I made it January 1. This one with a little coconut has always lathered better than the 100% olive oil one. I think we both used the same recipe - the tweak suggested by Zany.You win @dibbles ! How old is yours?
I made it January 1. This one with a little coconut has always lathered better than the 100% olive oil one. I think we both used the same recipe - the tweak suggested by Zany.You win @dibbles ! How old is yours?
Thank you, Sara! I'm happy it worked for you. And, yes, isn't it remarkable to get down to that last little sliver of soap and it still keeps its shape?!I am wondering if those of you who have made variations of it had kept the zero superfat as in Zany’s original recipe or increased it because of other oils added.
Thank you, Sara! I'm happy it worked for you. And, yes, isn't it remarkable to get down to that last little sliver of soap and it still keeps its shape?!
Zero SF is the way to go if you want to reduce slime.
Adding 10% coconut & 5% castor will give you the same nice, long lasting castile you first experienced, but with more dense lather. Dissolving a tablespoon of table sugar in the water to make the NaOH solution also helps lather.
I generally tend to use a low SF when I use less coconut oil, so personally, for Zany's recipe with only 10% coconut and 5% castor I didn't up my superfat. When I tried the faux seawater in other high oleic recipes, I still superfatted according to my coconut oil amount, which I think 15% was max, so my SF was only around 2-3%.Now I would like to try making some variations of it using the faux sea water, olive oil, coconut oil and castor oil and I am wondering if those of you who have made variations of it had kept the zero superfat as in Zany’s original recipe or increased it because of other oils added. Your advice will be much appreciated. Thanks!
That's exactly what mines were a month old, and I was very skeptical they would ever get better (I hate slime). But they did. Will be curious to hear your experience too in a couple of months!I tried a bar that was 3 weeks old... and it was super slimy. I mean i could scrape the slime with my finger and looked like gelly. The rest of the bars are still there waiting to cure some more to see how they behave in a few months. But on the bright side the bar lasted qute a bit for its size and was quite hard until the last little sliver. It was 100% OO the one that is a mix of virgin and refined, and it only had FO and a bit of mica for color. No changes to the original recipe.
So "real" saltwater with additional bicarb? Can't recall if anyone in this thread has tried that...Has anyone tried this with actual sea-water? Or ocean water? Just wondering.
Go for it, Kiwi!Your thoughts @Zany?
Thanks, Zany! I'm going to try this base recipe this weekend. Appreciate that you took the time to share!This is a tried and true recipe that I've made several times. Others have tried it with excellent results. Be sure to keep the bar high and dry between uses by using a soap-saver-type soap dish. Tweak to your heart's delight! (Like, do I even need to say that?! )
ZANY’S NO SLIME OLIVE OIL CASTILE
Ingredients: Olive oil, water, sea salt, sodium bicarbonate.
1) MAKE FAUX SEAWATER - Use for water portion of the lye solution.
1 quart warm water
1 Tablespoon sea salt
1 Tablespoon sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
I make up a quart at a time and store it in the fridge until I need it.
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2) MAKE LYE SOLUTION - Mix and allow to cool to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F).
1.7:1 Water to Lye Ratio (Note decimal and colon)
0% Super Fat/Lye Discount
Notes: I’ve tried 2:1 and 1.5:1. 1.5:1 gets almost too hard and 1:2 is okay but a bit slimey, so, for me, 1.7:1 is the ideal. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables; so 0% SF works best to reduce slippery slime.
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Prepare lye solution and set it in the sink to cool. Weigh olive oil into soap pot. Warm to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F). Combine when lye and oils are within -12°C (10°F) of each other. SB on and off to emulsion stage (5 - 25 minutes, depending on grade of olive oil.) Slowly pour into mold. Tap to remove bubbles. Spritz lightly with alcohol. Cover with plastic wrap. Insulate. Leave soap undisturbed for 12-24 hours.
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UNMOLD in 12-24 hours
CUT Day 2
CURE Ready to ship in 2 weeks. 6 weeks is best. The longer the cure the better the soap.
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Unscented, this soap is suitable for babies, sensitive skin, and for cancer patients undergoing radiation. Add 5% castor oil and 10% coconut oil for bubbles and an even milder soap.
If adding fragrance, add 0.85 oz. FO or 0.5% EO /PPO (Per 500 grams) to the castor oil an hour or so ahead of time (or overnight) and a teaspoon PPO of dry ingredient of choice -- corn starch, oat flour, arrowroot powder, White Kaolin Clay, etc. -- to help “stick” the fragrance.
VARIATIONS: Infuse Calendula Petals (yellow) or Bay Leaves (green) in oil ahead of time. Strain. Use up to 40% in the batch to add mildness and color.
I know, it's too late because I haven't been here in a while but what did I see first on my vist? Yep, denim soap. As far as a name I like "Favorite Jeans" or "Denim Dreams" or "Faded But Fabulous". I love jeans.Faded blue jeans ... the ash and colour are perfect together Kiwi!
That looks just beautiful! Love your scent combo. I was just sitting here pondering making another batch of Zany's recipe today, but with my real sea water. I was thinking maybe lemongrass and lemon EOs, and leaving it uncoloured.I tried Zany's soap too! I made a 500 g recipe. My variations: I went with the 10% coconut oil and 5% castor oil. I also used 2% beeswax (I love how smooth it makes my soap and it really prevents soda ash) and the olive oil was 83%. I scented it with a litsea - lime EO blend. Thanks, Zany!
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