On facial soaps: My advice? Don't
Having made soaps for years, I tried to perfect a facial soap - never worked. I studied, and tried every cosmeceutical soap bar on the market. Didn't work. I tried it on oily faces, and on mine, very dry, mature. I've researched, studied, and formulated products for troubled skin and aging skin for years; and work with cosmetic chemists, as well. The pH of the skin is very delicate, and the cleanser must be pH balanced. You CANNOT measure that with a solid soap.
A
daily solid facial soap does not exist that's good for the skin (note the emphasis on
daily.)
Yikes, :thumbdown:is all I can say when using castille soap on the face
especially aging skin. We're in the age of cosmeceuticals, guys, take advantage of it! I do!
A once a week soap, perhaps, made with clay, essential oils, sure. I made one myself with french pink clay, a little rhassoul, cupuacu butter, lots of other amazonian oils, butters, camellia oil (great for mature skin) rose geranium and rose essential oil (yes it was EXPENSIVE, I only made 4, and I KEPT ONE!! hee hee!) but would
NEVER use it as a
daily facial soap.
That being said, there's simply no way of getting around the best cleansers of all - those with alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, and you cannot get them, or enough of them, or the right balance of them, in bar soap.
I make a foaming cleanser, using fruit acid alpha hydroxys, and beta hydroxys (great for acne, because they can get deep into the pores, clearing them out, and create a sterile follicle). Someone here mentioned blackheads around the nose. These are exactly what BHA's are for.
Moreover, as a foaming cleanser (no one with mature skin should use a milky cleanser), I'm able to add extracts, botanicals, therapeutic essential oils, because the alpha/beta hydroxys enable them to travel deep into the pores, acting as a carrier - balancing the skin, or healing the skin, further. So, you also have a cleanser that can multi -task too. For instance, a cleanser formulated for dry skin
with acne.
I have written EXTENSIVELY about AHA's/BHA's for anti-aging, and anti-acne (
http://etesianplantaceuticals.tumblr.com/day/2013/06/14 in my "Alpha/Beta: Separating Hydroxy Acid Truth from Myth and Skin Care Health" as well on the subject of Beta Hydroxy Acids:
"Salicylic Acid: Natural vs. Synthetic and Why It’s Important".
In fact, I'll post my before/after photo from a teenage test subject with severe acne who used my 5 part DermaDefense Acne Kit over 3 month period. Now,
TO BE CLEAR, it was not the BHA/AHA cleanser alone in which these results were achieved, as I said in the former sentence, but a result of
5 products working together.
A year and a half ago, I had given him my bar soap cleanser. The actives were: active manuka honey, goat milk (lactic acid), salicylic acid, citrus essential oils, peels (exfoliation), tepezcohuite, and more. It certainly had been a best seller for me - and still have people asking for it, but barely achieved any results.
I went back to the drawing board. I studied, worked with cosmetic chemists, with a crash course on skin chemistry, and 4 months later, formulated a natural liquid cleanser, with the fruit acid AHA/BHA's. The BHA part was salicylic acid from Aspen Bark. Some of the ingredients from the soap made it in to liquid - the tepezcohuite, active manuka honey, citrus essential oils (and 10 more). the results were incredible; as you can see from the photos.
The other one I make is for mature skin (with a tendency towards breakouts) and I use it everyday. I can totally feel the difference when I skip a day.
Again, I still get customers who request the citrus soap, but I won't make it. I've just learned too much about the skin's function. And while it's a great body soap, I fear my customers would use it as a facial soap, even if I caution against it, and I don't want to be a co-conspirator, albeit an unwilling one, in the long term damage it will cause.
That's my input on soap as a daily face cleanser, from my in depth, 4 year, trial and error, educational experience on the subject.