Well, that IS a lot of butter and so on. I made a lotion and at 75% water it was very thick. Maybe more water would be helpful here?
* I am a lotion novice, though.
* I am a lotion novice, though.
Aftershave Balsam, too oily!
- Thread starter Sapwn
- Start date
Help Support Soapmaking Forum:
I used 40% oils and EW, and 60% water (aloe gel and chamomile).
I also added 1% lanoline. Could this be the problem
I was surprized to read that some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy :shifty:
I also added 1% lanoline. Could this be the problem
I was surprized to read that some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy :shifty:
When we say "dry" we mean a skin feel that is the opposite of greasy.
"...some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy..."
Fine, but you're talking about apples and oranges if you try to compare a body butter with a facial product! What works on the body will not necessarily be fine for the face.
The "doesn't feel greasy" perception varies depending on the condition of the skin and what skin you're talking about. A body butter might feel really good and soak in quickly if used on dry legs and arms in the winter-time, but the most fantastic body butter is likely to feel too heavy and too greasy on the face. You just can't use the same approach to create a facial product that you do to create a body product.
Study the label of a commercial product you do like. I bet you're going to find the % of actual oils and butters (and lanolin) is fairly low. The other ingredients in the product are included to create a "dry" feel and add conditioning and soothing properties without adding a heavy, greasy skin feel.
Some butters are drier and other butters are more greasy, but as Dahlia says, they are all heavier than most liquid oils and are usually used in small amounts, if at all, in facial products.
Your choice of emulsifier and thickener is important. E-wax and Polawax feel greasier. BTMS and conditioning emulsifier will feel drier and will also add oil-free moisturization to the skin. If you add a thickener (helps to stabilize the emulsion), then stearic acid will feel heavier and waxy while cetyl alcohol will feel lighter and softer.
If you are determined to use a high % of fats in your product, I doubt you will get a result you like for face use. I agree with the others' recommendations -- More water-based liquids. Less total fat. Back off or eliminate the butters. Study Swiftcraftymonkey's blog.
"...some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy..."
Fine, but you're talking about apples and oranges if you try to compare a body butter with a facial product! What works on the body will not necessarily be fine for the face.
The "doesn't feel greasy" perception varies depending on the condition of the skin and what skin you're talking about. A body butter might feel really good and soak in quickly if used on dry legs and arms in the winter-time, but the most fantastic body butter is likely to feel too heavy and too greasy on the face. You just can't use the same approach to create a facial product that you do to create a body product.
Study the label of a commercial product you do like. I bet you're going to find the % of actual oils and butters (and lanolin) is fairly low. The other ingredients in the product are included to create a "dry" feel and add conditioning and soothing properties without adding a heavy, greasy skin feel.
Some butters are drier and other butters are more greasy, but as Dahlia says, they are all heavier than most liquid oils and are usually used in small amounts, if at all, in facial products.
Your choice of emulsifier and thickener is important. E-wax and Polawax feel greasier. BTMS and conditioning emulsifier will feel drier and will also add oil-free moisturization to the skin. If you add a thickener (helps to stabilize the emulsion), then stearic acid will feel heavier and waxy while cetyl alcohol will feel lighter and softer.
If you are determined to use a high % of fats in your product, I doubt you will get a result you like for face use. I agree with the others' recommendations -- More water-based liquids. Less total fat. Back off or eliminate the butters. Study Swiftcraftymonkey's blog.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Messages
- 18,008
- Reaction score
- 8,513
Here is link to a recipe I make for my son. This is not an answer to your first post, but maybe can be used as an example.
http://www.makingcosmetics.net/recipes/92-Refreshing After Shave Cream-Gel.pdf
http://www.makingcosmetics.net/recipes/92-Refreshing After Shave Cream-Gel.pdf
I used 40% oils and EW, and 60% water (aloe gel and chamomile).
I also added 1% lanoline. Could this be the problem
I was surprized to read that some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy :shifty:
I made a lotion from the body butter I made, since the butter is starting to turn liquid and in general greasy for the unusually humid weather we have now in Michigan. So, about 30% oil phase with 2% IPM, rest water phase with aloe powder, 2% glycerine and 1% each of preservative and EO in cool down. Used E wax for emulsifier. Now this feels almost as greasy as the original body butter, but it is absorbed much more readily, so it's not as greasy after sometime. So, I think the IPM is helping. Thanks to Shunt, for mentioning this ingredient in the thread that Gent referred to.
