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I am not Seawolfe, but I will endeavor to explain. He means to take one bar of the HP and try it once a week, say on Wednesday or Thursday, and take notes on what you think of the lather and conditioning. When you get to the 6 week mark, try it and then look back on what you thought about it at the start. You will then understand why we say it is so very much better if you let it cure. It is something you have to experience to understand.
 
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^^^ what Susie said. Plus, if I'm not mistaken you have a fresh CP batch that you can run the same experiment on, for comparisons sake.

Pssst Susie, I'm a girl sistah! :p
 
I washed my hands with the spoon and it really dried out my hands :shifty:. it is still soft .... My first batch was hard almost right away (cold process ) I think I am a cold process person .... If the HP soap was not totally right with the ph will it work out in the cure like cold process? another question is it essential to wash everything completely? all my soap stuff is set apart only soap equipment
 
tomorrows recipe

tomorrow I was going to do this batch again CP. I was going to use beer (I have some left from today) unless I shouldn’t ? will it make nice soap ? It looks nice seems good and hard
32g Black castor oil
454g coconut
78g olive oil
58g red palm oil
52g safflower oil
28g unrefined shea butter
1046g beef tallow
6% Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) Amount 246.113g
Ounces of liquid recommended 576.18g
 
Wow, that's a lot of oils! Especially for a beginner.

Here's a workup of what you're suggesting, with percentages:
Castor: 32g, 1.83%
Coconut: 454g, 25.97%
Olive: 78g, 4.46%
Red Palm: 58g, 3.32%
Safflower: 52g, 2.97%
Shea butter: 28g, 1.6%
Tallow: 1046g, 59.84%

The lye calculator is giving me a 7.5% lye discount when you use 246g lye. Also, combined with the water it becomes a 29% solution, which is roughly "full water" and is a good level for a beginner.

I have a couple of questions for you... Why so many oils, and why at such low percentages?
 
tomorrow I was going to do this batch again CP. I was going to use beer (I have some left from today) unless I shouldn’t ? will it make nice soap ? It looks nice seems good and hard
32g Black castor oil
454g coconut
78g olive oil
58g red palm oil
52g safflower oil
28g unrefined shea butter
1046g beef tallow
6% Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) Amount 246.113g
Ounces of liquid recommended 576.18g

You need to stop making soap for a bit. Seriously. You need to give those two soaps time to cure so that you know if you hate them or not. Then you come tell us what you think and we can steer you on correcting what you don't like.

If you absolutely must make more soap right now, I am going to strongly suggest a 3-4 oil base with no complications. Something like this tried and true recipe so that you have a good soap to compare the others to.

Tallow 55%
Olive Oil 20%
Coconut Oil 20%
Castor Oil 5%

I would NOT recommend that you attempt a beer soap at this stage. It needs special steps to not cause issues, and you need to get a good base recipe down pat before you start with additives such as this.
 
I didn't like the soybean either, I replaced it with coconut and neem. I've HP my shampoo a couple times, I start using it at 4 weeks. Tried it once at a week, it was ok but not great.
 
Wow, that's a lot of oils! Especially for a beginner.

Here's a workup of what you're suggesting, with percentages:
Castor: 32g, 1.83%
Coconut: 454g, 25.97%
Olive: 78g, 4.46%
Red Palm: 58g, 3.32%
Safflower: 52g, 2.97%
Shea butter: 28g, 1.6%
Tallow: 1046g, 59.84%

The lye calculator is giving me a 7.5% lye discount when you use 246g lye. Also, combined with the water it becomes a 29% solution, which is roughly "full water" and is a good level for a beginner.

I have a couple of questions for you... Why so many oils, and why at such low percentages?

Making soap/ shampoo for 40 people What is a good calculator to use ? seems the bramblberry one does weird stuff ???
 
