What soapy thing have you done today?

[Mobjack Bay]

I attempted a Ciaglia soap today. I certainly hope it looks better out of the mold than it does in the mold. I couldn't get the old shreds broken up very small at all, and my fragrance thickened really fast. It looks so nasty and chunky right now.

I think the chances are good that your soap will look nice, but perhaps a bit more like confetti soap (?).

Depending on the temps and other methods you used to make the Ciaglia soap, the below tips may or may not be helpful. When I make Ciaglia soap I usually use shreds at 30% of total fat weight, heat the oil/fats to 150 F, add the shreds, stick blend a bit and then let the mixture sit and cool off for a few hours to help soften the shreds. The cooling off time is going to depend on the batch size and I wouldn't hesitate to heat the mixture up a bit again if it cooled off before the shreds had softened up. I've also had luck softening very dry/hard shreds by spritzing them with distilled water the night before I make the soap. I just leave them in a covered bowl to soften up over night. Finally, even though I routinely use 40% lye concentration, I stick with 33% for Ciaglia soaps.

 

[MrsZ]

I think the chances are good that your soap will look nice, but perhaps a bit more like confetti soap (?).

Depending on the temps and other methods you used to make the Ciaglia soap, the below tips may or may not be helpful. When I make Ciaglia soap I usually use shreds at 30% of total fat weight, heat the oil/fats to 150 F, add the shreds, stick blend a bit and then let the mixture sit and cool off for a few hours to help soften the shreds. The cooling off time is going to depend on the batch size and I wouldn't hesitate to heat the mixture up a bit again if it cooled off before the shreds had softened up. I've also had luck softening very dry/hard shreds by spritzing them with distilled water the night before I make the soap. I just leave them in a covered bowl to soften up over night. Finally, even though I routinely use 40% lye concentration, I stick with 33% for Ciaglia soaps.

Thank you for the tips! I have enough shreds for another Ciaglia attempt. When I try it again I'll definitely follow your suggestions. My soap doesn't look awful, but as you said, it definitely looks like a confetti soap.

Why do you lower your lye concentration so much for Ciaglia soaps?

 

[Vicki C]

I visited my local Hobby Lobby and looked at the soapmaking stuff there. I found a new loaf mold! It's the same size as the one I use l the time (32oz oils, 35% lye concentration) and it was only 8.99.

View attachment 80063

I like those molds - I won one for free on a spin the wheel thing at the HSCG conference and I use it all the time.

 

[MrsZ]

I like those molds - I won one for free on a spin the wheel thing at the HSCG conference and I use it all the time.

Nice! You can't beat free soaping supplies! I haven't used this one yet, but it's almost identical to my favorite mold that cost me closer to $30. In fact, I was getting ready to order another and am so happy to have found this one.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

Why do you lower your lye concentration so much for Ciaglia soaps?

In addition to keeping the shreds at 30% of total fat weight, the greater batter volume at 33% lye concentration helps to keep the mixture more fluid.

 

[MrsZ]

In addition to keeping the shreds at 30% of total fat weight, the greater batter volume at 33% lye concentration helps to keep the mixture more fluid.

Ah, that makes sense. Thank you!

 

[Elise]

I cut the shea-oat soap I made for Christmas. i know I'm very late . But I realised only a few days ago that not everyone will like my aleppo style soaps (I myself love the scent, but my partner find that it smells like an ashtray and I know it's common that people think that about bayberry oil). I also made a GM soap scented with verbena EO but I won't have enough for everyone.
So... this last batch will come with a warning to store it for a couple of weeks before using.
I plan to bring them all in a basket to Christmas diner and let people chose the one they like best.

This one will be "marketed" as very mild and rich. It has 30% shea butter, and 20g colloidal oat for 900g of oils.
I colored part of the batter with cocoa powder in order to mimic the different shades of beige and light brown we can see on rolled oats but I think I over did it. I was hoping for something more subtle, I hope it will mellow out.
Also It has a purple hue. I kind of remember that the purple goes away with curing but am not sure. Can anyone confirm ?

Will tidy them and maybe stamp them later today.

 

[TashaBird]

Put em in boxes to make a set they said. It’ll be pretty they said. I timed it. It takes me 3 minutes to assemble one box. Just assemble!! Not even pack and label. Thats 2 hrs 25mins!! It’s so hard making the time these days! But I am happy with how the boxes look for my Star Trek soap trilogy! And I painted a ton of bath bombs. I’m really trying to get them ready in time for holidaze! It’s so hard working full time again. Next year I’ll start in June!!

 

[MrsZ]

Your soaps and bath bombs look incredible, @TashaBird !

 

[Elise]

I cut the shea-oat soap I made for Christmas. i know I'm very late . But I realised only a few days ago that not everyone will like my aleppo style soaps (I myself love the scent, but my partner find that it smells like an ashtray and I know it's common that people think that about bayberry oil). I also made a GM soap scented with verbena EO but I won't have enough for everyone.
So... this last batch will come with a warning to store it for a couple of weeks before using.
I plan to bring them all in a basket to Christmas diner and let people chose the one they like best.

