Tryna be decorative
- Thread starter Nonnie
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Super cute!
Nakia
Member
Your soap looks great! For M&P, I’ve found working in layers and letting each one set slightly before pouring the next helps with clean designs. A spritz of rubbing alcohol between layers also prevents bubbles and keeps them smooth.
Only the the colored portion is m&p, so not much depththere for layers lol. Each color was done for each mold before moving to thenext one. Because it was so thin, I didn't have time to scrape it level. It is definitely an art to working with it. And lots of patience required lol
Hi @Nonnie,
Your soap is beautiful. I am a little confused as to what parts are CP and what parts are MP.
Regardless, I used to do a lot of MP, before I took the CP plunge, so here are my notes on layers.
1) If using a clear plastic Milky Way type mold, you don't want your soap to be over 145 F or the mold may warp. This does not apply to silicone molds which take much higher temperatures. Also, keep in mind that you want the liquid MP soap at least 125 F or it starts to solidify.
2) Prepare soap for 1st layer and pour. In this case your designs - honeycomb, bees, sunflower, etc. Let 1st layer cool to at least 90 F. This doesn't take long with this type of layer.
3) Meanwhile can begin melting soap for the next layer. In this case the bulk of your bar. This needs to cool to 125 - 130 F, so it won't melt the previous layer. Stir and check temperature often.
4) While step 3 is cooling and once 1st layer has solidified enough, scrape around design with a soap scraper or small paring knife to clean up soap that ran over the design.
5) Once your 2nd layer has cooled to 130 F, liberally spritz the first layer with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IA). Then immediately pour in the 2nd layer. I like to pour in a space between the designs, just in case my soap is a little hot.
6) Immediately spritz with IA to get rid of air bubbles.
7) Let sit 12 - 24 hours before unmolding.
Final note: Low Sweat MP does not layer well. It works fine as a solid soap or as an embed for either MP or CP, but if you try to layer it, the layers will separate.
Your soap is beautiful. I am a little confused as to what parts are CP and what parts are MP.
Regardless, I used to do a lot of MP, before I took the CP plunge, so here are my notes on layers.
1) If using a clear plastic Milky Way type mold, you don't want your soap to be over 145 F or the mold may warp. This does not apply to silicone molds which take much higher temperatures. Also, keep in mind that you want the liquid MP soap at least 125 F or it starts to solidify.
2) Prepare soap for 1st layer and pour. In this case your designs - honeycomb, bees, sunflower, etc. Let 1st layer cool to at least 90 F. This doesn't take long with this type of layer.
3) Meanwhile can begin melting soap for the next layer. In this case the bulk of your bar. This needs to cool to 125 - 130 F, so it won't melt the previous layer. Stir and check temperature often.
4) While step 3 is cooling and once 1st layer has solidified enough, scrape around design with a soap scraper or small paring knife to clean up soap that ran over the design.
5) Once your 2nd layer has cooled to 130 F, liberally spritz the first layer with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IA). Then immediately pour in the 2nd layer. I like to pour in a space between the designs, just in case my soap is a little hot.
6) Immediately spritz with IA to get rid of air bubbles.
7) Let sit 12 - 24 hours before unmolding.
Final note: Low Sweat MP does not layer well. It works fine as a solid soap or as an embed for either MP or CP, but if you try to layer it, the layers will separate.
The only m&p is the colored portion. The main bar is cp. Thank youfor the tips!
I am not trying to be difficult, but the picture I am seeing has color throughout. The background is purple; the bees and honeycomb are gold; the flowers are brown, gold, blue and green based on the picture showing in my tablet. That's why I am confused when you say that only the colored portion is MP.
The flowers/ bees/ honeycomb. The indented section of the mold that made the designs. It is m&p. The purple is cp.
So this was all one mold, not M&P embeds made separately? I think they are very cute soaps. If you are giving them away, the recipients will be happy 
Yep, one mold. And thanks!So this was all one mold, not M&P embeds made separately? I think they are very cute soaps. If you are giving them away, the recipients will be happy
Thank you, now it is clear for me.
akseattle
Well-Known Member
@Nonnie, I did M&P for about a year before trying cold process. I think your soaps look fine. I can see that the gold smeared a little in certain places. I always found it easier to scrape away the excess AFTER the soap had cooled a little. If I tried to clean it up while the base was still not, it had a tendency to leave little smears like I see on a few of yours. So, I would suggest scraping the excess AFTER the batter cools.
One thing I like about M&P is the detail and precision that can be achieved. I've wondered if I could do the details of a mold with M&P and then pour the body of the bar with cold process. So, it looks like you've done exactly that! I'm kind of excited to try that now!
One of the things that has stopped me from trying this combo of details with M&P and then the rest CP is that I'm nervous about the M&P sweating. I did buy some low sweat M&P just before I start CP. So, I haven't actually used my low sweat M&P yet.
Can you let us know if the melt and pour detail on your soap starts to sweat after a couple days?
Anyway, nice soaps!!
One thing I like about M&P is the detail and precision that can be achieved. I've wondered if I could do the details of a mold with M&P and then pour the body of the bar with cold process. So, it looks like you've done exactly that! I'm kind of excited to try that now!
One of the things that has stopped me from trying this combo of details with M&P and then the rest CP is that I'm nervous about the M&P sweating. I did buy some low sweat M&P just before I start CP. So, I haven't actually used my low sweat M&P yet.
Can you let us know if the melt and pour detail on your soap starts to sweat after a couple days?
Anyway, nice soaps!!
I'll keep an eye on them as they cute and see if any bead up. I did consider painting the color onto the m&p but didn't know how it took to it, so, I just colored each section as needed. I did wait to scrape the color when they had cooled, but squishy silicone didn't cooperate lol
akseattle
Well-Known Member
@Nonnie , up to now, I have only used silicone molds.
Except I recently bought a plastic pig mold because it was so cheap and I thought it would be cute. It was REALLY hard to unmold, unlike silicone which is a breeze. But, scraping off the excess was so-o-o-o easy!
I do have some silicone molds that are a little on the soft side and give me a little bit of the squishy silicone problem you had.
Except I recently bought a plastic pig mold because it was so cheap and I thought it would be cute. It was REALLY hard to unmold, unlike silicone which is a breeze. But, scraping off the excess was so-o-o-o easy!
I do have some silicone molds that are a little on the soft side and give me a little bit of the squishy silicone problem you had.
EricDavis
New Member
I totally get you! M&P can be quick but CP definitely gives more design options. For M&P, try using a heat gun to melt evenly and add colorants at the right temperature to avoid bubbles. Your soap looks great though! Keep experimenting!
akseattle
Well-Known Member
@EricDavis , I'm not sure I understand the heat gun thing. Do you microwave your base and THEN use a heat gun?
Or do you use only a heat gun? Actually, I just googled " heat gun." is that like a hair dryer without the air?
It's more like a hair dryer on steroids lol. It gets much hotter. Some use them to level off lip balms, misc balms, other poured items when they sink in the middle after setting up. I use with my shrink wrap too.
akseattle
Well-Known Member
Very interesting. I think I'll stick to the old microwave method...
