Help me make my first lotion

[Misschief]

I love it! It really is such a customizable recipe. I have several versions for my face (different times of year), a version for my body, and a version for my feet in the summer when they get those callouses around the edges from wearing sandals all the time.

Also, thank you for sharing the information about xylitol - I didn't know anything about it as a skincare ingredient. I do have some around for my toothpaste (powder) formula. But on the off chance... have you read anything about sorbitol as a skincare ingredient? I buy that in bulk as my "sugar" for soapmaking. It would be great to have another purpose for it.

The info about xylitol also applies to sorbitol. I've been using it recent creams and lotions and quite liking it.

This may be a bit controversial but here's a sample IG post created in ChatGPT. I haven't used the info on IG yet but am planning to do a series about skincare additives like these. Note: I've never heard of #4, Sodium PCA but intend to do some reading.

Ingredient Highlight: Xylitol vs. Alternatives

Xylitol isn't the only player in the skincare game! Here are some similar ingredients you might come across:

Glycerin: This versatile humectant attracts moisture and suits all skin types. It's a go-to ingredient for hydration.

Hyaluronic Acid: With incredible water-holding capacity, hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps the skin, found in many serums and moisturizers.

Panthenol: A soothing humectant with anti-inflammatory properties, great for sensitive skin and maintaining moisture levels.

Sodium PCA: A natural amino acid derivative found in the skin's moisture factors. It draws in moisture and helps maintain hydration.

Sorbitol: This sugar alcohol hydrates and improves moisture retention, often used in products for dry or sensitive skin.

Each ingredient contributes to skin moisturization and balance.

 

[Georgeandstella]

View attachment 75145

Hello, thank you for sharing, I’m not making yet, just lurking and learning is the concentrate base from

DIYbathandbodyshop? Thank you !​

 

[Misschief]

Hello, thank you for sharing, I’m not making yet, just lurking and learning is the concentrate base from

DIYbathandbodyshop? Thank you !​

Yes, it is. Lurking and learning isn't a bad thing. Feel free to ask questions, too.

 

[Georgeandstella]

Yes, it is. Lurking and learning isn't a bad thing. Feel free to ask questions, too.

Thank you so much

 

[VikingChick]

Add it to the water phase.

As for Propylene Glycol and Xylitol as additives, I learned about them from a cosmetic scientist on FB. Doug Entz is a frequent contributor in one of the groups I'm in. Part of his explanation about Xylitol is as follows (quoted directly from one of his FB posts):

"In the interest of keeping this short.... I will mainly just bring your attention to xylitol...and let you do the research. I would suggest, as it is a very cheap ingredient, and readily available, simply adding 1 or 2% to your existing formula's water phase (sorry to you anhydrous people...not for you). It has numerous skin benefits, and especially if you are starting to take interest in skin microbiome. This is all the rage in skincare right now...and Xylitol checks all the right boxes on this topic. For those of you that like to talk about the 'forbidden' skin afflictions....you really need to dig into this topic. (Please do not discuss in the comments!!!) In the name of being multi-functional, it will also contribute to freeze / thaw performance of your products, as is the case with most polyols.

I often use Xylitol, betaine and trehalose... all in the same formula. (On top of my humectant package.) Trehalose also has microbiome activity...and will help keep your skin smelling nice...hehehe...especially for the elderly.

Topical exposure of the skin with xylitol has thus been shown to reduce skin moisture loss. The mechanism appears to relate to increased tight junction and barrier formation in the skin. Also, dietary exposure to xylitol has been found to improve skin thickness. "

Interesting!

 

[cmzaha]

Aw man! I purposely bought the MCT to use in the base because the raw coconut's comedogenic rating is higher. Oh well, it'll get used one way or other. After all, HB&M has a super easy non greasy lotion recipe that uses MCT as it's only oil.
Do you mind me asking which OMH FO you use? Seems there's a million of them out there.

I know it is not mentioned in this post but I used to use BTMS-50 in some of my lotions recipes. I say used to because I have not made anything since covid. BTMS-50 gives a lovely powdery feel to lotion if you like that type of feel which is still a bit different than simply a non-greasy feel which you can accomplish with adding Isopropyl Myristate or even some silicones. When I used BTMS-50 it was not my only emulsifier, I believe I mixed it with Polawax, but have also used it with e-wax as a co-emulsifier.

