What soapy thing have you done today?

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Did you add any color to that or is that the wine color?

@The Park Bench I think since it's dish soap it doesn't need to get milder nor does it need to get much harder than it already is so it might not need a long cure. I was planning to cure mine maybe 2wks - that's if I remember to make em lol

I'm running out of lard! :(
My supplier is missing - can't find him anywhere and I'm super bummed so all I did that's related to soap these past few days is look for lard.
Try soapers choice! Super fast shipping! ... shipping is not cheap 😬 though 🤪
 
Try soapers choice! Super fast shipping! ... shipping is not cheap 😬 though 🤪
I'm not in the US sweets :)

I made two batches of Christmas themed soaps today. I'll post em in the gallery when cut, with a story. Hint: They are based off local rice cakes people make and sell on the road side during Christmas season.
 
I think the bottom of the hearts might have gelled because I put them on top of the bucket that’s wrapped in a heating pad where the columns are, then covered all with a blanket. The hearts were blue inside, and only real green on the surface. I’m going to make design today that I don’t care if it’s blue or green, using the same savage garden, but I’m going to add some yellow, and a little neon green. I’ve read in a NS thread on FB that this could anchor the green. Either way, it’ll be pretty in my not-Christmas soap. My batter is light, with a egg white color, I used 1 1/4t mica per .65lbs off soap. (If my math is right) I think this is about 1.5-1.75t PPO. ?

I suspect that dye is added to that mica, probably the Chromium Oxide Green to give it that shade of color.

pH affects micas made with dye (see this link)
1601729193381.png


So my guess would be that Chromium Oxide Green is created by adding dye to the mica and it is the pH of soap that is making it morph. I'd send a message to Carrie & kindly ask her for direction in choosing a mica that will not morph, but will retain it's green shade when your soap gels. (Contact NS link)

Also of interest, and possibly another clue is this (see link):

Heat effects pH. As heat increases, pH decreases. So that may explain why your columns of soap have no green and only blue, but your heart soap has green. They heated up more, thus lowering the pH enough to cause the blue morph in color. ?? Just a guess on my part, really, but it seems to be what happened.

Did you read all the reviews & pay particular attention to the images posted by the reviewers? I see photos as well as some do mention the blue tint to their soaps. So even though it is a 'green' it does look fairly blue in several of the photos I looked at in the reviews. At least a couple of reviewers noted that their Fragrance Oil (specified which ones) altered the color of Savage Green, so there is another possible suspect that can influence this mica.
 
I'm running out of lard! :(
My supplier is missing - can't find him anywhere and I'm super bummed so all I did that's related to soap these past few days is look for lard.

It was announced a few months ago that Walmart is expanding to the Philippines, perhaps they will stock lard. They do here in the US. The brand names and sizes of containers of lard are not consistent in all stores. Some carry 25 and 40 pound tubs of the stuff; some only stock 1-pound blocks. Some of the brands they carry at varying stores around the US are: Armour brand, Morrell brand, La Preferida brand, El Mexicano brand. (They may carry be more brands; I have not been in all Walmart stores.)

Anyway, if they build a Walmart near you, it might be a new place for you to source lard.
 
I made a batch of soap today - a remake of one I've made before and for the first time since I started soaping, this loaf cracked big time! Hoping after it hardens that I can somehow repair it. Any suggestions? I cpop'd and when it reached temp I shut it off and when I put the loaf in the oven, my thought was it seemed warmer than normal and of course the oven was already off so no way to know for sure.

So I did some research on how to fix cracks which seems simple enough but it doesn't seen to be working for me. When I took it out of the oven, the loaf had 'risen' like it was contemplating doing the volcano thing. Trying to push it down wasn't doing anything and I didn't want to ruin it anymore so I covered it and let it sit overnight. This morning the top has flattened and the crack is smaller but it is quite deep in one area. I tried the baggie/saran wrap trick and alcohol and it wasn't doing anything - not even to the fine crack.
Should I have tried to fix while it was still 'hot'? Thanks for any tips/advice.
 
Oh no... I just remembered that one of my piping tips taped to my squeeze bottle fell out INTO my pull through soap at the top. It sunk all the way in... this is going to be an interesting cut.
Those tips are not wanting to stick with the tape the way they used to.
Edit: Really remembering today that I made a bunch of rookie mistakes last night. Soaping when tired and buzzed is just not worth it! Wish I’d waited. Still hopefully I at least get some fun results from my experiments.
And I’m back to making individual soaps w my left over batter from the squeeze bottles because I’ve got too much soap dough.
 

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Welll, dang it! The soap turned out ok. But the experimental design, not so much. Let’s say abstract vs iconic art? Hahaha! It was worth a try.
Pull throughs gonna do, what a pull through is gonna do.
Also, when you’re dressed to go out, but can’t wait to cut your soap.
 

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I made soap today! Just my simple tallow based soap, and I *thought* I was making a 2 lb batch. Poured into my mold and it's only half full. What!?! Instantly I am concerned that I have measured something wrong. I double check my check marks ... nope, it's all good. I just wasn't paying attention when I grabbed my recipe. I had printed it out as a 1-lb batch last night. Changed my mind this morning and wanted to make a 2 lb batch. Except all I did was grab a different mold - never thought about reprinting the recipe. :rolleyes:

Scraped out the mold into a smaller one and all is well.
 
