Thank you! FYI - they are already in the photo gallery, I just put that one there to humour you. Can't have you gettin' bored!Girl, those are gorgeous. Seriously look like real river rocks! I'm in love and now looking for a new project lol
Thank you! FYI - they are already in the photo gallery, I just put that one there to humour you. Can't have you gettin' bored!Girl, those are gorgeous. Seriously look like real river rocks! I'm in love and now looking for a new project lol
No need to make a separate solution; simply add the appropriate amount of bicarb and sea salt directly to your oat milk. I did the math for that in this thread, and came up with this way to add those ingredients when using master-batched lye: I multiply my total recipe water number by 1.9% to determine the amount sea salt needed for this recipe, and by 1.7% to determine the amount of bicarb.Made an oatmilk Bastille soap with the ZNSC method! After reading some threads on the subject I decided to give it a go. I'll go more in detail about the process when I post the pictures, but in a nutshell: my plan was to use frozen distilled water cubes for a 1:1 lye + chilled oat milk for the .7, until I realized I forgot to include the faux sea water in that equation. I made a very concentrated solution and had to do an ice bath anyway.
What I'm thinking of doing for tomorrow is: make a concentrated faux water solution, freeze it, and do the same. All in all, it went better than I expected in spite of the blunder.
I thought of doing that, but since the thread mentions warm water, I assumed (should've done the research) that the salt and bicarb would dissolve best in warm water. My oat milk was already chilled, and heating it would've cause it to thicken. Will the salt and bicarb dissolve alright in cold liquid?No need to make a separate solution; simply add the appropriate amount of bicarb and sea salt directly to your oat milk. I did the math for that in this thread, although I must warn that the amount of sea salt will vary a bit depending on the grain size of your chosen salt.
You are correct, it dissolves better in a warm liquid. I just warm up an ounce or two of my additional liquid to dissolve the bicarb and sea salt, along with the citric acid and sorbitol that I use in all my soaps.I thought of doing that, but since the thread mentions warm water, I assumed (should've done the research) that the salt and bicarb would dissolve best in warm water. My oat milk was already chilled, and heating it would've cause it to thicken. Will the salt and bicarb dissolve alright in cold liquid?
My salt is fine grain.
Your post was moved to the Photo Gallery where photos should be posted.WHO MOVED MY POST ?
To show your support of @Relle's efforts to get everyone to post pictures where they belong, just post them there then add a link to the photo gallery here.@Relle That's funny. I added a picture for a couple of users here that came across to me as doubters because they couldn't "SEE" what I was saying.
@Zany_in_CO I'm glad that we all are aware of that!To show your support of @Relle's efforts to get everyone to post pictures where they belong, just post them there then add a link to the photo gallery here.
Relle, I don’t know where to find them.And we all know where to find them, don't we .
Click on “Forums” at the top of the page and scroll to “Soap Showcase and Photo Gallery”Relle, I don’t know where to find them.
Thx in advance for the assistance.
Jan
Gosh, I feel you. I too was making some really lovely soaps and some of my family were actually fighting over who was getting them! And my father just said, "no thanks, I got some from a friend of your sister's that smell really pretty." I was just so disappointed. Those pretty smelling soaps were hotel amenities that someone had gotten from their job. I rarely scent my soaps because I can't afford to do it. However, no one on my father's side has problematic skin, and they live in a part of that country that is warm and humid so they don't necessarily feel the need to use "special" soap.Just returned from a quick trip to my hometown. Very grateful that Sis no longer displays my soap but actually uses it. Sis and BIL are not fans of my pine tar salve experiment, which is fine, it's a strong scent.
Awhile back my dad was very clear that I no longer need to give him my soap anymore. He keeps one of my bars on the guest bath sink. It's old and starting to get DOS. I looked in a drawer, and hoo boy, found soap 2-3 years old, all with DOS and smelling not so fresh. Erg. I've been so open on how improved my skin is, kinda puzzled why he refused to be converted....
The soapy thing today, yesterday, the day before ... Ergamagerd! ... I'm anxiety-ridden over making my first shaving soap! I can't seem to make myself go to my sawhorse table to just start.
I would look at the shave soap recipes posted by @Professor Bernardo and @Johnez. Some good stuff there.Can someone direct me to where I can find some assistance?
Wow, there is so much in this post! Thank you. The cultural reference around pork was fascinating. My parents were children of the Great Depression and I know it had a generational effect (tin foil and bread bags were used until they fell apart). I did not start soaping until after my grandparents died and I would have loved to talk to them about their homemade soap. My dad said his mother's homemade soap was pretty harsh and caustic. They couldn't afford to buy shampoo either and used dish soap or soap soap.Gosh, I feel you.
I've never used glycerin so can't be of much help, sorry. My scale only goes to whole grams. I round down to the nearest gram if it calls for 0.1 to 0.4 and round up if it calls for 0.5 to 0.9. Grams are so small, don't worry about it.I've already decided that I'll make a modified @songwind recipe but instead of the 2 ingredients, I'll make it with 4: 50% SA, 30% CO76F, 10% Castor/Vit E, 10% Cocoa Butter, the 7% SF will be Glycerin and 850g of total oils. The 7% of glycerin should be 59.5g, but would it be ok to make it 60g?
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