Lining molds

[sperry]

I've skimmed the topics (10 pages worth, anyway) and read all the posts I found dealing with removing soap from molds. Most (all?) of the discussion revolved around loaf molds. (The possible exception being spraying with oil.) What I would like is for the soap to come out of the mold in bar-sizes. Do those tray molds work? (I know someone who tried one way back when, and she sent it back, totally frustrated. The plastic bowed, and it was NOT "easily bent back into shape.") and she said removing the soap was all but impossible. Lining doesn't seem feasible for tray molds. Does spraying with oil work? I guess I'm curious why most people pour loaves and cut rather than pouring individual bars. Thanks.

 

[sunfloweracres]

I am no expert, but have done tons of late night research. I have read not to oil the molds because the oil in the soap bonds with it. That makes sense to me. I have had that happen with shea butter soap (pictured). Then on another website they say that they oil the molds with coconut oil. :?:
Try putting the mold after the soap has cooled in a plastic bag and put in the freezer for a few hours. I left one in for a week or more, accidently forgot about it, and they popped right out.

I also use wooden sewing machine drawers lined with waxed paper or heavy plastic from inside cereal boxes. Also found a bunch of hard rubber drawer organizers (Target brand) at the Goodwill that work great if they are lined.

 

[Hazel]

I guess I'm curious why most people pour loaves and cut rather than pouring individual bars. Thanks.

I'd say it's personal preference. I make both loaves and individual bars. I spread mineral oil into plastic molds because it won't saponify and the soap comes out easily. I also use silicone molds with cavities. It just depends on what shape I want.

Examples below - you have to scroll down to see the pics

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=21499
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=28062

 

[sunfloweracres]

I use anything I can find, mostly recycled wooden boxes, small sewing machine drawers, silicon cupcake pans, etc. to save money and to experiment because I spend so much on ingredients. Every order is $40 to $50 with shipping. Another reason is that cut soap looks old fashioned/handmade/rustic. I want to try everything!

I am also using plastic oval soap molds that I already had for making solid lotion bars. I will try Mineral oil on those. Thanks!!

 

[Maythorn]

I'm using wooden and plastic molds and I use freezer paper. Or rather I battle with it to get it creased along the edges and to lay smoothly. I have to tape one side to the side of the mold to hold it in place so I can crease the other side until I've gone all along and if freezer paper wasn't curly and it would be a lot easier whether for a box or a loaf mold. :x

Individual molds I love and I want to find some that are just plain bars, not fancy or any cute shape. I like those half round rectangles you can even subject to oven heat to gell but I don't know where to get them. That's what I would rather use than have to line boxes.

 

[sperry]

Thanks all. Mineral oil sounds like it is WAY worth trying.

 

[Hausfrau007]

Yeah, I read about oiling the molds with baby oil which contains a lot of mineral oils. I'll try this as soon as my Mister-made wooden molds are finished.

 

[ButterDiesel]

We've been using Glad Press and Seal and really like it. It sticks to the mold enough to stay put and easily pulls away from the log when its time to cut into bars

 

[Hausfrau007]

We've been using Glad Press and Seal and really like it. It sticks to the mold enough to stay put and easily pulls away from the log when its time to cut into bars

Seriously? I have a ton of that stuff. For some messed up reason, I always forget I have it, so I've had it in my pantry for years!

 

[Hazel]

Yeah, I read about oiling the molds with baby oil which contains a lot of mineral oils. I'll try this as soon as my Mister-made wooden molds are finished.

The mineral oil is for plastic molds. I don't believe it would work in wooden molds - but I could be wrong.

 

[Miz Jenny]

Press n Seal is a great idea!!!!! Spendy, but less waste, because you can cut just what you need. I'm pretty adept at parchment paper, but it does take time to cut it & tape it onto mold, plus there's the waste. EUREKA!

 

[Hausfrau007]

Yeah, I read about oiling the molds with baby oil which contains a lot of mineral oils. I'll try this as soon as my Mister-made wooden molds are finished.

The mineral oil is for plastic molds. I don't believe it would work in wooden molds - but I could be wrong.

My wooden molds will be finished with heavy-duty floor lacquer.

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

Yeah, I read about oiling the molds with baby oil which contains a lot of mineral oils. I'll try this as soon as my Mister-made wooden molds are finished.

The mineral oil is for plastic molds. I don't believe it would work in wooden molds - but I could be wrong.

My wooden molds will be finished with heavy-duty floor lacquer.

I never thought of using lacquer :think: ...are you sure that won't react with the lye? Just curious...

 

[Seifenblasen]

I, too, would be concern about how the myriad of chemicals from floor lacquer behave when in a high pH, high temperature (relatively speaking, as most wooden floors, even with radiant heat does get as hot as CP/CPOP soap) environment.

If the lacquer is water-base, it will probably wear out rather quickly. If it is "oil" based, there will be tons of petroleum based products - and I am not sure if I want any of them in my soap.

None of the commercially available wooden molds are vanished, probably for a reason. But then, you may be onto something very unique and interesting with the invention of floor lacquer wooden soap molds!

 

[sperry]

Again... thanks you all. What an amazing resource this is! How long would it take one person to learn all that we can learn from the thousands helping out here. Seriously... it could cut years to hours.

 

[Hausfrau007]

I, too, would be concern about how the myriad of chemicals from floor lacquer behave when in a high pH, high temperature (relatively speaking, as most wooden floors, even with radiant heat does get as hot as CP/CPOP soap) environment.

If the lacquer is water-base, it will probably wear out rather quickly. If it is "oil" based, there will be tons of petroleum based products - and I am not sure if I want any of them in my soap.

None of the commercially available wooden molds are vanished, probably for a reason. But then, you may be onto something very unique and interesting with the invention of floor lacquer wooden soap molds!

My Mister says the varnished molds will 100% stand up to my "whimpy" lye/soap guck, lol. It remains to be explored as he just put the last coat of varnish on them. I promise to let you know. The previous-to-last coat he put on does indeed seem to be diamond hard, very plastic-like.

We'll see!

My first trial for the molds is for goats milk soap, something I haven't tried before. So if the whole thing goes in the trash, it could be because of the molds or because I messed up the recipe.

 

[sperry]

Anyone who calls lye "whimpy" hasn't worked with it or has a great sense of humor. Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if the varnish won this battle. They have done amazing things with chemicals lately. I, for one, look forward to the results.

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

From what I understand (and I am no Chemistry major) Lye reacts with fats, which is why it burns on our skin, will unclog a greasy drain or ...gulp...melt a corpse (eww). I also know that (once mixed with water as it is for soap) if it is on a formica countertop, wooden table with a finish, or glass jar it will etch it. Granted, after mixing with the oils for soap, it's chemical reaction has lots to play with already, rendering it maybe a little less of a problem...but I would still wonder about the varnish.

Maybe you can make a simple recipe that you've already used (instead of a new goatsmilk recipe) and let us know how it is affected (or not) by the varnish, or how the varnish is affected (or not) by it. Man, I'm so science-y.

And then, if all goes well...the rest of us may steal your idea... :twisted: Haha!

 

[Hausfrau007]

Yeah, we'll see. He's not using furniture varnish, btw, he's using high-grade industrial floor finish, not sure what the difference is, but it sure sounds durable. I'll let you guys know either way. I'll shmear them with baby oil prior tho.

Oh and: if this works, you're VERY welcome to steal my idea.... !!

 

[Gryfonmoon]

I hate to derail a thread, but I didn't think it was appropriate to start a whole new thread for my (also mold-lining related) question.

Does anyone know what to use to line a PVC pipe mold?