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I will try one more time.

Firstly, you misunderstand what the calculators are doing, and I encourage you to do a couple of sets of calculations by hand. Make the changes you want to make, and recalculate. By hand. You'll figure out why the constants are kept.

Secondly, again you are really misunderstanding changing water. You say 'reducing water' as if someone would want to whimsically lower the water amount from 175g to 150g. That is not something anyone would do. What we would do is change the ratio specifically to get a change in how the soap performs. Changing that ratio has the effect of lowering the water. Now here comes your big misunderstanding: this is where you've recognized the "problem" and want to change the oil amount. That automatically changes the lye amount and you're back at the original lye concentration you started with! Jiggering around with the amounts as you want to obviates the very reason anybody would change water in the first place. The whole argument isn't wrong, it's just useless.
 
I will try one more time.

Firstly, you misunderstand what the calculators are doing, and I encourage you to do a couple of sets of calculations by hand. Make the changes you want to make, and recalculate. By hand. You'll figure out why the constants are kept.

Secondly, again you are really misunderstanding changing water. You say 'reducing water' as if someone would want to whimsically lower the water amount from 175g to 150g. That is not something anyone would do. What we would do is change the ratio specifically to get a change in how the soap performs. Changing that ratio has the effect of lowering the water. Now here comes your big misunderstanding: this is where you've recognized the "problem" and want to change the oil amount. That automatically changes the lye amount and you're back at the original lye concentration you started with! Jiggering around with the amounts as you want to obviates the very reason anybody would change water in the first place. The whole argument isn't wrong, it's just useless.

First off, your comment is the exact reason this thread was started and it is for newcomers to come and read what you said.
Secondly, It was also so you can learn because what you just said is actually backwards from what is really happening. It only took me a sec to calculate what you said because of my advantage which is what all soapers should do actually.
You stated that I would be back at the original lye concentration if I change my oil: That is where you have it backwards.
Lye concentration is calculated @ lye/100. The rest is water.
As your water increases or decreases, the ONLY thing you effect is your total amount (besides the texture and consistency that you want). It will effect your water:lye ratio. The only way to counterbalance your total amount from changing is by adjusting your oil and therefore your lye. It does not effect water:lye ratio. Raising or lowering your oil amount does not effect any ratios except for counterbalancing the effect of your total amount that was effected by you adding more or less water.
Take time out to put everything you know on a recipe spreadsheet and not a store bought one pre-made. You will now know answers like that in about 1 second vs. years.
Oh yeah, and speaking of the constants. The constant values you speak of are the oils and lye amount that are needed. Those remain the same on a soap calc. But if you notice, your total amount will change and you are no longer pouring the original value that you wanted. That is because of the
counterbalancing issue that I speak of. My spreadsheet does the same. But I have the advantage of changing the oil amounts and seeing very quickly that it changes no values EXCEPT to counterbalance what adjusting the water did to effect your total amount. So in conclusion, you are not back where you started. You are at a new beginning and are actually able to adjust the amount of oil in your loafs without interfering with anything else and that is including your texture!
 
First off, your comment is the exact reason this thread was started and it is for newcomers to come and read what you said.
Secondly, It was also so you can learn because what you just said is actually backwards from what is really happening. It only took me a sec to calculate what you said because of my advantage which is what all soapers should do actually.
You stated that I would be back at the original lye concentration if I change my oil: That is where you have it backwards.
Lye concentration is calculated @ lye/100. The rest is water.
As your water increases or decreases, the ONLY thing you effect is your total amount (besides the texture and consistency that you want). It will effect your water:lye ratio. The only way to counterbalance your total amount from changing is by adjusting your oil and therefore your lye. It does not effect water:lye ratio. Raising or lowering your oil amount does not effect any ratios except for counterbalancing the effect of your total amount that was effected by you adding more or less water.
Take time out to put everything you know on a recipe spreadsheet and not a store bought one pre-made. You will now know answers like that in about 1 second vs. years.
Oh yeah, and speaking of the constants. The constant values you speak of are the oils and lye amount that are needed. Those remain the same on a soap calc. But if you notice, your total amount will change and you are no longer pouring the original value that you wanted. That is because of the
counterbalancing issue that I speak of. My spreadsheet does the same. But I have the advantage of changing the oil amounts and seeing very quickly that it changes no values EXCEPT to counterbalance what adjusting the water did to effect your total amount. So in conclusion, you are not back where you started. You are at a new beginning and are actually able to adjust the amount of oil in your loafs without interfering with anything else and that is including your texture!