For anyone that wants an oil-free lotion, as much as I do not like B&B she does have a wonder recipe for an oil-free lotion. Me being me I tweaked it but it was a fantastic seller for me, especially to knitters and crocheters. It is made with silicones and no oil. I will warn you if you try it do follow her steps or the emulsion will break since it is a bit tricky to get the silicones to emulsify. Offhand I do not remember the procedure, but her recipe works. On a side note, I know many love Humblebee and as usual I am the odd man out with many failures of her recipes. I recommend having hers challenge tested if you are going to sell or give it away. I am not at all bashing her, but I really recommend challenge testing, I admit it is expensive, or at the very least a plate count. On the flip, our best-selling lotion is loosely based on an old B&B recipe and I say loosely because my daughter and I tweaked it a lot over the years, but it is a lotion my daughter learned to make lotion with, which we did have challenge tested as written by B&B and it passed with flying colors. Sadly Ann Marie no longer has that recipe available. I do have the tweaked version if anyone is interested, but the original is packed in a box somewhere.

 

[Misschief]

I know it is not mentioned in this post but I used to use BTMS-50 in some of my lotions recipes. I say used to because I have not made anything since covid. BTMS-50 gives a lovely powdery feel to lotion if you like that type of feel which is still a bit different than simply a non-greasy feel which you can accomplish with adding Isopropyl Myristate or even some silicones. When I used BTMS-50 it was not my only emulsifier, I believe I mixed it with Polawax, but have also used it with e-wax as a co-emulsifier.

For anyone that wants an oil-free lotion, as much as I do not like B&B she does have a wonder recipe for an oil-free lotion. Me being me I tweaked it but it was a fantastic seller for me, especially to knitters and crocheters. It is made with silicones and no oil. I will warn you if you try it do follow her steps or the emulsion will break since it is a bit tricky to get the silicones to emulsify. Offhand I do not remember the procedure, but her recipe works. On a side note, I know many love Humblebee and as usual I am the odd man out with many failures of her recipes. I recommend having hers challenge tested if you are going to sell or give it away. I am not at all bashing her, but I really recommend challenge testing, I admit it is expensive, or at the very least a plate count. On the flip, our best-selling lotion is loosely based on an old B&B recipe and I say loosely because my daughter and I tweaked it a lot over the years, but it is a lotion my daughter learned to make lotion with, which we did have challenge tested as written by B&B and it passed with flying colors. Sadly Ann Marie no longer has that recipe available. I do have the tweaked version if anyone is interested, but the original is packed in a box somewhere.

I would definitely be interested, Carolyn. I do make an oil-free lotion that I love but it hasn't always worked as well as I'd hoped (separation issues).

 

[A-Polly]

To add another 2 cents to all the great info from makers much more experienced than I, a book recommendation for beginners like me: Smart Lotionmaking, by Anne L. Watson.
http://www.annelwatson.com/books/Lotionmaking.htmlhttps://www.amazon.com/Smart-Lotion...swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1699725759&sr=8-2
It's a thin paperback (much cheaper for the Kindle version), more than 20 years old, no luscious photos at all, and only a very few line drawings. But I found it to provide a most solid understanding of the lotionmaking process. Even the basic starter recipe (Anne's Almond Lotion) works beautifully and is one of my favorite lotions ever. Her descriptions are very thorough (and yes, some reviewers called her "wordy"), but I don't think anyone who follows her directions exactly can fail, and will gain a solid foundation for future formulations. Just my thoughts, maybe not even worth 2 cents!

 

[Servant4Christ]

I know it is not mentioned in this post but I used to use BTMS-50 in some of my lotions recipes. I say used to because I have not made anything since covid. BTMS-50 gives a lovely powdery feel to lotion if you like that type of feel which is still a bit different than simply a non-greasy feel which you can accomplish with adding Isopropyl Myristate or even some silicones. When I used BTMS-50 it was not my only emulsifier, I believe I mixed it with Polawax, but have also used it with e-wax as a co-emulsifier.

For anyone that wants an oil-free lotion, as much as I do not like B&B she does have a wonder recipe for an oil-free lotion. Me being me I tweaked it but it was a fantastic seller for me, especially to knitters and crocheters. It is made with silicones and no oil. I will warn you if you try it do follow her steps or the emulsion will break since it is a bit tricky to get the silicones to emulsify. Offhand I do not remember the procedure, but her recipe works. On a side note, I know many love Humblebee and as usual I am the odd man out with many failures of her recipes. I recommend having hers challenge tested if you are going to sell or give it away. I am not at all bashing her, but I really recommend challenge testing, I admit it is expensive, or at the very least a plate count. On the flip, our best-selling lotion is loosely based on an old B&B recipe and I say loosely because my daughter and I tweaked it a lot over the years, but it is a lotion my daughter learned to make lotion with, which we did have challenge tested as written by B&B and it passed with flying colors. Sadly Ann Marie no longer has that recipe available. I do have the tweaked version if anyone is interested, but the original is packed in a box somewhere.