The whole "HP is safe to use after gel" is one we get all the time. It may be safe, but it will not be good. You still need time for that bar to lose water and time makes them milder and more conditioning. You can no more judge the quality of that shampoo bar after a couple of days than you could judge vegetables in a garden the day the seeds sprout.

I would not use any colorants in shampoo bars, as color can and will change the hair color. Not all, mind you, but do you want to take the chance?

Why are you using phenolpthalien? You can zap test it to know if it is safe. Zap test is the only true safe/not safe determination for soap.

I have heard this before about time making soap milder and more conditioning? How so? Through what mechanism? Is it that the lye isn't completely gone at first and had to die out over time... Evaporates with the water?
 
You need to stop making soap for a bit. Seriously. You need to give those two soaps time to cure so that you know if you hate them or not. Then you come tell us what you think and we can steer you on correcting what you don't like.

If you absolutely must make more soap right now, I am going to strongly suggest a 3-4 oil base with no complications. Something like this tried and true recipe so that you have a good soap to compare the others to.

Tallow 55%
Olive Oil 20%
Coconut Oil 20%
Castor Oil 5%

I would NOT recommend that you attempt a beer soap at this stage. It needs special steps to not cause issues, and you need to get a good base recipe down pat before you start with additives such as this.

Ok susie NO BEER ....The shampoo seemed to turn out great looks kind of rustic . I dont know how to make a recipe with percent’s and it seemed grams was the most accurate way to measure I want to use 1000 grams of tallow could you give me a recipe based on that ? I have more coconut than O.O. so if it is safe to tweek the percentages 30/10 ? It fine if this is in ounces . I am making soap for 40 people one batch this big will give 1/2 of us one bar :) Thanks for your help
 
Making soap/ shampoo for 40 people What is a good calculator to use ? seems the bramblberry one does weird stuff ???

Ok susie NO BEER ....The shampoo seemed to turn out great looks kind of rustic . I dont know how to make a recipe with percent’s and it seemed grams was the most accurate way to measure I want to use 1000 grams of tallow could you give me a recipe based on that ? I have more coconut than O.O. so if it is safe to tweek the percentages 30/10 ? It fine if this is in ounces . I am making soap for 40 people one batch this big will give 1/2 of us one bar :) Thanks for your help

PLEASE SLOW DOWN. I know you're excited and in the New Hobby Honeymoon phase, but please take that energy and put it into really LEARNING about the craft! You should be able to answer my questions above about why you're using the oils you're using at the amounts you're using, if only so we can understand your thinking and correct any misconceptions you may have.

Also, please make smaller batches. You want to share with everyone and that's great, but don't you want to make sure that the soap works the way you want it to before you go sharing it? A year in and my "standard" batch size is based off of 600-700g oils.

Brambleberry is a decent calculator. Not my favorite as I can't customize things the way I want, but it won't give you a lye-heavy soap.

Spend time learning how to work with percentages. They are our biggest help in both analyzing recipes to make sure they will have the properties we want, as well as in resizing a recipe. A soap with 50% tallow is going to have half of its oils be tallow no matter if I'm making a 1lb batch or a 10lb batch. It also lets me know that half of my oils will be hard, long-lasting, and conditioning in the final bar. You can't know that if you're just measuring out grams and then figuring out what the percentages are later by running it through the lye calculator. Most calculators (including Brambleberry) have an option where you can enter in the percentages of each oil and then what size you want your total batch to be, and they will figure out how much of each oil to use.

Please tell me why you used so many oils. 7 is too many for a beginner (heck, I max out at 5 oils, and I try to stick to 4!). Not only that, but 5 of your 7 oils are less than 5% each of the total recipe. A good rule of thumb is that an oil needs to make up 5% of the total recipe for you to be able to notice its qualities in the final soap. That olive, safflower, palm, castor, and shea butter? You're not going to get anything out of them. You have coconut taking up 25% of your recipe, and that's too high for a shampoo bar (what you claim you want to make). It's on the high end for a general body bar, even. It will strip everything from hair and turn it to straw.