LOL

:headbanging:

:headbanging:

:headbanging:

:headbanging:
 
I appreciate the link. I will definitely read it. But I can tell you now that the only thing that adjusting your oil does is counterbalancing the effect of adding or reducing water does to your total amount. It does not change your water:lye ratio and therefore it does not change the consistency that you want to achieve. That is where the deceiving part comes into play by the lye calculators. It does nothing to effect anything except to maintain the total amount that you want in your soap loaf. As a result, without adjusting your oils, when you are adding water you are taking away the soap chain and reducing or increasing your total amount if you do not adjust your oils.
I'd like to repeat one more time to clarify. Water:lye ratio effects texture of soap and I agree but it will also affect your total amount by increasing or decreasing. You will clearly see that on a soap calc by adding the values yourself when you change the water:Lye ratio. Adding more oil and lye counterbalances only the total weight of the soap (of course you have to add more lye and I know this sounds strange). It will not effect your water:lye ratio so therefore you will get the same result that you wanted in the first place but the advantage is that you keep the original weight that you wanted while at the same time having the same consistency. Put everything you know on a spreadsheet and you will see for yourself. I made mine show EVERYTHING. Lye values, ratios, total amount, SAP values, Recipe's, Prices that change when I adjust etc. It shows me in a second what takes experienced soap makers years. That is the point of this thread so I hope you take me seriously. While I do have the disadvantage of interior decorating I can definitely move the furniture so to speak.
If you truly want to check this out more this might give you a head start - Water/(water + Lye) equals your ratio. The only thing that effects this ratio is adding and reducing water. NOT counterbalancing with oil + Lye. This counterbalance only puts back the total amount that you wanted in the first place with the same consistency! You might not understand now but if you took time out to make a spreadsheet you will see for yourself at a glance what I am saying. I have learned an incredible amount by this myself.
 
I think you're so wrapped up in defending this now that you're no longer listening. You spent the entire last post where you quoted me ignoring my point.

So if it works for you, enjoy.

But I will come out and say to any other new folks who might be reading this thread: Ignore it. Listen to DeeAnna and the others of us who know how to make soap.
 
Wasn't it your point that you think that it will change your water:lye ratio by adding more oil?
In fact, if it was, I thank you for that post because that is where many are getting defensive, rude, and may even think that they know it all because that could be where the confusion is coming in. What I mean is, they probably suspected this will affect their ratios but just didn't know how to word it. After all, even you said "That automatically changes the lye amount and you're back at the original lye concentration you started with!". Which is totally not true because you do use a soap calculator (which will not tell you unless you follow the proper tests with it) and you are not seeing the entire picture. Isn't this forum for learning new things? I can most definitely provide proof that it will not effect the consistency of your soap nor will it effect your water:lye ratio. Don't you want to produce more soap with the same water:lye ratio that you like? Maybe it is you that need to learn. You should humble yourself and do the work because I can tell you have just depended on lye calculators too much. And mostly, doing this I have learned too. Not from other soapers but I have learned even more from comments like yours because I actually checked it out like you said and found out that adjusting your oils will not affect your water:lye ratio to change the consistency of your soap. It only restores your total quantity back to what you wanted in the first place!

Not sure if that was for me. If you're responding directly, quoting the post or at least putting the user name is in a good way of making sure that someone else doesn't think it's aimed at them when it isn't, especially with lots of posts in a thread.

But, my secret? Balanced recipes of water-filled mushy bars, apparently. My oil weight is fixed and my solution strength is usually the same. As the lye needed for different recipes varies, my total water in relation to my oils will of course be different. I don't mind that, as there is some room for play in my mould. People I give the soap to (I don't sell) consistently ask me when I'm making more. In your case, if repeat customers aren't coming, I would say that bars made trying to optimise the actual soap content of the bar from the start don't seem to have that.

What can you do? Well I don't know if it's your recipe in general, or if these Max-Soap-No-Water bars are good to use. Or maybe it's the customer care aspect.

I can't tell you, because you're too busy fighting a corner for something odd and quite specific to how you soap.

