Hot Process-When is it Cooked/Finished?

[Kcryss]

Thank you so much! So you reserve the water from what would be combined with your sodium hydroxide? Nothing that is actually extra? I really like that in the pot swirl, really pretty monochromatic colors. Gonna have to try that. I use a chopstick to get "chunkier swirls," I think it works pretty well.

Correct, it's just water that would have been added with the lye.
I do a lot of in the pot swirls ... quick and easy and no extra dishes.

 

[Tara08]

Could you please explain the step you take for a hp in the pot swirl? I have never done one and would love to try but not sure if what I am thinking is correct.Thanks!!

 

[linne1gi]

Hi, I’ve been making HP (and CP) soap for just over 15 years. I started with HP, went to CP and nowadays I go back and forth depending. I use less water these days to cook, but add in a little reserved liquid (not water) after the cook. Often you don’t see stages, the soap just seems to do its thing. But the shiny appearance is Vaseline stage, the end. Then I take the crockpot off heat. First I add in (room temperature) yogurt. Stir really well, and let it sit for 3-4 minutes. Then I add in Coconut milk, apple cider vinegar, orange juice and sodium lactate. And my post cook super fat. All these ingredients are hot . I keep them in a Bain-Marie on top of the stove. Some people keep their post-cook ingredients in crocks in a warm oven. Important to not add anything cool, this immediately seizes the batter. By this time, the batter has cooled off enough to add fragrance, but is still relatively warm. Then I split my batter and add color. I add boiling hot water to my micas and that helps with fluidity also. It’s quite possible to swirl HP.

 

[AliOop]

@linne1gi that red one is sooo pretty!!

 

[linne1gi]

Thanks @AliOop!

 

[cmzaha]

Tara, no matter what I say, someone will contradict me, so I would just as soon keep my knowledge to myself. I am TRULY Sorry!

This is a sad way to look at it, soap is soap and does what it wants to. We all share our experiences and techniques which greatly vary with experience and recipe. For me the only time I would hot process would either be to use a very cranky fragrance or rebatching. When I do hot process from scratch I heat up and cook low to the point of my batter just going into the gel stage, add my fo, and pour not caring whether it still zaps, after all, I am still going to cure my soap. My point is we all soap differently and there is not necessarily a right or wrong way. I use low heat because I do not want to risk volcanos, they can cause damage to counters, floors, cabinets, and personal injury, so I just see no point in the risk.

 

[Tara08]

This is a sad way to look at it, soap is soap and does what it wants to. We all share our experiences and techniques which greatly vary with experience and recipe. For me the only time I would hot process would either be to use a very cranky fragrance or rebatching. When I do hot process from scratch I heat up and cook low to the point of my batter just going into the gel stage, add my fo, and pour not caring whether it still zaps, after all, I am still going to cure my soap. My point is we all soap differently and there is not necessarily a right or wrong way. I use low heat because I do not want to risk volcanos, they can cause damage to counters, floors, cabinets, and personal injury, so I just see no point in the risk.

So you do not worry about going through all the. "stages?" Do you cure just as long as if it were cp?

 

[cmzaha]

So you do not worry about going through all the. "stages?" Do you cure just as long as if it were cp?

Nope I do not worry about all the stages, it will turn into soap regardless. I usually cure longer than cp because hp usually requires more water/liquid than cp.

 

[Tara08]

I see. Hmmm....I have never added anything or molded before hitting Vaseline stage. I wonder how fluid I could get if I didn't wait that long? Worth a try. Thanks a lot!

This is a little off the topic title...but curing times for hp are all over the place it seems. Wondering what are some thoughts on that one. I am hoping to not have to cure as long as cp. Also, does ph have anything to do with it? If the ph is good, is the soap ok to use? Just want to thank everyone for their input and thoughts, I'm pretty new to all this so every opinion is welcome and helpful for me!!

 

[Kcryss]

Could you please explain the step you take for a hp in the pot swirl? I have never done one and would love to try but not sure if what I am thinking is correct.Thanks!!

In the pot swirl is just adding your color to the pot of soap, stir it a bit being sure to get down to the bottom, then mold. You don't fully combine the color in the pot, just mix it enough that it isn't all in one big clump.

This is a little off the topic title...but curing times for hp are all over the place it seems. Wondering what are some thoughts on that one. I am hoping to not have to cure as long as cp. Also, does ph have anything to do with it? If the ph is good, is the soap ok to use? Just want to thank everyone for their input and thoughts, I'm pretty new to all this so every opinion is welcome and helpful for me!!

HP and CP need the same amount of time for curing. CP is safe after full saponification, which I believe is anywhere from 12 to 24 hrs, depending on the recipe. HP is safe once it's fully cooked. Safe/fully saponified really have nothing to do with the actual cure time.
Once again, @DeeAnna has provided the science behind the cure on her soapy stuff pages which explains why curing is important no matter if you're doing CP or HP: https://classicbells.com/soap/cure.asp

FWIW, the reason I do HP is to prevent additives from being exposed to the lye. For that to happen, the additives have to be added after full cook, or vasaline stage.

Is there really a valid or legit reason for not allowing my additives to combine with lye? I honestly don't know the scientific answer. In my own mind, I like to think it does, but I really have no scientific evidence one way or the other.

PH just tells you how alkaline or acidic a substance is. Here is a little info on PH: https://classicbells.com/soap/pH.asp

 

[Gaisy59]

In the pot swirl is just adding your color to the pot of soap, stir it a bit being sure to get down to the bottom, then mold. You don't fully combine the color in the pot, just mix it enough that it isn't all in one big clump.


HP and CP need the same amount of time for curing. CP is safe after full saponification, which I believe is anywhere from 12 to 24 hrs, depending on the recipe. HP is safe once it's fully cooked. Safe/fully saponified really have nothing to do with the actual cure time.
Once again, @DeeAnna has provided the science behind the cure on her soapy stuff pages which explains why curing is important no matter if you're doing CP or HP: https://classicbells.com/soap/cure.asp

FWIW, the reason I do HP is to prevent additives from being exposed to the lye. For that to happen, the additives have to be added after full cook, or vasaline stage.

Is there really a valid or legit reason for not allowing my additives to combine with lye? I honestly don't know the scientific answer. In my own mind, I like to think it does, but I really have no scientific evidence one way or the other.

PH just tells you how alkaline or acidic a substance is. Here is a little info on PH: https://classicbells.com/soap/pH.asp

@Kcryss i too add fragrances etc after cook in my HP because i find fragrance for one stays better. Maybe i too am delusional because it might have to do with the fragrance itself, but having said that after the zap test i feel like every other addition is “safe” from that mean ole lye

 

[Kcryss]

@Kcryss i too add fragrances etc after cook in my HP because i find fragrance for one stays better. Maybe i too am delusional because it might have to do with the fragrance itself, but having said that after the zap test i feel like every other addition is “safe” from that mean ole lye

Lol, exactly! I don't want the lye monster messing with my extras!

 

[Joy Wolff]

I use a digital thermometer. I am still fairly new at the HP soap, but getting the hang of it. I get it up to 150 degrees. It "mushrooms" around edges. I find the digital infared thermometer, really helps. I also put saran wrap on the crock pot, under the lid, to keep the water from evaporating rapidly, while it cooks. Hopes this helps some!