Zany's no slime castile
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Interesting. And the soap with pomace (on the left, correct?) is also whiter.
That is not my experience with different OO's regarding how long they take to become hard, as long as all else is equal (lye concentration, insulation, same/comparable mold - not all molds produce the same set up time, etc.)
quinta do veloso
New Member
In my experience, there are definitely differences in soap using different EVOOs (never mind differences between pomace and EVOO etc.), but my experience is kind of unusual maybe. We have a traditional old olive grove and make our own organic EVOO. We only sell the most recent harvest's oil, but it keeps well for years, so since we can only use so much olive oil ourselves (we use a lot), we make pure olive oil soap, both liquid and CP bars, with the excess from previous harvests. We have five or six different varieties of olive in our grove, all mixed up, so every year the oil is a little different (color, aroma, taste).
Even if I use the exact same recipe, with two different olive oils, I find color, hardness, time to trace, and lather can all be very different. It's so obvious that I have different recipes for different oils. For instance, with oil from one year's harvest, liquid soap paste needs more than four times its weight in diluting water to be pourable, while with oil from the year before, it only needs two and a half times the water (that's a recipe with just olive oil and KOH and distilled water, no glycerin, nothing else).
I guess that's less of a thing with commercial olive oil, since it's usually combined from many different sources and pretty homogenized, but all olive oil--even from the same grove, harvested and milled the same way, definitely with no adulteration or mixing—can have a varying fatty acid profile and therefore have its own specific behavior in soap. It doesn't seem surprising that pomace, "light" (ie refined), etc. would also act different.
Even if I use the exact same recipe, with two different olive oils, I find color, hardness, time to trace, and lather can all be very different. It's so obvious that I have different recipes for different oils. For instance, with oil from one year's harvest, liquid soap paste needs more than four times its weight in diluting water to be pourable, while with oil from the year before, it only needs two and a half times the water (that's a recipe with just olive oil and KOH and distilled water, no glycerin, nothing else).
I guess that's less of a thing with commercial olive oil, since it's usually combined from many different sources and pretty homogenized, but all olive oil--even from the same grove, harvested and milled the same way, definitely with no adulteration or mixing—can have a varying fatty acid profile and therefore have its own specific behavior in soap. It doesn't seem surprising that pomace, "light" (ie refined), etc. would also act different.
ravenscents
Well-Known Member
More Zany’s soap made with Sam’s club OO
EVOO on the right, mild OO on the left. 30 hours old.
Made at the exact same time under the same conditions, I measured everything to the gram.
30 hours is too long in the mold, I should have cut at 12-18 hours. The soap at 30 hours is slightly brittle and hard to cut.
I did not gel or freeze. Room temperature cure. The EVOO has a slight gel ring
EVOO on the right, mild OO on the left. 30 hours old.
Made at the exact same time under the same conditions, I measured everything to the gram.
30 hours is too long in the mold, I should have cut at 12-18 hours. The soap at 30 hours is slightly brittle and hard to cut.
I did not gel or freeze. Room temperature cure. The EVOO has a slight gel ring
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Made my first batch of it two days ago, using 80% OO, 15% CO, 5% castor, with added sorbitol. Used the faux seawater at the recommended ratio. They were supposed to be vegan, but I spaced out and added GM powder instead of coconut milk powder. Oops.
The FO thickened the batter so fast that the mold details didn't come out that great, and they are getting a little ashy. But they smell great, and lather-testing the scraps showed some early promise. I'm excited to try them in a few weeks!
The FO thickened the batter so fast that the mold details didn't come out that great, and they are getting a little ashy. But they smell great, and lather-testing the scraps showed some early promise. I'm excited to try them in a few weeks!
I think they look amazing! A real classic look
Aww thank you. There are tons of air pockets, and the bars towards the back have very little detail from the molds. But these will go to my testers anyway, and they don't care. They just love getting free soap from me.I think they look amazing! A real classic look
This is the exact recipe I made 2 weeks ago and my little test slivers are already lathering beautifully. Love these molds!