Bringing me back to the point of your thread. YOU had an issue with it. YOU had an issue with some other terminology as well. That does not make it s complete block to new soapers as a rule, just because of how you (mis) understand the terms used. But you're getting a lot of push back here because we were all new soapers once, and now we all make good (or even great) soap (but with repeat customers) and those new members who have issues with water are encouraged on to the more useful solution strength or ratio options and they seem to also make consistently lovely soaps using it.

So I don't think, and I get the feeling that many people don't think, that this information is a)useful, b) needed, and c)helpful in how it is presented generally (examples, topic title and how the original post didn't make the goal clear)

Do you remember in 2015 when you didn't know what "SF" meant and how other members were "Snarky" at you? That is how I feel introducing what some may not realize.
But through the comment of another member I have realized where the confusion is coming from. I understand a certain water:lye ratio to produce a certain consistency that you like is good. I am not calling your bars mush and I understand why you say that but the confusion is coming from the thinking that raising or decreasing your oil will affect you water:lye ratio.
It will give you the same ratio that you want but it will increase the total quantity of soap in your mold instead of decreasing it. If you notice on a lye calc, as you change your water:lye ratio's the total volume will increase or decrease from original amount. The only thing adding more oil does is counterbalance your total quantity. It does nothing to affect your water:lye ratio. In other words, you will produce the same mushy bars but just more of it; lol.
 
Stalker, much?

And yet I've come from that total starting point to where I am now without your startling, game changing piece of information, which is why (yet again) you are getting push back. You're framing it as this piece of information which is of the utmost importance, which it isn't really, for a great deal of people in the majority of situations
 
When you've finished, could you publish the math? :mrgreen:

I've been mucking about with mine for a while (it's a pick-up and put down job, because I keep on adding ideas to what I want out of it ... and then wonder just how huge it's supposed to be :think: )

My current thought ... I've decided I need to account for the space that dividers take up in slab molds. And so I went "seriously?!" at myself, and put it back down again (for a while, until I just have to finish that one ... tiny ... modification).

Publish the math to what? How much oil you need in a batch to enter into a soap calc.
If that is what you are talking about then try this.
Put your dividers up against the walls of your mold.
Then measure width, height and depth.
The amount of oil that you will need is W X H X D X .40
.42 is what I use but it will be close enough for you.
 
Again, I say it seems like you are hung up on counterbalancing the total batch size if you want to adjust your water amount but it's not that important.

I couldn't even tell you what the total size is of my batches. I know I need 16 oz of oil for my small molds and cavity molds, 24 oz for my silicone loaf and 3 pound for my big mold.

There is enough room in said molds to increase or decrease water without have to balance anything. I get the same amount and same sized bars every time.
 
Meh, what the heck. I'm gonna jump in here, though I may regret it.

I think you're trying to make a mountain out of a few grains of dust. For the life of me I can't figure out why you're so hung up on changing the water amount in a recipe.

You want to keep a constant final total and you're surprised that changing one parameter affects the others? Um, I could have told you that was going to happen without all the chest beating and melodramatics. I can also tell you that it doesn't really matter.

As a brand new soaper, I was not the least bit confused or mislead by the results I got when calculating a recipe in SoapCalc. Not even when I had to fiddle to work out how much oils, water, and lye I needed to make enough soap batter to fill my molds. I was also unsurprised when changing the amount of oils in my recipe caused the amounts of lye and (gasp!) water to change.

One thing I will agree with is that the 'water as a percent of oils' option needs to go away. THAT one is confusing to new soapers, and doesn't seem to serve any actual useful purpose.

(And regarding your argument about 'how much soap is in a bar', lemme blow your mind. 90% of everything, is nothing. Quite literally empty space. The negligible amount of water left in a bar of cured soap can't even begin to compete. Just think how much more soap you could get into a bar if you could just eliminate all that pesky empty space inside the atoms!)
 
98.6% agreeable

iwannasoap, I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of soap calculators. They exist as a convenient way to calculate lye amounts per oil amount to make a soap of a specified superfat, nothing more. It is not "deceptive" for the initial weight of the batter to vary with changes in water content, it's just the calculation done to produce the correct specified soap. If you change the inputs, the "output" will vary, and as far as I can tell (I'm a professional chemist) all the commonly referenced calculators are quite accurate.

Water evaporates, fatty acid salts and fats/oils do not, so the finished weight of the soap will be the same for any given weight of oil and lye. If you add more water, you get more weight and volume during processing, but the final cured soap weight will be only the weight of the oils used, the glycerine produced by saponification, and the sodium or potassium added as lye plus the water at equilibrium with the environment. All soap recipes contain much more water than ends up in the cured soap, and they all lose weight -- if you add more water when making it, more evaporates during cure. Final water content will be pretty much the same for any reasonable range of initial water amount used to make the soap.

