What advice would you give to your beginning soaping self?
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jcandleattic
Well-Known Member
For me, and I know a lot of this has probably already been covered, but if I could go back 15 years, and give myself advice about soaping with what I know now is this:
-Always wear protection, (goggles, gloves, etc.,) at all times when there is a presence of lye around.
(Many people have heard my story about when there was a freak explosion down the street from me when soaping one time - if not, just ask, I'll start a thread about it - I WAS wearing protection, thank goodness because TRUE accidents do happen)
-Don't panic with an acceleration or seized soap. There are plenty of things to counter this if/when it happens. I used to freak out, panic, make things worse and end up in almost tears. Now, it's just like, oh, poo, okay here we go to fix it...
-Don't be afraid of color - I used to use tiny tiny little portions of color and could never understand why my colors would fade to almost nothing, or not be as bright as I anticipated. Now I use much more, and always get the colors I'm after (for the most part) but not so much it colors/stains wash cloths.
-You really don't NEED a lb of every fragrance you want to try, even if the price per lb is cheaper by the ounce than buying a sampler. When I first started I would always buy lb quantities of every fragrance I would purchase, sure I would "use it all fast" - no. Don't do that. Also, just because there is a sale on FO doesn't mean you HAVE to have it. LOL (I know, try telling that to all us FO-HO's!! LOL)
-You do not NEED every new mold out on the market, no matter how well priced, or how much you think you'll use it. I have so many molds that literally just sit there because I used them once, didn't like them, whatever. I literally use my ED molds, and my 5lb log mold and that's about it. (I have about 15 soaping molds - don't need that many!)
-Don't get distracted. If the phone rings while you are in the middle of a soapmaking session, don't answer it. Chances are it isn't going to be THAT important. If the doorbell rings, let them realize you are busy/not going to answer, etc., (I know emergencies do happen, but for the most part, you know what I mean...)
-Don't soap drunk or high. This seems like a no brainer, and no, I don't have experience with this, and have never done this, so basically I didn't need this advice when I started, but have heard stories and just cannot imagine the danger, and to help others thought I'd throw this out there - especially since recreational marijuana is legal where I am, and most likely will be around the nation within the next 5-10 years.
-Don't peek at your soap while it's "resting" - it will become soap without you looking at it every 5 minutes to make sure it's doing its thing. LOL I used to always unwrap my soap to look at it to make sure it was gelling, or doing, whatever, and it's just not needed. Now with more experience, I literally forget about it until it's time to cut the next day or day after. One time I literally did forget about it for like 4-5 days, and though it was going to be impossible to cut. It cut fine, it was just a little stiffer than usual, and I just had to go slower...
I think that's all the beginning advice I can think of at the moment, but I'm sure there is more I wish I would have told myself back then.
-Always wear protection, (goggles, gloves, etc.,) at all times when there is a presence of lye around.
(Many people have heard my story about when there was a freak explosion down the street from me when soaping one time - if not, just ask, I'll start a thread about it - I WAS wearing protection, thank goodness because TRUE accidents do happen)
-Don't panic with an acceleration or seized soap. There are plenty of things to counter this if/when it happens. I used to freak out, panic, make things worse and end up in almost tears. Now, it's just like, oh, poo, okay here we go to fix it...
-Don't be afraid of color - I used to use tiny tiny little portions of color and could never understand why my colors would fade to almost nothing, or not be as bright as I anticipated. Now I use much more, and always get the colors I'm after (for the most part) but not so much it colors/stains wash cloths.
-You really don't NEED a lb of every fragrance you want to try, even if the price per lb is cheaper by the ounce than buying a sampler. When I first started I would always buy lb quantities of every fragrance I would purchase, sure I would "use it all fast" - no. Don't do that. Also, just because there is a sale on FO doesn't mean you HAVE to have it. LOL (I know, try telling that to all us FO-HO's!! LOL)
-You do not NEED every new mold out on the market, no matter how well priced, or how much you think you'll use it. I have so many molds that literally just sit there because I used them once, didn't like them, whatever. I literally use my ED molds, and my 5lb log mold and that's about it. (I have about 15 soaping molds - don't need that many!)
-Don't get distracted. If the phone rings while you are in the middle of a soapmaking session, don't answer it. Chances are it isn't going to be THAT important. If the doorbell rings, let them realize you are busy/not going to answer, etc., (I know emergencies do happen, but for the most part, you know what I mean...)