Please don't take this as discouragement. We really want to help you make the best soap possible. For that to happen, you really do need to stop, listen, and learn.
 
I have heard this before about time making soap milder and more conditioning? How so? Through what mechanism? Is it that the lye isn't completely gone at first and had to die out over time... Evaporates with the water?

As far as cure time goes, part of it is evaporation. Another part of it is subtle reactions and the salt crystals of the soap aligning themselves into a crystalline matrix that improves the feel of the soap. It won't take a harsh recipe and make it mild, but it will make it the very best soap it can be.

Here's a nifty thing. Take two bars from a batch that have been curing for, say, four weeks and tap them together. They'll just thump against one another. Now take two bars from a batch that have been curing for 3 months or longer, and tap them together. They'll vibrate and resonate in your hands (it's subtle, but it's there!). That's caused by the crystalline matrix of the soap salts!
 
As far as cure time goes, part of it is evaporation. Another part of it is subtle reactions and the salt crystals of the soap aligning themselves into a crystalline matrix that improves the feel of the soap. It won't take a harsh recipe and make it mild, but it will make it the very best soap it can be.

Here's a nifty thing. Take two bars from a batch that have been curing for, say, four weeks and tap them together. They'll just thump against one another. Now take two bars from a batch that have been curing for 3 months or longer, and tap them together. They'll vibrate and resonate in your hands (it's subtle, but it's there!). That's caused by the crystalline matrix of the soap salts!

Wow. That is so cool. I love that soap making is so scientific, but artful at the same time.
 
Ok susie NO BEER ....The shampoo seemed to turn out great looks kind of rustic . I dont know how to make a recipe with percent’s and it seemed grams was the most accurate way to measure I want to use 1000 grams of tallow could you give me a recipe based on that ? I have more coconut than O.O. so if it is safe to tweek the percentages 30/10 ? It fine if this is in ounces . I am making soap for 40 people one batch this big will give 1/2 of us one bar :) Thanks for your help

You would greatly benefit by using Soapcalc.net. Here is a great tutorial:

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49627

I can't do math to save my life. This calculator allows you to resize any recipe with ease.

You need that CO to be 20% or less. If you are using the 4 oil recipe I provided, please stick to that recipe with 5% superfat. Most of us know exactly how that recipe will turn out, and we can help you develop what you like by seeing how you like that one. If you use another recipe, then we can't help as much.

PLEASE slow down and do some research. You seem to be going in all directions at once. You really do need to know what you are aiming for before you shoot in the dark. Start with not making soap until you understand that you need to reduce your batch size to no more than 1000 g oils TOTAL. Remember that each 4 oz bar will last one person a month. So, you don't need 400 bars of soap right now. You need to make 10-12 bars of GOOD soap before aiming for huge batches. This will save you lots of money when you get a bad batch, and it is coming. All of us have had bad batches if we soap long enough.
 
It is in post #13 of this thread:

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=42922&page=2

That whole thread is loaded with good info.

You're are right, there is so much good and detailed information here. I've been reading it for at least 30 minutes now. And there are still tens of pages left. I'm only stopping because I have to get to bed and wake up early tomorrow. Thank you for sharing this! Fascinating!
 
In the OP's defense, some of us learn best in a rather chaotic fashion. I know that's how I started. It does calm down once you get your sea (soap) legs under you :)
Thats great I am from the north shore of mass :thumbup: you learn by jumping into traffic (mass drivers are world renown and notorious) I do well with pressure and a certain ammount of chaos .... However I did head the warnings and slooowed down I will make the 4 oil batch as Susie had suggested next week 5 lb batch :clap:
 
5 lb is still a massive batch for so early on, unless you are totally happy with the recipe. As it stands, your other soaps might not have even had time to cure properly so how do you know if you need to change anything?

Sure, you have lots of people to use it up, but is it not better to make smaller batches for feedback before making enough for everyone to have a full bar?
 
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