This one will be "marketed" as very mild and rich. It has 30% shea butter, and 20g colloidal oat for 900g of oils.
I colored part of the batter with cocoa powder in order to mimic the different shades of beige and light brown we can see on rolled oats but I think I over did it. I was hoping for something more subtle, I hope it will mellow out.
Also It has a purple hue. I kind of remember that the purple goes away with curing but am not sure. Can anyone confirm ?

Will tidy them and maybe stamp them later today.

View attachment 80068View attachment 80069

I cleaned them up and stamped them. They are scent free, since I wanted to make it for sensitive skins, but as a Christmas gift, it might be a bit boring. So I dipped my stamps in golden mica, so they look at least a bit festive. I wasn't very consistent in my placement, but I find that it elevate the look of the soaps quite bit.
Do you have tips for making the mica stick more to the soap ?
Stil crossing my fingers for the brown to lighten so they look more like what I pictured in my head

 

[Mobjack Bay]

@Elise try steaming the soap. that always works well for me.

 

[AliOop]

@Elise Very pretty, and I love that they are unscented! I looked up the French; it is Shea Oats, oui?

 

[melinda48]

Put em in boxes to make a set they said. It’ll be pretty they said. I timed it. It takes me 3 minutes to assemble one box. Just assemble!! Not even pack and label. Thats 2 hrs 25mins!! It’s so hard making the time these days! But I am happy with how the boxes look for my Star Trek soap trilogy! And I painted a ton of bath bombs. I’m really trying to get them ready in time for holidaze! It’s so hard working full time again. Next year I’ll start in June!!

Nice!

 

[Elise]

@Elise try steaming the soap. that always works well for me.

Like just before stamping ? I will next time !

@Elise Very pretty, and I love that they are unscented! I looked up the French; it is Shea Oats, oui?

Exactly ! Stamping them in English would have been easier. French needs so much space...

 

[TashaBird]

Quick question. I usually cure my soaps for 6 weeks. But I’ve got some 4 weeks old and I need em to get going! I use national biofilm. They’re DEF dry cause I have had them in w bath bombs w a small dehumidifier. Is it ok to go ahead and package them? Thanks y’all!! Santa’s workshop is a hectic over here, but I’m getting there!! Folding these boxes almost did me in!! But they’re sure pretty!!!

 

[AliOop]

Quick question. I usually cure my soaps for 6 weeks. But I’ve got some 4 weeks old and I need em to get going! I use national biofilm. They’re DEF dry cause I have had them in w bath bombs w a small dehumidifier. Is it ok to go ahead and package them? Thanks y’all!! Santa’s workshop is a hectic over here, but I’m getting there!! Folding these boxes almost did me in!! But they’re sure pretty!!!

Very nice! I'd go ahead and package them unless they still feel too soft for your liking.

 

[Misschief]

Quick question. I usually cure my soaps for 6 weeks. But I’ve got some 4 weeks old and I need em to get going! I use national biofilm. They’re DEF dry cause I have had them in w bath bombs w a small dehumidifier. Is it ok to go ahead and package them? Thanks y’all!! Santa’s workshop is a hectic over here, but I’m getting there!! Folding these boxes almost did me in!! But they’re sure pretty!!!

I usually let mine cure for four weeks minimum before selling, except for my Salt Soap. That one cures for up to three months before I wrap it.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

Like just before stamping ? I will next time !

I steam after I stamp the soap or otherwise add mica or glitter, but I also dampen the soap in advance by spraying it lightly with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I never tried steaming before stamping, but that’s an interesting idea. My soaps are sometimes too firm to stamp, which I’ve attributed to using 40% lye concentration. Now I’m wondering if steaming the soap in advance would make hard soap easier to stamp. Thanks for the idea!

 

[melinda48]

Quick question. I usually cure my soaps for 6 weeks. But I’ve got some 4 weeks old and I need em to get going! I use national biofilm. They’re DEF dry cause I have had them in w bath bombs w a small dehumidifier. Is it ok to go ahead and package them? Thanks y’all!! Santa’s workshop is a hectic over here, but I’m getting there!! Folding these boxes almost did me in!! But they’re sure pretty!!!

I cure for 4 weeks and never have a problem.

 

[Elise]

I steam after I stamp the soap or otherwise add mica or glitter, but I also dampen the soap in advance by spraying it lightly with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I never tried steaming before stamping, but that’s an interesting idea. My soaps are sometimes too firm to stamp, which I’ve attributed to using 40% lye concentration. Now I’m wondering if steaming the soap in advance would make hard soap easier to stamp. Thanks for the idea!

Or maybe that makes the stamp stick to the soap and that's a terrible idea.

Steaming after stamping is something I can still do ! I'm away from home for a while but I will do that when I'll be back. Thank you