-Don't soap drunk or high. This seems like a no brainer, and no, I don't have experience with this, and have never done this, so basically I didn't need this advice when I started, but have heard stories and just cannot imagine the danger, and to help others thought I'd throw this out there - especially since recreational marijuana is legal where I am, and most likely will be around the nation within the next 5-10 years.
-Don't peek at your soap while it's "resting" - it will become soap without you looking at it every 5 minutes to make sure it's doing its thing. LOL I used to always unwrap my soap to look at it to make sure it was gelling, or doing, whatever, and it's just not needed. Now with more experience, I literally forget about it until it's time to cut the next day or day after. One time I literally did forget about it for like 4-5 days, and though it was going to be impossible to cut. It cut fine, it was just a little stiffer than usual, and I just had to go slower...
I think that's all the beginning advice I can think of at the moment, but I'm sure there is more I wish I would have told myself back then.
MorpheusPA
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Organize before the lye hits the oils. I set up my color(s) and scent(s), all ready to go at emulsion or trace and merely have to pour out of the small glass bowl into the soap.
Temperature isn't that important--usually. Unless you're doing a swirl or a complex swirl, it doesn't really matter if the temperature is 100° or 130°. And the lye and oils definitely don't have to be the same temperature, or even close. For one-color, simple scent soaps, I've soaped as hot as 150° to move the lard recipe along.
Temperature is important when swirling or doing a complex design. For a chunky drop swirl, soap warm. For a delicate cirrus-cloud-like swirl, soap cold and only mix to emulsion.
Read the description on colors and scents. Words you don't want to read are "morphs," "accelerates" and "rices." I have several micas that warp to gray or ugly browns in CP soap and a few scents that are unusable as they cause soap on a stick.
Keep children, spouses, and animals out of the soaping area. They'll distract you. Guaranteed.
Don't be hasty to unmold. Solidification takes time, and I hate breaking an oval soap and causing a damaged edge just because I unmolded too early.
There's no such thing as a color or scent error. You meant to do that. Give it a clever name and people will adore it--they can't see the image you had in your head.
Every batch can be saved. Hot Process Hero from Soap Queen will save almost every batch of soap if you can figure out what went wrong.
Temperature isn't that important--usually. Unless you're doing a swirl or a complex swirl, it doesn't really matter if the temperature is 100° or 130°. And the lye and oils definitely don't have to be the same temperature, or even close. For one-color, simple scent soaps, I've soaped as hot as 150° to move the lard recipe along.
Temperature is important when swirling or doing a complex design. For a chunky drop swirl, soap warm. For a delicate cirrus-cloud-like swirl, soap cold and only mix to emulsion.
Read the description on colors and scents. Words you don't want to read are "morphs," "accelerates" and "rices." I have several micas that warp to gray or ugly browns in CP soap and a few scents that are unusable as they cause soap on a stick.
Keep children, spouses, and animals out of the soaping area. They'll distract you. Guaranteed.
Don't be hasty to unmold. Solidification takes time, and I hate breaking an oval soap and causing a damaged edge just because I unmolded too early.
There's no such thing as a color or scent error. You meant to do that. Give it a clever name and people will adore it--they can't see the image you had in your head.
Every batch can be saved. Hot Process Hero from Soap Queen will save almost every batch of soap if you can figure out what went wrong.
DianaMoon
Well-Known Member
I have a bottle of Rooto lye and a small apartment. I wrapped the bottle in two plastic bags & put it on the top shelf of my living room closet. Is this a good idea?
I did not store it under my sink because I often have drips (don't ask, I rent) and it's humid in there anyway. It's humid in my bathroom and I don't want to shower, etc., in a place where there is something so potentially dangerous.
I did not store it under my sink because I often have drips (don't ask, I rent) and it's humid in there anyway. It's humid in my bathroom and I don't want to shower, etc., in a place where there is something so potentially dangerous.
penelopejane
Well-Known Member
Diana moon you are panicking about lye.
If you just take normal, sensible precautions you will be fine.
It has been used for decades to clean ovens, unblock drains and making soap.
Having said that I would store it somewhere you can get to without looking up at it, not above head height.
Dissolve it in a sink and store it sensibly away from children in its original packaging but do not panic about having it in the house. After you’ve successfully made ten batches you will realise it is just a chemical that you have control over.