Reducing the oil and lye weight to get some exact initial batch weight (or volume) will result in less soap when it's cured.

More water doesn't produce more soap, it produces the same amount of soap with more water in it, and that water will evaporate during cure.

"Gel" is the condition where a colloidal suspension of soap fatty acids forms in water, much like gelatin forms a colloidal suspension in water to make "Jello". If there is not enough water present for the soap crystals to become suspended in colloidal form, you won't get "gel phase" no matter what the temperature is. The more water present, the lower the temperature at which gel phase occurs, which is why high water recipes gel more easily. Therefore, if you want to avoid partial gel, low water helps.

As far as longevity in use, that depends on state of cure, fatty acid profile, and how dry the soap gets between uses. "New" soap has a lot of excess water and will be softer than fully cured soap, and therefore will be easier to rub into lather. Lots of easily lathered fatty acids (lauric and myristic) will "dissolve" faster too, so lots of coconut oil or palm kernel oil will make soap that is shorter lived in use. And finally, a soap dish that holds water will soften home made soap much faster than commercial triple milled soap, and softer soap doesn't last as long as harder soap.

I really appreciate your input and your time first off! While I am not a chemist and I cannot repeat what you said as eloquently I am aware of these things but what I can offer is from a programmers perspective and how the soapers calc only allows for differences by reducing or adding to the total quanity. Therefore a soaper does not learn the other aspects of calculating like knowing how to increase oils while still maintaining the water ratio you wanted. I have seen it in people's responses and they are using spell checker too much. Follow me here please because I would like you to explain a sort of contradictive statement that you made afterwards.

Starting from the beginning;
I know what a soap calc is because I can create the same thing. But my argument is that a soap calc is like a spell checker. The more you use it the more you forget to spell (which is my problem right now with spelling lately!)
1. By increasing or decreasing your water it will decrease or increase you total amount. That is IT! That is all that you will learn because that is all that you see. So, like a spell checker, you forget things like "I thought I wanted 50 oz of soap? Why is it 46 oz. now?"
2. To retain that same original quantity, just like you might want to retain the same quantity at your work in a flask, you have to change the oil amount. Which of course changes your lye to get back up to 50 oz.
3. As a consequence of calcs not doing that, people think that increasing your oil will affect your water:lye ratio that you wanted to use to get a certain consistency out of their soap. Wrong! Not true. Adjusting your oils if you played with the water:lye ratio only counter balances and puts you back up to the original weight that you wanted.
Let me clarify - When you select multiple tabs and then calculate different percentages, it only adjusts your total weight when in actuality it should loop the entire process all over again to give you what you entered in the first place. Which is calculate lye, water, and oils. But it doesn't. So, the end result is that a user does not realize that their water:lye ratio does not change. They think it does but it does not. They will have the same consistency but more soap if they just go back and add more oil to compensate for the loss in the total amount!
4. I perfectly understood final water content and I agree with you but water, as you know, never turns into soap so if a soaper understood exactly how to add more oil and keep the same water:lye ratio back into the recipe to adjust for its shortcomings then that same bar you speak of will have more soap not water and will last longer. As for the coconut and palm you speak of, thanks, I will definitely experiment with that!
5. More water doesn't produce more soap is also what I have been saying but I keep getting shot down.
6. Reducing the lye amount goes hand in hand with .5. I don't do that either. I want the most soap for my bar.
7. Now for the confusing part that sounds contradicting. I really would like a further explanation.
You said "The more water present, the lower the temperature at which gel phase occurs, which is why high water recipes gel more easily. Therefore, if you want to avoid partial gel, low water helps."
The last sentence makes sense and that is what I do. I have even been shot down already for saying the same thing and that I am ignorant.
But how it is contradictory with the first statement is that the first statement gels easier at higher water(I would say it is not easier because it is likely to fail precisely due to the second statement and it will not get as hot so as a result it will cool faster. That is why you get partial gel ) but the second statement says basically lower water has more of a success rate at gelling. I agree totally with that because lower water allows for more lye and oil in the same space .

