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yes, the longer the better. I use 50% in my standard recipe and it's best after 6 months of cure. Really worth it though!
Make sure you discount some water so your soap hardens up a little faster in the mold.
 
I've been married for 40 years in March and disagree about men becoming better with age.
I would like to thank everyone for sharing their recipes.
My hand lotion recipe is very easy to make
24 oz distilled water
1.2 oz emulsifying wax
1.2 oz cosmetic grade stearic acid
I put the 3 above ingredients in a pyrex measuring bowl and microwave it until melted, then add
4.0 oz jojoba oil
1.0 oz glycerin
with a hand mixer ( I buy them at second hand stores) I whip until mixed very well. If you mix too long it will froth.
the recipe calls for .3 oz germaben 11, a preservative but I was told it is not a good preservative to use. I use .2 oz of cosmocil CQ and .2 oz of natrasorb 100
.3 oz of an essential oil
I whip all of this up again and let cool slightly, whip again before adding to lotion containers. I have made this recipe for about 10 tens. A couple times it separated after it was cooled. NOT A PROBLEM. Just melt and whip again! I hope anyone who tries it, likes it as well as my family and friends. Kathy
 
I figured out my favorite recipe after I find this forum. Before I "came" here I was cooking only small amounts of soaps (well... really small amounts) and with lye prepared in my faculty lab by technicians.

After I red your posts I figured out why I never couldn‘t achieve to make the same soap twice. My batches were just too small and I couldn‘t play with ingredients.

I made a lot of soaps last month and I finally achieved the quality of soap I was searching for.

So here is the recipe:

10% lard
40% olive oil
20% palm oil
25% coconut oil
5% unrefined beeswax

Lye discount 5% at start, it reaches the 7 - 10% discount, depending on what ingredients I put after the soap is cooked.

I add extra amount of water at the start so the soap is easy to work with.

I also add a tablespoon of sea salt in the lye water before adding the lye. It makes soap to be very consistent.

Despite I am using the HP process I find that it is VERY important to wait for oils and lye to cold on 40 - 50 degrees Celsius before mixing it together. I first mix them well with spoon and than I am using a blender.

After achieving only the light trace I put the pot in the oven at about 100 degrees Celsius. After 15 minutes I lower the heat at 70 degrees Celsius.

The soap is cooked usually after one or two hours, depending of it amounts.

After the soaps is cooked I leave it for half an hour to calm and to get colder, steering it occasionally. After it is cold enough for me to handle it on my hand without getting burned, I add the yoghurt (about 10% of whole water amount ) and Aloe Vera gell (the same amount as youghurt).

After few minutes of steering I add oils for supperfatting. My favorite oil to add is castor oil but I like the grape seeds oil as well though it has short life and these soaps should be used within 3 months.

At the and I am adding my EOs and FOs. My favorite combination is Patchouli-Orange-Lemon-Vanilla, but this is not the part of recipe but rather matter of your individual preferences.

If I want to make swirls I separate an amounts of soap after adding all common ingredients, and than add to it natural color, cacao powder or whatever.

After cutting this soap has to cure for few days since it has extra liquid and needs some time to get ride of it.

The vegetable version of this soap you can make by replacing lard with same amount of hard vegetable oil. But I prefer to replace it partly coconut oil (50% of lard amount) and partly with lower grade olive oil.

The soap is creamy and silky, yet hard enough not to dissolve quick... and it makes great lather.

That‘s it. I would probably never make it without great help from people here. So, thank you all :D
 
Yes, I agree with sweetcreekherbs, I use pretty much only the old fashioned recipes - I've tinkered around with other recipes, but this one's my favorite. Only, instead of olive oil, I use lard. One thing I've noticed is to use extremely precise measuring. A digital scale is a must. You're right It's excellent soap and very good on sensitive skin. To see peoples testimonials click on this link http://www.pollyannaswhitelye.com.
 
zee said:
I love my "old faithful"

30% coconut
20% palm
50% olive pomace

I take a 5 % lye discount. I use this for my face and body. I have two little ones and this formula works for them too, this is what I call a great family type bar, as it works for everyone.

this sounds great. although i havent had the problems i've heard people say that they get dry skin with coconut over 20 percent. so thats been my limit for a while now.

any thoughts?
 