I would love this. Thankyou! I had no problem making a couple of the Humblebee recipes, but they just aren't what I'm looking for. I had previously asked about using BTMS-50 and considered trying it, but noticed IPM might be more cost effective so I've ordered it and can't wait to try it. I typically prefer an oil free moisturizer due to my own sensitivies, so I'm all ears.

 

[AliOop]

I would definitely be interested, Carolyn. I do make an oil-free lotion that I love but it hasn't always worked as well as I'd hoped (separation issues).

Ditto! Any recipe by @cmzaha that I've ever made has been wonderful, and an oil-free lotion recipe that actually works would be amazing. Thank you for your generosity, Carolyn.

 

[Georgeandstella]

Ditto! Any recipe by @cmzaha that I've ever made has been wonderful, and an oil-free lotion recipe that actually works would be amazing. Thank you for your generosity.

I would like to try this too, thank you

 

[not_ally]

I'd love to see the oil-free recipe too, Carolyn!

 

[cmzaha]

I would definitely be interested, Carolyn. I do make an oil-free lotion that I love but it hasn't always worked as well as I'd hoped (separation issues).

This is the recipe. Fresh Face Oil Free Lavender Lotion - Soap Queen. Remember when using silicones do not heat them. Add them in after you have emulsified your other ingredients and they have cooled down 120ºF then add in the silicones and SB in or you risk the lotion breaking. Another note I do not add the tapioca powder to this recipe, it does not need it and I do not trust preserving it. It does have a bit of a learning curve, I admit I broke it a few times when I added in my silicones while my heated waxes were too warm. Also, I use the heat and hold method not microwave.

 

[Misschief]

This is the recipe. Fresh Face Oil Free Lavender Lotion - Soap Queen. Remember when using silicones do not heat them. Add them in after you have emulsified your other ingredients and they have cooled down 120ºF then add in the silicones and SB in or you risk the lotion breaking. Another note I do not add the tapioca powder to this recipe, it does not need it and I do not trust preserving it. It does have a bit of a learning curve, I admit I broke it a few times when I added in my silicones while my heated waxes were too warm. Also, I use the heat and hold method not microwave.

Thank you, Carolyn. I look forward to trying it.

 

[AliOop]

This is awesome. I'm going to make some with my grandson this weekend!

 

[cmzaha]

As you all know I very seldom share my recipes but I will share my oil-free Lotion tweaked recipe. I never guarantee anything so do what you may with it. Just remember Do Not heat the silicone, they go in the cool-down phase otherwise it will break every time. Since I no longer sell and am sure I will not again I suppose I can share once in a while. This is my all-time favorite lotion and you certainly do not need all the additives, just adjust the percentages where you want. Also, you can use all Btms 50 or 25. But whatever emulsifier you choose make sure you check that it works with silicone, from what I remember some do not emulsify silicones, but I could have forgotten.

 

[not_ally]

Carolyn, don't know if you'll remember the answer to this, and I know you have more important things to worry about, so just ignore if so.

In looking at that recipe - which I can't wait to try- I remembered using Hydrovance in the past and adding something to counteract PH drift from the urea, it's been so long that I don't remember what I used, or how I did it!). Should I just not worry about it/was it not an issue when you made it?

 

[VikingChick]

@cmzaha Thank you for so generously sharing your recipe! Curious why you use both Optiphen and Germall Plus? Extra insurance?

 

[Misschief]

Carolyn, don't know if you'll remember the answer to this, and I know you have more important things to worry about, so just ignore if so.

In looking at that recipe - which I can't wait to try- I remembered using Hydrovance in the past and adding something to counteract PH drift from the urea, it's been so long that I don't remember what I used, or how I did it!). Should I just not worry about it/was it not an issue when you made it?

I've just been doing a little reading about some of the ingredients Carolyn uses in her lotion and came across this link:

https://www.swiftcraftymonkey.blog/question-about-humectants-why-not-hydrovance/

 

[cmzaha]

Recipe update:
Sorry everyone use Hydrosol, not Hydrovance or just distilled water. I may have experimented with Hydrovance but normally I used Hydrosol. Hydrovance can be tricky without a ph meter to test. I have several tweaked printouts of my recipe. To address the dual preservative system that is the one that I found worked for my formulas and both had different temp requirements one better for mold and one better for fungus. Sorry, I double-checked the recipe and the is the only thing I would change.

Mischeff, yes Hydrovance can cause a ph drift that is why I just recommended using Hydrosol which I also used. I went back through more notes and I had to adjust ph with the Hydrovance when used in lotion.