My whole point is that using the soap calc people are forgetting the basics and are making assumptions that simply are not correct so as a result they are NOT adding more oil to compensate because they think it will mess with their Lye:water ratio which has a lot to do with the consistency that they want.
Additionally, there is no guarantee by the way that what they are superfatting with is actually what is left over. Oils saponify at different rates so when a SF of 5% of Shea is added to Olive oil soap. Forget it. You just wasted your money!
 
Quote:
Publish the math to what? How much oil you need in a batch to enter into a soap calc.
If that is what you are talking about then try this.
Put your dividers up against the walls of your mold.
Then measure width, height and depth.
The amount of oil that you will need is W X H X D X .40
.42 is what I use but it will be close enough for you.

This value is incorrect for the International System of Units.
How Australia's Measurement System Works: http://www.measurement.gov.au/measurementsystem/Pages/HowAustraliasMeasurementSystemWorks.aspx

I have already received a reply from the person I originally quoted, but thank-you anyway.
 
My whole point is that using the soap calc people are forgetting the basics and are making assumptions that simply are not correct so as a result they are NOT adding more oil to compensate

No, they are not adding more oil to compensate for lower water because they aren't concerned with a tiny variance like that.

That is something you are overlooking, no one else is as concerned about total batch size being exactly the same every single time or trying to get the most soap as possible in each bar (is that even a thing beyond the molecular level?)

Oh, we already know you can't choose which oil remains as SF in CP. That's why you HP if you want a specific oil as SF
 
It is the exact same for hot process. Hot process changes nothing!

Again, I say it seems like you are hung up on counterbalancing the total batch size if you want to adjust your water amount but it's not that important.

I couldn't even tell you what the total size is of my batches. I know I need 16 oz of oil for my small molds and cavity molds, 24 oz for my silicone loaf and 3 pound for my big mold.

There is enough room in said molds to increase or decrease water without have to balance anything. I get the same amount and same sized bars every time.

You will get the same size for now. But water does not turn into soap so a year from now how much will it weigh versus a bar with more soap in it. Soap weighs more then water.
What if you wanted to increase the oils to keep that from happening while at the same time keeping your water:lye ratio that you like? What do you do then?
 
Meh, what the heck. I'm gonna jump in here, though I may regret it.

I think you're trying to make a mountain out of a few grains of dust. For the life of me I can't figure out why you're so hung up on changing the water amount in a recipe.

You want to keep a constant final total and you're surprised that changing one parameter affects the others? Um, I could have told you that was going to happen without all the chest beating and melodramatics. I can also tell you that it doesn't really matter.

As a brand new soaper, I was not the least bit confused or mislead by the results I got when calculating a recipe in SoapCalc. Not even when I had to fiddle to work out how much oils, water, and lye I needed to make enough soap batter to fill my molds. I was also unsurprised when changing the amount of oils in my recipe caused the amounts of lye and (gasp!) water to change.

One thing I will agree with is that the 'water as a percent of oils' option needs to go away. THAT one is confusing to new soapers, and doesn't seem to serve any actual useful purpose.

(And regarding your argument about 'how much soap is in a bar', lemme blow your mind. 90% of everything, is nothing. Quite literally empty space. The negligible amount of water left in a bar of cured soap can't even begin to compete. Just think how much more soap you could get into a bar if you could just eliminate all that pesky empty space inside the atoms!)
A year or so down the road your going to wonder why the bar you made now is just not lasting as long. Then come back and say the same thing.
 
Last try:

Many people, myself included, make batches based on oil weight. All things considered, the amount of water and lye doesn't vary massively - even switching between a 100% OO or a 100% CO soap, a 1000g batch has a total batch size variance of 152 g at 30% solution strength, only 100g of which is water. It really doesn't matter to most of us.

In fact, if you want to be making a set amount of actual soap, by lowering your oil amount to allow for more water you are in fact making less soap in total.


..............The last sentence makes sense and that is what I do. I have even been shot down already for saying the same thing and that I am ignorant.
But how it is contradictory with the first statement is that the first statement gels easier at higher water(I would say it is not easier because it is likely to fail precisely due to the second statement and it will not get as hot so as a result it will cool faster. That is why you get partial gel ) but the second statement says basically lower water has more of a success rate at gelling...............

You are assuming, in ignorance (but people often take that word as a bad thing, it isn't always, depends on how you are talking whilst in it) that a higher temperature = higher change of gelling. That is false. Because of the phase changes, a soap with more water can more easily change phase even at lower temperatures. The higher temperatures that come from using less water aren't enough to get the soap to change phase when the soap doesn't have that water which itself is needed to change phase.