For face soap, bathing, shampoo, and all round mildness, I quite like

95% EVOO and 5% Castor oil at 5% Superfatting.

I use room temperature oils, and use a lye-water ratio of 1:1.


Easy and reliable. :)
 
Shea Hand Soap

This is one I got off the web and I adjusted it to fit 2 wooden moulds that measure 13 1/4" x 3 3/4" x 2 3/4". Line your moulds and I found you have to unmould and cut this one warm, as it sets super-hard when cold. It last well in the shower and it lathers beautifully. [for new soapers,this recipe is weighed, do not measure volume, so have a good set of digital scales].
3 lb 2 oz Extra Virgin Olive Oil [if you want your soap pure white, use light
olive oil]
1 lb 4 oz Coconut Oil
1 lb 4 oz Palm Oil [you could substitute lard etc]
...............
1 lb 8 oz Distilled Water or Rain Water
14 oz Lye
...............
I added 2 oz of Sage E.O. and it smells devine.
When you combine these at 45C or 113F degrees and it comes to light trace, add 10 oz Shea Butter.
I hope you like this one as much as I do.
 
Following is my favourite shop recipe
Honey Bee CP Soap

Olive Oil 32 oz.
Palm Oil 16 oz.
Tallow 24 oz.
Totals 72 oz.
5% Superfatted Lye Amount 9.477 oz.
Ounces of water recommended 23.760 oz.

At trace, add fragrance and 1 Tablespoon of Honey. Do not insulate your soap as the Honey may cause your soap to superheat.
 
I sincerely dislike people who come into forums just to post their silly links!! No money from me!
 
Coconut lime soap

Does anyone have a nice recipe for a coconut lime soap, I have tried making one with coconut lime verbena fragance and some dried coconut for texture, and substitute some coconut milk for water, but not totally happy with it. any suggestions
 
I developed this recipe to "use up" the oils from two other recipes I'd been making. I like this better than either of the originals. It is a fairly hard bar with nice lather, and with a lye discount of 6%, it doesn't dry my skin out.

Kelley's Use It All Up Soap

Coconut oil 13% 110 g
Olive oil 37% 320 g
Palm Kernel flakes 26% 220 g
Shea Butter 24% 200 g

Water 230 grams (it is roughly 2:1 water/lye ratio)

Lye 120 grams

Soap Calc: Iodine 52, INS 148, Hardness 46, Cleansing 25, Conditioning 49, Bubbly 25, and Creamy 21
 
Re: Oats & Honey Soap Recipe

Steve,

What size mold do you use for the recipe below?




soaper1218 said:
Oats & Honey Soap
4.5 ounces Coconut oil
2.5 ounces Palm oil
9 ounces Olive oil
2.3 ounces lye
6.4 ounces water
AT TRACE ADD
1 teaspoon almond oil
1/8 cup finely ground oatmeal
1 teaspoon warm honey

I make this in a blender. Comes out nice.

Steve
www.colebrothers.com/soap
 
This bar came out so nice I had to share....
16 OZ OO
10 OZ CO
6OZ PO
2 OZ Shea
9 OZ Sloshy frozen buttermilk
4.6 OZ Lye
1 C Oatmeal, ground.
1 Tbspl Honey
Cucumber melon FO
110*

I mix lye and buttermilk in an ice bath and whisk often, soap at 110*.
I molded in a round mold.
 
I ran you recipe through soapcalc and your liquid (BUTTERMILK) is rrally low- only 27%. Did you add any water at all to dissolve the lye?

Your superfat came out to 10%.
 
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