Should I have tried to fix while it was still 'hot'? Thanks for any tips/advice.
This is another question that would be best answered by starting a new thread... so that others may benefit from the advice as well. My best advice is to figure out what caused the crack and don't do that any more. 🤣

Scraped out the mold into a smaller one and all is well.
Good thinking! Great save!
 
Love the Steal Your Face. Wonder how much the design will change when you soap not tired and not buzzed.
It actually technically turned out well. Nice defined layers and lines. The plates just don’t always translate to the images intended.

I suspect that dye is added to that mica, probably the Chromium Oxide Green to give it that shade of color.
Edit: sorry, tried to add this to other reply.

pH affects micas made with dye (see this link)
View attachment 50180

So my guess would be that Chromium Oxide Green is created by adding dye to the mica and it is the pH of soap that is making it morph. I'd send a message to Carrie & kindly ask her for direction in choosing a mica that will not morph, but will retain it's green shade when your soap gels. (Contact NS link)

Also of interest, and possibly another clue is this (see link):

Heat effects pH. As heat increases, pH decreases. So that may explain why your columns of soap have no green and only blue, but your heart soap has green. They heated up more, thus lowering the pH enough to cause the blue morph in color. ?? Just a guess on my part, really, but it seems to be what happened.

Did you read all the reviews & pay particular attention to the images posted by the reviewers? I see photos as well as some do mention the blue tint to their soaps. So even though it is a 'green' it does look fairly blue in several of the photos I looked at in the reviews. At least a couple of reviewers noted that their Fragrance Oil (specified which ones) altered the color of Savage Green, so there is another possible suspect that can influence this mica.
I put the columns in a bucket wrapped in a heated blanket, I leave it on high for a few hours, not super hot, but not sure exactly the temp. I do want to force gel. Do you think a lower temp would be more green?
 
I put the columns in a bucket wrapped in a heated blanket, I leave it on high for a few hours, not super hot, but not sure exactly the temp. I do want to force gel. Do you think a lower temp would be more green?
I don't really know. It was just a thought. Personally I wouldn't even bother attempting to avoid gel in a PVC pipe mold. I would just switch out that mica for another one or mix it with some yellow to counter the blue it likes to become. But I'd run some color tests in smaller less intricate batches, possibly doing several different individual molds to try different ratios of yellow to savage green in a solid bar, keeping careful notes for each. And CPOP to ensure gel.
 
Welll, dang it! The soap turned out ok. But the experimental design, not so much. Let’s say abstract vs iconic art? Hahaha! It was worth a try.
Pull throughs gonna do, what a pull through is gonna do.
Also, when you’re dressed to go out, but can’t wait to cut your soap.
Turned out awesome!

I cut my first ever soap today!!! I'm in love with soap making! So... Should I reduce my water to get rid of the glycerin rivers ext time? I don't mind them, just wondering!
Pretty!
 
Well, it was a fun learning experience. Sunset ombre in rounded oval molds (black/blue/purple/pink/orange/yellow). First time using boiled-down apple cider as full liquid instead of half, first time using powdered sugar, first time trying to ombre, and first time with this recipe: 15%ea cocoa, Shea, mango, and Coconut, 33% avocado and 7% castor. I was shocked how fast it emulsified, and stood there whisking in disbelief. Also my first time with WSP Snowflake Sparkle FO as well, but I'm pretty sure the acceleration I encountered was me and the butters. The last color (yellow) didn't settle in as well for some, so swirling to hide the bumps covered some of the other colors for those. Also infused my oils with ground Slippery Elm bark, so between that and my sugars, my batter was orange. The lye hasn't finished correcting the batter back to white yet, but it's working on it. A little ash on top, because I didn't gel it immediately (this is 6 hours after pour.)
 

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Sunset ombre in rounded oval molds (black/blue/purple/pink/orange/yellow). First time using boiled-down apple cider as full liquid instead of half, first time using powdered sugar, first time trying to ombre, ... I'm pretty sure the acceleration I encountered was me and the butters.
Remember? Sugar or anything with sugar is a "heater" and tends to not only accelerate but also turns the soap to tan or brown. Probably not a good addition to an ombre soap with multiple colors. ;)
Also infused my oils with ground Slippery Elm bark,
Interesting! I've read about Slippery Elm bark being used as an antioxidant to extend the shelf life of oils. I've never tried it. If you don't mind my asking, where did you pick up that tip? Do you have a link you can share?

ETA: Nature's Garden has it, althought it doesn't specifically mention its antioxidant property, it's worth a read. Who knew? Certainly NOT me! :smallshrug:
https://www.naturesgardencandles.com/slippery-elm-bark-class.html

Scroll down to "Bath and Body Products"
 
Made, unmolded and cut my first batch of solid dish soaps today while I waited for more coconut oil to arriveView attachment 50166. Wow did they get hard fast! What is the best cure length/ time for them?
I just use the first one and let the others cure - after all it's dish soap, it doesn't have to be mild - and if it doesn't last so long, well, that's okay. I don't use any color in my dish soap.

I made some Confetti Soap - I have soooo many soap scraps and I'm sick of rebatching!
2E59738B-6620-4FB9-A460-A2267778CD64_1_105_c.jpeg
 

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