Thanks! For nexpensive Amazon molds, they are pretty decent quality. I think there was a good discount to buy both sets together, if I recall. All my testers seem to like the designs - such an easy way to make the bars look "custom."
I posted in the other thread but will confirm here, as well. I started testing one of the bars at 9 days after unmolding, and it is lovely! It's the first castile/bastille soap that I have ever liked. I believe it's the combination of a bit of CO, GM and sorbitol for great lather, as well as the salt to combat the slime/snot. My bars have absolutely zero slime despite our water (which used to be pretty decent but is now a bit harder and much more chlorinated).
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
That was my reaction the first time I made it too! I honestly look forward to washing my face with it every morning... and I take my time doing it.
My batch is 17 days old now. I used a bar in the shower tonight. No slime, didnt dry out my skin, a Nice hard bar of soap. I’m impressed.
Beautiful soap! My family loves @Zany_in_CO no slime Castile goat milk soap too! One of my daughters stopped buying products to shave her legs and now uses it instead.
Hello Zany,This is a tried and true recipe that I've made several times. Others have tried it with excellent results. Be sure to keep the bar high and dry between uses by using a soap-saver-type soap dish. Tweak to your heart's delight! (Like, do I even need to say that?!)
ZANY’S NO SLIME OLIVE OIL CASTILE
Ingredients: Olive oil, water, sea salt, sodium bicarbonate.
1) MAKE FAUX SEAWATER - Use for water portion of the lye solution.
1 quart warm water
1 Tablespoon sea salt
1 Tablespoon sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
I make up a quart at a time and store it in the fridge until I need it.
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2) MAKE LYE SOLUTION - Mix and allow to cool to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F).
1.7:1 Water to Lye Ratio (Note decimal and colon)
0% Super Fat/Lye Discount
Notes: I’ve tried 2:1 and 1.5:1. 1.5:1 gets almost too hard and 1:2 is okay but a bit slimey, so, for me, 1.7:1 is the ideal. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables; so 0% SF works best to reduce slippery slime.
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Prepare lye solution and set it in the sink to cool. Weigh olive oil into soap pot. Warm to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F). Combine when lye and oils are within -12°C (10°F) of each other. SB on and off to emulsion stage (5 - 25 minutes, depending on grade of olive oil.) Slowly pour into mold. Tap to remove bubbles. Spritz lightly with alcohol. Cover with plastic wrap. Insulate. Leave soap undisturbed for 12-24 hours.
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UNMOLD in 12-24 hours
CUT Day 2
CURE Ready to ship in 2 weeks. 6 weeks is best. The longer the cure the better the soap.
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Unscented, this soap is suitable for babies, sensitive skin, and for cancer patients undergoing radiation. Add 5% castor oil and 10% coconut oil for bubbles and an even milder soap.
If adding fragrance, add 0.85 oz. FO or 0.5% EO /PPO (Per 500 grams) to the castor oil an hour or so ahead of time (or overnight) and a teaspoon PPO of dry ingredient of choice -- corn starch, oat flour, arrowroot powder, White Kaolin Clay, etc. -- to help “stick” the fragrance.
VARIATIONS: Infuse Calendula Petals (yellow) or Bay Leaves (green) in oil ahead of time. Strain. Use up to 40% in the batch to add mildness and color.
Sorry to ask. I am Italian, could you please say what a quart amounts to? I searched on the internet and I got too many different results. Thank you
A quart in the US is 32 fluid ounces, which equals 907.18g. HTH!
Thank so much! Yes this helps (I had to look it up)
Hello Ali,
How did you make your recipe with both faux sea, GM and sorbitol, do you mind posting it? Or linking me to it?
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
1 QUART (32 oz.) = 1 LITER (approximately) (33.8 ounces)
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Hello Albertina, I used the recipe from the first post in this thread. She explains how to make the faux seawater there. My additives were 1% sorbitol and 1tablespoon of powdered goat milk per 500g of oil. I stick-blended the powder into the oils before adding the lye water.
Thank you very much
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