Please tell me about salt bars

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I use the process used by Lisa on YouTube (I Dream in Soap) and love it! If you use fine Himalayan salt, the soap is not too scratchy at all. My customers can’t get enough of it. I do not find it necessary to cure my salt bars longer than my other soaps.

I am just relating my own experience, and this is the difference in the lather from my salt bars. The first bar is 7 months old and the second is 5 weeks.
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Below is a bar from the same batch as the 5 week old bar above, after curing for about 2 years. So in my experience the longer cure time is important. If you get the results you want after a normal cure time, that's great!
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I use the process used by Lisa on YouTube (I Dream in Soap) and love it! If you use fine Himalayan salt, the soap is not too scratchy at all. My customers can’t get enough of it. I do not find it necessary to cure my salt bars longer than my other soaps.
I tried fine Himalayan salt in one of my salt batches and found it really scratched up my skin in the shower. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! It’s fine on my hands - good for getting garden grime etc off - but I won’t share that batch of soap as I don’t want anyone slicing up their epidermis! I went back to sea salt for my salt bars.
 
Since this seems to be the general thread for salt bars: am I correct in thinking that a salt bar recipe does not need sodium lactate? It certainly doesn't need help becoming a harder bar.
I stopped using sodium lactate in all my soap a long time ago - I use a tsp of sea salt PPO instead and I can’t tell any difference (except in the cost of ingredients 😁)
 
I saw an unusual sort of salt bar in this video by Holly's Soapmaking on YouTube; she used only 10 percent salt, which is an amount often dissolved into the liquid for a soleseife bar, but she added it to traced batter instead. I'm planning to try it!
This is the recipe I use. I’m not partial to a really scratchy soap so this works for me. And I don’t have to worry about the loaf getting too hard to cut.
 
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@A-Polly wrote: "...Holly's Soapmaking on YouTube; she used only 10 percent salt, which is an amount often dissolved into the liquid for a soleseife bar, but she added it to traced batter instead. ..."

If you want to make a salt/spa bar with large salt crystals rather than a soleseife/brine bar with tiny salt crystals, then, yes, you can add salt to the traced batter per Holly's method. Or you can add the salt to the finished lye solution. Either way will work to achieve the same goal, although adding salt at trace is probably easier to do.

Brine/soleseife bars are made by dissolving enough table salt (NaCl) in PLAIN water to saturate the water. This brine will be about 25% salt by weight of solution (25 g NaCl per 100 g brine). Then you add NaOH to this brine to make the lye solution.

The interesting thing is, very little of the NaCl dissolved in the plain water will stay dissolved after you add the NaOH -- only about 3% by weight of solution (3 g NaCl per 100 g of water-NaCl-NaOH solution). That's why the clear salt-and-water brine turns milky when you add the NaOH.

If you leave this mixture alone for awhile, you'll see a layer of tiny salt crystals settle out. They're so tiny they become invisible in soap and can't possibly scratch. That's the essential difference between salt/spa bars and solseife/brine bars -- the size of the salt crystals.

If you do the other way around (add salt to the lye solution), nearly all of the salt crystals will not dissolve and you'll end up with a salt/spa bar instead.
 
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