That's another aspect which doesn't help. Someone states the truth and your response is not worded in a way which indicates you are looking to learn. "You're contradicting yourself now.", "That makes no sense" are totally different than saying "I don't quite follow what you're saying - how can less water mean a hotter soap but then a less change of gelling?". You imply that it can't be right because it doesn't make sense to you, instead of asking the other person to explain in more detail to help you to understand. That is not a good way to come over in any walk of life, especially not on a forum.
 
No, they are not adding more oil to compensate for lower water because they aren't concerned with a tiny variance like that.

That is something you are overlooking, no one else is as concerned about total batch size being exactly the same every single time or trying to get the most soap as possible in each bar (is that even a thing beyond the molecular level?)

Oh, we already know you can't choose which oil remains as SF in CP. That's why you HP if you want a specific oil as SF
It is not total batch size I'm harping on. That is just to show you soap calc's are not calculating all of it the second time you hit the print button so you don't exactly realize WHY all of a sudden has your batch size diminished. I know that you don't care but your customers might, the people you give them to might. In fact for all you know they just might like that bigger bar you give them.
You tell me, how would you increase your oil while still keeping your same water lye:ratio that you like? If you don't know that then your bars might not performing as well as they should.

Last try:

Many people, myself included, make batches based on oil weight. All things considered, the amount of water and lye doesn't vary massively - even switching between a 100% OO or a 100% CO soap, a 1000g batch has a total batch size variance of 152 g at 30% solution strength, only 100g of which is water. It really doesn't matter to most of us.

In fact, if you want to be making a set amount of actual soap, by lowering your oil amount to allow for more water you are in fact making less soap in total.




You are assuming, in ignorance (but people often take that word as a bad thing, it isn't always, depends on how you are talking whilst in it) that a higher temperature = higher change of gelling. That is false. Because of the phase changes, a soap with more water can more easily change phase even at lower temperatures. The higher temperatures that come from using less water aren't enough to get the soap to change phase when the soap doesn't have that water which itself is needed to change phase.

That's another aspect which doesn't help. Someone states the truth and your response is not worded in a way which indicates you are looking to learn. "You're contradicting yourself now.", "That makes no sense" are totally different than saying "I don't quite follow what you're saying - how can less water mean a hotter soap but then a less change of gelling?". You imply that it can't be right because it doesn't make sense to you, instead of asking the other person to explain in more detail to help you to understand. That is not a good way to come over in any walk of life, especially not on a forum.
I did ask him to explain! Because his first sentence said that higher water was more likely to partially gel. His second sentence said to prevent this use lower water. Different words here but same thing. That is a contraction.
You must be walking and too busy attacking with your cell phone rather then reading and knowing I did ask him to explain.
Like I said, 2 years ago you were attacked to.
The whole point of this thread is to use the lye:water ratio that you like and still be able to increase your oil. People who are hooked on calculatores don't know that apparently. Believe me, I'm listening and learning but I am also learning what many so called experts here don't know. For instance, I have already been told there is no chance sugar will not make milk go rancid. This person kindly informed me she was an expert and her soap doesn't need to breathe. Really!
Like I said before, You are kind about it at least but you are on the same side of the fence now as they were to you!
Incidentally, that was not a discouragement. I like to read what you have to say.

By the way, where in the world did you read that I said lowering your oil in the soap is a good thing? Your the second one who has said that and I said no such thing. The closest to that is when I said "increasing or decreasing". What I am referring to is this. When you decrease water you can increase oil. When you increase water you can decrease oil instead of having an overage. Neither of these cases affect your water:lye ratio. If you know what you are doing your lye will adjust to accommodate for the same amount of soap. I did not write that but I cannot write about every little specific thing a person does.
 
I was referring to when DeeAnna and others first mentioned water and gelling. Your response did not invite polite elaboration on the topic!

Again with the sugar, you said that it DOES cause rancidity, with no qualifiers such as in certain amounts and/or conditions. That was what was the issue. It generally comes down to how you formulate things. Also with the breathing topic, people often cover the mould with cling film before the bars are cut. After the cut, they have air to flow around, of course, but that short time in the mould rarely has unwanted side effects.

You come over in a very arrogant way, even when you are wrong about something, which puts people off a great deal. It makes them less likely to read you posts in general
 
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