liquid soap-essential oil setting

[katre]

Hello everyone. I've been making liquid soap for a while now. I generally use sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, and a small amount of olive oil. But I couldn't get over the odor problem. I have made the product either by cooking it a lot or by not cooking it at all. I made various attempts. At the completion stage of the product, I add 1% of the total grammage of essential oil. For example, I add 10 grams of essential oil to 1000 grams of soap. I usually add lemon essential oil.

But soap has a unique smell. Sometimes pleasant, sometimes unpleasant. The problem is: When this scent is mixed with essential oil, the essential oil smell changes and a different smell emerges. It's not too bad, but it doesn't smell as lemony as I wanted it to. I tried to produce liquid soap in a way that it would not have its own scent and I tried many times but I failed. I added more essential oil but it still didn't work. I don't want to use chemical scents like perfume.

The castile liquid soaps I bought from some sellers have a very nice lemon scent. I don't know, maybe they are lying. They may be using perfume instead of essential oil. I couldn't find a soap like DR Bronner in my area. I wonder if the same thing happens with Dr Bronner soaps? How can I finish this problem? Have you encountered such a problem with the liquid soaps you produce?

 

[lsg]

Have you tried using the glycerin method with liquid soap?

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I have made the product either by cooking it a lot or by not cooking it at all.

There are about as many different ways to make LS as there are LS-ers! LOL Review your process by reading the tutorials on Alaiyna B's Blogspot.
https://alaiynab.blogspot.com/2014/07/basic-beginner-liquid-soap-and.html

The castile liquid soaps I bought from some sellers have a very nice lemon scent.

"Castile" generally refers to 100% Olive Oil soap. But Dr. Bronner's Castile contains no animal fats and thereby meets the legal definition of "castile" soap. It would help to have a link to the ingredients of a brand you like.

I generally use sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, and a small amount of olive oil.

I would skip the sunflower oil (I've never been happy with it in LS) and use olive oil instead. There could be something "off" with the sunflower.

I couldn't find a soap like DR Bronner in my area. I wonder if the same thing happens with Dr Bronner soaps? Have you encountered such a problem with the liquid soaps you produce?

I have not had that problem. The first thing that came to mind is that you may be scorching the oils somehow? I make a Dr. Bronner's type LS but the ingredients are different from what you use.

How can I finish this problem?

It would be helpful if you could provide a printout of your calculation for making LS. Also, more details about your process and method of dilution.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I add 10 grams of essential oil to 1000 grams of soap. I usually add lemon essential oil.

I use MMS Fragrance Calc to determine the amount of EO to add. Example:

1000 grams = about 35 oz. Wt
0.18 oz Wt. = about 5 grams for a strong scent! Oops!

Litsea Cubeba EO (aka "May Chang"") is recommended for anchoring citrus EOs. Here's the blend I use:

ZANY’S BLIMEY! BLEND
1 Part Lemon EO
1 Part Litsea Cubeba EO
2 Parts Lime EO
​

HTH

 

[katre]

Have you tried using the glycerin method with liquid soap?

Yes I tried but unfortunately the result is the same

 

[katre]

There are about as many different ways to make LS as there are LS-ers! LOL Review your process by reading the tutorials on Alaiyna B's Blogspot.
https://alaiynab.blogspot.com/2014/07/basic-beginner-liquid-soap-and.html

"Castile" generally refers to 100% Olive Oil soap. But Dr. Bronner's Castile contains no animal fats and thereby meets the legal definition of "castile" soap. It would help to have a link to the ingredients of a brand you like.

I would skip the sunflower oil (I've never been happy with it in LS) and use olive oil instead. There could be something "off" with the sunflower.

I have not had that problem. The first thing that came to mind is that you may be scorching the oils somehow? I make a Dr. Bronner's type LS but the ingredients are different from what you use.

It would be helpful if you could provide a printout of your calculation for making LS. Also, more details about your process and method of dilution.

Actually, at first I was using mostly olive oil, but later I realized that the bad smell usually comes from olive oil. That's why I use olive oil minimally.

Yes, when it is cooked too much, there is a roasting smell. But that's not the point. There is a smell even when I undercook it. Yes, it is a pleasant scent, not bothersome, but a scent that overwhelms the essential oil.

So, is there any dominant scent in the liquid soaps you make? Is the scent completely neutral?

 

[VikingChick]

Maybe you could try lemongrass instead of (or in addition to) the lemon EO?

 

[Hana Alifah]

Actually, at first I was using mostly olive oil, but later I realized that the bad smell usually comes from olive oil. That's why I use olive oil minimally.

Yes, when it is cooked too much, there is a roasting smell. But that's not the point. There is a smell even when I undercook it. Yes, it is a pleasant scent, not bothersome, but a scent that overwhelms the essential oil.

So, is there any dominant scent in the liquid soaps you make? Is the scent completely neutral?

Hi katre, do you find any insight or solution for this? i think, i faced the same problem with you :")

 

[katre]

Hi katre, do you find any insight or solution for this? i think, i faced the same problem with you :")

Not yet unfortunately

 

[AliOop]

Have you tried not cooking it at all, i.e., making it via cold process?

For CPLS, I use 3:1 water:lye ratio. For me, that is one part KOH dissolved in one part distilled water. After the KOH has dissolved, I add two parts glycerin (which helps it to trace faster than just using distilled water).

Unless I'm using olive oil and trying to speed up trace, I only melt the solid oils, and pour the room-temp liquid oils into that.

After adding the entire KOH-water-glycerin solution to the oils, I mix with a stickblender until it becomes too thick to blend. Then I cover it and let it sit for a few hours. The paste is almost always fully saponified and ready to dilute within 4 hours max. I do use boiling hot water to dilute, but you could try using low heat instead.