration or the water:lye ratio. These two settings mean exactly the same thing; they just look different. Some people prefer one over the other. Just pick one and stick with it.

I have more info about calculating the water in a soap recipe in my articles here: https://classicbells.com/soap/waterRatioConc.asp and here: https://classicbells.com/soap/waterInSoap.asp
 

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