Saponified oils in lotion?

[fillycate]

So, my passion is finding ways to use my farm goat milk in skin care products. I have been informed that goat milk lotion is a very dicey prospect. I have been reading about it and collecting information.

As I have been doing so, I have come across some obscure situations where someone has made a skin softening product that is not a soap with saponified oils.

"Wine Country" Goat Milk Lotion

Goats Milk Day Cream -100ml [PRO10004] - £12.99 : Beauty Stable, Natural Handmade British Skincare

(From another link)
Tingling Honey Lip Balm 5g

Sodium Olivate (Saponified Olive Oil), Sodium Cocoate (Saponified Coconut Oil), Sodium Sunflowerate (Saponified Sunflower Oil), Aqua (H₂O’s Fancy Name), Glycerin (Sugar Alcohol), Caprae Lac (Goat’s Milk), Sodium Cocoa Butterate (Saponified Cocoa Butter), Fragrance (Phthalate-Free).

Only the first of the two links has a goat milk product. But it made me curious...

Saponified oils can be used in lotions and balms? But... Isn't that soap?

If saponified oils can be used in lotion, can that help preserve goat milk in a lotion?

 

[DeeAnna]

Yes, that's soap. A rose is a still rose by any other name. No, soap will not be a preservative for a lotion type product.

I personally would avoid the first product. Looks like no preservative at all. And that much milk is all but impossible to preserve properly. Spoiled milk lotion .... ewwww.

The second one from the UK .... see where caprae lac (aka goat milk) is on the ingredients list? Below the preservative, which means it's equal to or less than the phenoxyethanol. In other words, the goat milk is only a tiny percentage. That tells me someone carefully formulated it for microbiological stability.

 

[fillycate]

Ewww, then someone is selling soap as a lip balm and lotion. Thank you for the insight that the goat milk is but a tiny percentage based on the order of ingredients. I didn't catch that.

 

[DeeAnna]

Soap as an ingredient isn't necessarily bad. It's an emulsifier and a thickener. It used to be an ingredient in some medicines ... maybe still is for all I know (but see below.) Sodium stearate is used in deodorants. I can't recall seeing it as an ingredient in lotions however, until your thread. That's a new one for me.

Also the soapy lip balm is um interesting. Soap can cause digestive upset. It can be used as a harsh laxative. Not sure what I think about the idea of moisturizing my lips with soap and then licking it off absentmindedly.

 

[justjacqui]

I am pretty sure that the lip balm is a copy and paste error. If this the lip balm from Moo Goo then the correct ingredients are Cera Alba (Beeswax), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Glycine Soja (Soya Bean) Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E), Allantoin, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Mentha Arvensis (Menthol), Honey. (from their website)


The first link also looks like another copy and paste error as all of the products on the website have the same ingredients.


There are some soap type emulsifiers such as TEA-stearate which is an older style soap type emulsifier and is used in some Lush products but I don't think they help with preservation.

I would recommend using only low levels of goats milk and using traditional preservatives if you plan on making a lotion. You would also need to do preservative efficacy testing if you plan to sell.

 

[fillycate]

I understand there is a huge risk in making goat milk lotion to sell. But I want to at the very least make it for me.

I am considering making it and freezing it in an ice cube tray and just taking out one cube at a time.

 

[Obsidian]

There is a recipe for goats milk lotion floating around here somewhere. I've always ment to try it but haven't yet.

Edit: found it
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/goat-milk-lotion-tutorial.48113/#post-447127

 

[Megan]

It looks like they are trying to use hurdle technology to preserve their formulation.

Edit: but I wouldn't trust a handmade product that claims to use hurdle technology...GMP in home based settings cannot be compared to industrial standards.

 

[DeeAnna]

Thanks, @justjacqui, for catching that error. A soap-based lip balm sure doesn't sound appealing to me. The business owner needs to correct those ingredients lists -- this is misleading to the consumer and an embarrassing liability for the business.

I never understood where Lindy got the 12% amount for the goat milk in her tutorial. She never did explain the reasoning behind this number, and it stands at odds with other cosmetic formulators who recommend using well under 1% of ingredients such as milk and aloe. I originally thought I'd try Lindy's recipe shortly after she shared it with the group. As time went on, I learned more about the challenges of preserving lotions and felt considerably less enthused about the idea of using milk, etc. So I never made it.

 

[cmzaha]

I would not even make milk or high protein lotion for my own use without it being challenged tested. Lotions are just too tricky to preserve at best. FYI, I do not make milk lotions and never will, and I do or did sell lotions.

 

[fillycate]

I can totally understand why. This is a very personal choice and decision. Part of why I am considering pouring them into an ice cube tray and keeping them frozen until using.

I have had sensitive skin all my life and had various skin issues. I am very curious to know how a home made goat lotion will do for me.

 

[atiz]

Not as bad as milk, but I use hydrosols sometimes as about half of my water. They are already more difficult to preserve (I don't sell and when I can smell the "old crayon smell" I just toss it). I haven't done proper testing, and they still last for about half a year or so, but start smelling off afterwards. My "EO only" lotions don't.