If you just take normal, sensible precautions you will be fine.
It has been used for decades to clean ovens, unblock drains and making soap.
Having said that I would store it somewhere you can get to without looking up at it, not above head height.
Dissolve it in a sink and store it sensibly away from children in its original packaging but do not panic about having it in the house. After you’ve successfully made ten batches you will realise it is just a chemical that you have control over.
Last edited:
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Thanks, Zany, for bumping this. I enjoyed reading all the tips. I would have discovered this forum BEFORE I started soaping! Thrift stores and dollar stores are your friends for equipment. Take notes on your recipe right after you pour into your mold. If you are a perfectionist, be gentle with yourself and tell yourself that it's a learning experiment. Receivers of your soap are generally very excited to get homemade soap and don't see your disappointing glycerin rivers, partial gel, etc.
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
You're welcome, Zing. Well said.
Chrissa Harmon
New Member
My advice to soap-making rookie me would be to PLAN OUT THE ENTIRE PROJECT IN ADVANCE. I used to make messes and get myself into stressful situations by changing my mind about what colorants and essential oils I would use during the project, and oftentimes after my soap batter was already made. This led to wasted time, frustration, and often more soapy dishes than necessary. Now, I plan the entire project in advance, laying out every container and utensil I will need, measuring out all my additives, and mixing all my essential oils as my first step. This prevents a lot of stress! Happy Soaping!
If using plastic cups like solo or bathroom cups the fo will eat through them in no time. You’ll hav FO all over
Dawni
Well-Known Member
Lye is not scary. Sometimes. Lol
Wash with water and not vinegar if an accident occurs and you get lye on your skin. Vinegar is ok for utensils, counter tops, etc.
Always dissolve your salt and sugar in your liquid before adding sodium hydroxide (I HP).
You will not always get the named stages while your batter is in the slow cooker so don't overcook your soap while waiting for said stages (pudding, mashed potato, vaseline, etc.) that won't appear.
You don't need to wait til the very end Vaseline stage before you pour because it sometimes might be too late. Semi-translucency is enough coz saponification will continue in the mold.
Do not invest in soap loaf molds if they're expensive where you're from because milk cartons work like a dream (smooth sides and edges even for HP) and so do Pringles cans. Besides, recycling is always better and those are no longer single-use lol (technically)
Unlined Pringles cans can be reused if you let the soap harden enough (no soap stuck on mine, twice) before pushing it out. That means you'll need a small hole at the bottom that you cover up while the soap inside is still wet. And, gravity is your friend. I held mine upside down long enough and the soap slid out lol
I'm sure over time I'll have a lot more to add here since I'm still a newbie to soaping but see what all I've learned just being here!
Wash with water and not vinegar if an accident occurs and you get lye on your skin. Vinegar is ok for utensils, counter tops, etc.
Always dissolve your salt and sugar in your liquid before adding sodium hydroxide (I HP).
You will not always get the named stages while your batter is in the slow cooker so don't overcook your soap while waiting for said stages (pudding, mashed potato, vaseline, etc.) that won't appear.
You don't need to wait til the very end Vaseline stage before you pour because it sometimes might be too late. Semi-translucency is enough coz saponification will continue in the mold.
Do not invest in soap loaf molds if they're expensive where you're from because milk cartons work like a dream (smooth sides and edges even for HP) and so do Pringles cans. Besides, recycling is always better and those are no longer single-use lol (technically)
Unlined Pringles cans can be reused if you let the soap harden enough (no soap stuck on mine, twice) before pushing it out. That means you'll need a small hole at the bottom that you cover up while the soap inside is still wet. And, gravity is your friend. I held mine upside down long enough and the soap slid out lol
I'm sure over time I'll have a lot more to add here since I'm still a newbie to soaping but see what all I've learned just being here!
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
One thing I'd tell my new-to-soapmaking self would be... don't be afraid to ask questions. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people in this forum; pick their brains. They love to share. And along with that, don't be afraid of critique from those knowledgeable people; they're only trying to help you get better.
Carl
Well-Known Member
Small batch size!
This way you waste less!
This way you waste less!
nonna oakie
Active Member
I need an answer about spritzing alcohol on bars of soap to get rid of the forming soda ash: Do you spry it on the wet soap batter, or after you
see it forming on the bars after a few days of curing?
see it forming on the bars after a few days of curing?
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