As for as the butters with 100% fats being less greasy, I think people just use it in much smaller amounts than a lotion.
Dorymae
Well-Known Member
I used 40% oils and EW, and 60% water (aloe gel and chamomile).
I also added 1% lanoline. Could this be the problem
I was surprized to read that some members here have made body butters, which means approximately 100% oils butters and IPM, and it didn't feel greasy :shifty:
You can also try substituting all of your e-wax for BTMS or BTMS-50. I hate greasiness and it is the only thing I use in my lotions. ( I don't use IPM).
Yep, I also like BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 a lot. Although Susan (swiftcraftymonkey) says she has much better luck with BTMS-50 vs. BTMS-25, I've never had any problems using BTMS-25.
***
I used the term "conditioning emulsifier" in my earlier post. Just to explain, it is roughly the generic equivalent of BTMS-25.
***
I used the term "conditioning emulsifier" in my earlier post. Just to explain, it is roughly the generic equivalent of BTMS-25.
[FONT="]Thank you for the answers. I ordered BTMS (not 50) to repeat the recipe with some modifications.[/FONT]
[FONT="]I used a couple of times this last balsam again.[/FONT]
[FONT="]It gives a burning sense as applied to the face. It is gone after a couple of minutes.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Could it be the 30 drops of lavender essential oil in 200cc of cream?[/FONT]
[FONT="]I used a couple of times this last balsam again.[/FONT]
[FONT="]It gives a burning sense as applied to the face. It is gone after a couple of minutes.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Could it be the 30 drops of lavender essential oil in 200cc of cream?[/FONT]
The skin of the face is often more sensitive than skin elsewhere on the body, and I know that EOs can cause lots of trouble even in small doses. So it's entirely possible the lavender might be irritating your skin. But it could be something else, including your butters and oils -- really hard to say. I'd make your next recipe with no scent and see if that makes a difference. If it still irritates, then you know it's another ingredient causing the irritation.
I wouldn't just "put up with" this irritation because it could trigger dermatitis or even an allergic reaction.
I wouldn't just "put up with" this irritation because it could trigger dermatitis or even an allergic reaction.
Good idea!
Dahila
Well-Known Member
what percentage and what did you use? The same as above my post? No doubts it is oily
The oil phase was 40% and I used
Olive oil
Macadamia butter
Emulsifying wax 8%
IPM 3%
Lanoline 1%
30 drops Lavender essential oil
Last edited:
I did another one yesterday with:
80% aloe vera gel (no chamomile, no water)
8% olive oil
6% Em Wax
4% IPM
1,5% Vit E in oil
0,5% tea tree essential oil
It seems to be ok or at at least very improved. I must wait until tomorow to shave test this balsam.
80% aloe vera gel (no chamomile, no water)
8% olive oil
6% Em Wax
4% IPM
1,5% Vit E in oil
0,5% tea tree essential oil
It seems to be ok or at at least very improved. I must wait until tomorow to shave test this balsam.
I hope you're making small batches, as there is no real preservative in there. Keep it in the fridge and use it fast, or a post-shave face is the last place that I would use it.
The last batch is 50ml.
Of course I keep it in the fridge, as well as my industrial-made balms which are full of preservatives.
From tomorrow on, my whole apartment will be in the fridge; temperature will reach 37C and air conditions will take over until the end of August.
Of course I keep it in the fridge, as well as my industrial-made balms which are full of preservatives.
From tomorrow on, my whole apartment will be in the fridge; temperature will reach 37C and air conditions will take over until the end of August.
I shave-tested the last batch made with 80% aloe gel today.
It is significantly less oily. I am very close to what I want to achieve.
Thank you all for the comments!
I used the last drops of optiphen in the previous batches and I need to buy a new preservative. Which would you recommend for an aftershave balsam?
It is significantly less oily. I am very close to what I want to achieve.
Thank you all for the comments!
I used the last drops of optiphen in the previous batches and I need to buy a new preservative. Which would you recommend for an aftershave balsam?
Dorymae
Well-Known Member
Liquid germell plus.
How much do you use? You didn't list it in your recipe before.............
If you are talking about the optiphen, I use it in 1%. But the last batch with 80% aloe gel was made with no preservative at all because I run out of optiphen. I only put 0.5% tea tree essential oil for some antibacterial properties. In a couple of months this batch will finish.
Dahila
Well-Known Member
to much of EO, however lavender does not burn, Maybe it is something else?
2 drops of essential oil for an ounce of lotion is more than enough. EO are very potent
Similar threads
