Separation after pouring into molds

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Ronalda

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So I just made my first batch of soap from a local soap maker that I did a class through. She sold me a shea butter soap kit; and I had also purchased a fragrance oil from her as well. I followed the instructions and it was all going well until I went to pour. The batter thickened horribly fast ( I had it at a light trace ) and as I was frantically trying to get it into the molds it went awry. What causes the separation?

I'd appreciate any and all input.

Thanks!
Ronnie
 

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Without a recipe and method ,what FO you used, everyone would only be guessing what happened.
 
Oh, duh! Sorry about that Relle, I got a bit overwhelmed last night after attempting my batch!

Well, I emailed the soap maker who I bought the kit from; I don't know ratios of oils etc, it was a preblended kit. It was a cold process soap kit. There is still a pool of oil on some of the molds, some are more homogenous than others. I may just toss the whole thing and start over.

Totally new question though, Instead of using lard in cold process, is there another suitable substitute? I'd like to make soap for my son, and he is vegan. Anyone have a beginner proof recipe?
 
You can use palm instead of lard. 40-45% palm, 20%-25% coconut unless sensitive to coconut then 15% works too, the rest Olive, rice bran, sunflower etc and 5% castor. Be sure to run it through a soap calculator. Soapcalc.net or soapee are good ones.
 
Depending on the reasons he has for being vegan, you may also want to ask if he is okay with palm oil, or consider using sustainable palm. I know that sometimes it's a hot button issue in the vegan community. I actually found sustainable palm shortening at Walmart, so it's easy to get (but non-sustainable sources are going to be cheaper).
 
Ronalda, as a vegetarian myself, most of my soaps are without animal fats.

If your son is vegan, he may have issues with palm, as there are many people who avoid palm as much as possible for ethical reasons, even the palm from sustainable sources. If he has no issue with palm, it does add nicely to soap.

If he does have issues with palm, or you want to or need to try something else (cost, inaccessible, whatever), there are other oils to use that will produce a nice soap and some do contribute to a harder bar. Soy wax (there are several threads here at SMF with discussions about using soy wax in soap) at around 35% works pretty well for a hard bar that doesn't need to cure overly long, like a high olive oil soap does. But it may be harder to find and cost may be a factor.

Olive Oil in high percentages, up to 100% of the oils, makes a very hard bar of soap, but requires a really long cure. Castiles can be used earlier, but to reach their best potential I find an 18-month to 2-year cure is best. Some suggest 6-months, some suggest at least a year cure for high olive oil Castiles. Other high oleic oils can be used in the same way, but benefit from a longer cure.

I often use a combination of Olive (53%), Rice Bran (32%), Coconut (10%) & Shea (5%) for a very nice feeling soap and slow moving enough to do fun swirls. It's not my most favorite soap, but I do like it and the oils are easily obtained (here anyway). These are the percentages I use for swirls, but you could alter them or sub another oil to obtain characteristics you want in the soap. Sometimes I combine both Cocoa Butter & Shea Butter in equal amounts. The Cocoa Butter provides a bit more hardness than Shea Butter. Just some ideas for you.

NB: Of course always run recipes through a lye/soap calculator.
 
Ronald’s
If the FO wasn’t incorporated it might weep/seep out.
It might re-incorporate over time. See how it goes.

Next Time add the FO to the oils before you stickblend. Then hand stir fo a bit the SB for 5 secs then hand stir until trace is reached.
 

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