SMF July 2024 Challenge - Woodgrain Designs

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To enter the July 2024 SMF Challenge, copy and paste these instructions and the entire list into a new post, adding your name and the next number at the bottom.

Sign-up list:
1. katili - this is the kick I need to finally try this technique!
2. Ford - tried once before, it wasn't pretty. Lol
3. Justsomeguy - let the learning begin 😬
4. Zuleika - What wood I do?
5. VickiC
6. Tammyfarms - wood grain soap has been on the list of designs I want to try.
7. ScentimentallyYours - need a scent that sticks and plays nice
8. Ackosel - My husband said he would be disappointed if I didn't try a wood grain soap, so here it goes!
9. SideDoorSoaps - right on time for making my Mt. Fresh soap!
10.DeeBeeSNJ- too excited to try. The cut is quite important with this soap technique, hope I don’t mess that up. 😊
11. VikingChick - I’ve been curious to try this technique!
12.
 
Has anyone used a smaller, square-shaped mold like this? It’s about a 1-lb (440g oil) capacity. I’m thinking of using it for my challenge attempt, but I don’t know if it’ll affect my ability to pour in nice straight lines. Any thoughts?

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Has anyone used a smaller, square-shaped mold like this? It’s about a 1-lb (440g oil) capacity. I’m thinking of using it for my challenge attempt, but I don’t know if it’ll affect my ability to pour in nice straight lines. Any thoughts?

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I plan to use something similar so🤷🏿‍♂️

But I've got covid so no soaping for about 5 days...😷
 
@VikingChick I haven't used a mold quite that small, but I have used a 6" T&S. You should be able to pour straight lines if you tilt the mold and pour down the wall. I don't know how you are planning to pour, but I would only do straight lines of single colors, not a OPW - but this is personal preference. The OPW will produce a more rounded effect on the ends instead of straight lines, which can still have a wood-like appearance.

@justsomeguy I'm sorry to hear you are sick - hope your case is mild and you are feeling better soon!
 
@VikingChick I haven't used a mold quite that small, but I have used a 6" T&S. You should be able to pour straight lines if you tilt the mold and pour down the wall. I don't know how you are planning to pour, but I would only do straight lines of single colors, not a OPW - but this is personal preference. The OPW will produce a more rounded effect on the ends instead of straight lines, which can still have a wood-like appearance.

@justsomeguy I'm sorry to hear you are sick - hope your case is mild and you are feeling better soon!
Thanks!
 
Has anyone used a smaller, square-shaped mold like this? It’s about a 1-lb (440g oil) capacity. I’m thinking of using it for my challenge attempt, but I don’t know if it’ll affect my ability to pour in nice straight lines. Any thoughts?

View attachment 78177
That's what I used. My lines were fine, but like Dibbles said, the ends were rounded. My trace got away from me the first time, so that might have something to do with it. I'm going to use the small mold again, this time shooting for a thinner trace.
 
First attempt is COP’ing away! I ended up using this small TS mold that I picked up at Hobby Lobby a while ago. It’s about 10” long. My trace was beautiful, but I got so caught up in my pouring that I forgot to make any knots until I was almost done. 🤦🏻‍♀️ However it turns out, though, it’ll smell good, lol.
 
I'll start out the "failure" pictures with what happens when you overblend to medium trace instead of thin. I used a 4" square mold, and you can see how the ends of the pour rounded instead of being nice and sharp. You can also see where layers hardened before I finished the pour. LESS STICK BLENDING NEXT TIME!
 

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First attempt is COP’ing away! I ended up using this small TS mold that I picked up at Hobby Lobby a while ago. It’s about 10” long. My trace was beautiful, but I got so caught up in my pouring that I forgot to make any knots until I was almost done. 🤦🏻‍♀️ However it turns out, though, it’ll smell good, lol.
I've done that - most recently for the tutorial 😂 Knots aren't necessary to achieve a nice woodgrain look, but they are kind of fun. Looking forward to seeing your soap!
 
I'll start out the "failure" pictures with what happens when you overblend to medium trace instead of thin. I used a 4" square mold, and you can see how the ends of the pour rounded instead of being nice and sharp. You can also see where layers hardened before I finished the pour. LESS STICK BLENDING NEXT TIME!
I think they look pretty great!
 
I'll start out the "failure" pictures with what happens when you overblend to medium trace instead of thin. I used a 4" square mold, and you can see how the ends of the pour rounded instead of being nice and sharp. You can also see where layers hardened before I finished the pour. LESS STICK BLENDING NEXT TIME!
Those colors are fantastic!
 
when you overblend to medium trace instead of thin
What's the best trace to pour woodgrain? I tried thin trace and it looked good when pouring but turned out too muddled. Or could it be I'm pouring too little when I make my passes?

Attempt 1 - Random ash parts covering up woodgrain. Possible entry.
Attempt 2 - FO sped up too fast. Unpourable. Scooped into mould for a layered look. Ineligible to enter.
Attempt 3 - Used same colours as #2 but no FO. Too thin, colours all muddled.
Attempt 4 - Turned out like #1 but less ash. Possible entry.

#2
Attempt 2.jpg


#3
Attempt 3.jpg
 
What's the best trace to pour woodgrain? I tried thin trace and it looked good when pouring but turned out too muddled. Or could it be I'm pouring too little when I make my passes?
I think light trace is ideal to start pouring. As soon as you know you have a stable emulsion, you can split your batter and color it and then wait for the trace you want. Which can be a hard thing to do.

How are you pouring? Single color lines from different pitchers or an in the pot kind of technique? Speed can also make a difference. I think both of the videos I linked show real-time speed.

I like both of your soaps. The first one might not be woodgrain, but it's pretty cool.
 
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