critique shaving soap recipe

[bruce2288]

I tried to download from soap calc but got everything in single column. so

tallow 55%
shea butter 23%
castor oil 22%
1 oz FO

Default setting for water and super fat 38% and 5%

Tell if I am in the right ball park or any problems you see. Thanks

 

[Loolee]

from everything I have read about shaving soap, the copious notes I have taken, it looks to me like it meets all the criteria.

that being said, I just made my first shaving soap last night, and I'm pretty sure it flopped....and it met all the criteria, too. try a small batch and see!

Are you going to add anything to it?

 

[Loolee]

Soap Bar Quality Suggested Range Your Recipe
Hardness 29 - 54 42
Cleansing 12 - 22 4
Conditioning 44 - 69 56
Bubbly 14 - 46 24
Creamy 16 - 48 58
Iodine 41 - 70 57
INS 136 - 165 128

Lauric 1
Myristic 3
Palmitic 17
Stearic 21
Ricinoleic 20
Oleic 32
Linoleic 4
Linolenic 1

 

[sudbubblez]

Something about shea butter makes it cut down on the lather in large percentages. I would make this with beer -or- add sugar to the lye water to give more bubbly. The bubbly cant be 100% from castor because it adds density but not bubbles... there has to be a tad bit of bubbles to prop it up.

 

[bruce2288]

Loolee I guess I forgot the benntonite, but otherwise I'm thinking just the way it is unless I learn something different. I am long on research and short on experience, so some things I will have to learn the hard way. Getting recipes lined up so I have the right supplies ordered. What happened with your batch?

Sudbubblez, I better do some more reading on Shea.

 

[Loolee]

Something about shea butter makes it cut down on the lather in large percentages. I would make this with beer -or- add sugar to the lye water to give more bubbly. The bubbly cant be 100% from castor because it adds density but not bubbles... there has to be a tad bit of bubbles to prop it up.

I think this is my problem. I only used it at 8%, but I think I also didn't have anything in it to give it bubbles... like coconut oil. that being said, I only made it last night, so maybe time will improve it some.

I used a total butter count of 31%, tallow at 40%, castor at 24%and stearic at 5. I added sugar, silk, salt, sodium lactate, and egg yolk. and beer and clay!

My stearic acid number is 28, and ricinoleic is 22. My bubbly number is 25, and the creamy number is 63. this is a nice, slick, SMOOTH bar.

shaving experts,, what would you recommend to give it bubbles?

Bruce, I hope you don't think I'm trying to hijack your thread. I can start my own if you like.

 

[bruce2288]

No that is fine. The more imput the better. Mine looks awful plain compared to what you did.

 

[bruce2288]

sdzbubbles, thanks for the suggestions. I will check out sugar.

 

[Loolee]

more isn't always better.

here are my numbers, and they really aren't all that different from yours:

hardeness: 44
cleansing: 3
conditioning: 53
bubbly: 25
creamy: 63
iodine: 53
INS: 135

and the acids:

lauric: 1
myristic: 2
Palmitic: 13
stearic: 28
ricinoleic: 22
Oleic: 28
Linoleic: 3
Linolenic 0

 

[Kwpgrooming]

How much sugar would you add to the lye water to increase lather?

 

[bruce2288]

Do you folks think useing beer and adding sugar would fix the lather re: bubbles or should I add 5-10% coconut?

 

[IrishLass]

One thing that I just wanted to clarify regarding shaving soap y'all are trying to create: are you wanting to make a shaving soap to be used with an old fashioned shaving brush that men use on their faces, or just a nice shaving soap that ladies like to use on their legs?

I ask because all the tips I've personally given about shaving soap (i.e. the stearic being at least 20%, adding 10% glycerin, having way more creamy as opposed to bubbly, et.....) all refer to the kind of shaving soap specifically made to be used exclusively with a shaving brush in a shaving mug for men's faces.

When I make a shaving soap to be used for shaving my legs, I just use one of my regular soap formulas and add clay to it. Not to say that a lady couldn't use the one geared to be used on men's faces on her legs, but just be aware that such a soap will not lather very well without a brush.

For a bit of bubbles in my men's shaving soap, I add coconut oil at a small %. I try to stay to 10% or just a little less, and I use sugar at 2 tablespoons ppo.


IrishLass

 

[bruce2288]

Irishlass, Yes my soap is mug and brush. I haven't bought shaving cream in 30 years. Thank you for the advice. I plan to pour directly into mugs any problem with that? When would you add the glycerin?

 

[Loolee]

for me, its a puzzle to be solved. I told my husband that he has to try it... but he's already told me that he *loves* his foaming gel. :/

Irish Lass, Do you think my soap will cure out ok, or should I rebatch it and add some coconut oil?

 

[IrishLass]

Irish Lass, Do you think my soap will cure out ok, or should I rebatch it and add some coconut oil?

I wouldn't rebatch if it were me. At this point, if you rebatch to add coconut oil, you'll also have to add more lye to it in order to react with the extra added coconut oil, otherwise the coconut oil will just add a lather-diminishing superfat, rather than producing soap which produces bubbles. For me, that would be just too much of a hassle. I would just let it cure and see how it goes, and then tweak your formula for your next batch if needed.

IrishLass

 

[Loolee]

well, I went ahead and rebatched it because I was over confident in my abilities and the numbers, so I made a two pound batch originally. And I didn't have enough extra oils and butters to try it again.

I shaved my legs last night and they really feel great. many times, I'll have dry flaky skin after I shave, but not last night or this morning, either.

I guess my coconut oil is about 10% right now, since that amount was easy to figure the lye and extra water and such.

I have no idea how it suds since I don't have a proper brush.

 

[sudbubblez]

Bruce, I am unsure if what I said about shea cutting lather applies to shaving soaps. Is true for regular body bars but don't know if it makes a difference when the foam is being built with a brush.

 

[Lindy]

Just remember you do not want big bubbles - you want thick, thick lather....