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🤦🏻‍♀️ lesson learned 😅 so along those lines…all the YouTubers I have been watching on soap making use ph strips to test, but then researching today I learned ph testing isn’t really accurate. So how do you know when your soap is safe to use/not lye heavy?
Yeah, there is a lot of misinformation and many old wives' tales on YT, unfortunately. Many of them even show folks putting a pH strip right on the wet soap, which is going to give false results every time.

If you really are concerned, you can zap-test your soap. For CP, I don't recommend doing that for at 36-72 hours, since it typically takes that long to fully saponify. In HP, you can zap-test it when it reaches the vaseline stage.

Once I got comfortable with the soapmaking process, I stopped zap-testing it at all. A visual check for any tell-tale signs (crumbly, chalky soap), and a quick lather test from an end-cut, are enough to let me know that the soap is ok.
 
Once the water was cooked off (about an hour) I tested the ph and it was about a 12 so I added more oil, stirred, cooked and tested again. I kept adding oil and mixing, probably added 3/4 cup of oil, a mix of coconut and olive oil.
Was this the oil from the original soap batch that you were adding back in? You didn’t add extra oil, did you?
 
Yeah, there is a lot of misinformation and many old wives' tales on YT, unfortunately. Many of them even show folks putting a pH strip right on the wet soap, which is going to give false results every time.

If you really are concerned, you can zap-test your soap. For CP, I don't recommend doing that for at 36-72 hours, since it typically takes that long to fully saponify. In HP, you can zap-test it when it reaches the vaseline stage.

Once I got comfortable with the soapmaking process, I stopped zap-testing it at all. A visual check for any tell-tale signs (crumbly, chalky soap), and a quick lather test from an end-cut, are enough to let me know that the soap is ok.
Thanks so much for all the help and tips! I did the zap test when I thought the soap was done and it was fine, I was just nervous about burning my tongue with lye 😂 I guess as long as you put your recipe through a soap calculator and measure everything accurately there would be no reason for it to be lye heavy 🤔

Was this the oil from the original soap batch that you were adding back in? You didn’t add extra oil, did you?
It was extra/additional oil. The only info I could find to help at the time was a video on rebatching a lye heavy soap which is what I thought I had.
 
Thanks so much for all the help and tips! I did the zap test when I thought the soap was done and it was fine, I was just nervous about burning my tongue with lye 😂 I guess as long as you put your recipe through a soap calculator and measure everything accurately there would be no reason for it to be lye heavy 🤔
You are 100% correct - good recipe in the calculator + good measuring = good soap!! :)
 
Please reread my post @Ekuzo, because with fresh soap you can HP/rebatch without grating the soap. Cutting it into 1” chunks works for me, which is great because I’m all about saving work when it isn’t necessary. And @Jackie H stated in her original post that after 72 hours she had oil droplets on top of the soap. An oven hot process would fix her soap issues.
I reread your post and I still find it hard to believe that once saponification is over, you can get the oozing oils back into the soap just by heating the relativity thin soap chunks. Can you explain the science behind that? I'm sure others will find it useful as well, you definitely got me curious.

🤦🏻‍♀️ lesson learned 😅 so along those lines…all the YouTubers I have been watching on soap making use ph strips to test, but then researching today I learned ph testing isn’t really accurate. So how do you know when your soap is safe to use/not lye heavy?

I know zap test was already mentioned, but here's the tutorial on how to properly do it without damaging your tongue, I hope you find it helpful!

https://classicbells.com/soap/zapTest.asp

It's DeeAnna's website, you probably met her on the forum - she's the scientific authority out here (I hope posting this is fair play, let me know if I missed something)

Sorry to hear about the rebatch mishap, we learn from our mistakes! HP can be kind of confusing for CP beginners, next time you'll know how to avoid all that trouble and make some great CP soap!
 
I reread your post and I still find it hard to believe that once saponification is over, you can get the oozing oils back into the soap just by heating the relativity thin soap chunks. Can you explain the science behind that? I'm sure others will find it useful as well, you definitely got me curious.

Not @ScentimentallyYours but the answer seems clear to me. Even after 96 hours in the molds (or more generally, while the soap is still soft), soap made with that much water will melt easily, which is why grating it is not worth the effort.
 
Per the OP's statements in posts #17 and #24, above, this soap had a whole lot of extra oil added to it during the rebatching process. Thus, rebatching alone probably will not remediate the softness, or the oil weeping out.

I'll leave it to someone better at math than I am to calculate the extra lye solution that should be added to saponify all that extra oil during a second rebatch.
 
Not @ScentimentallyYours but the answer seems clear to me. Even after 96 hours in the molds (or more generally, while the soap is still soft), soap made with that much water will melt easily, which is why grating it is not worth the effort.
Makes sense, thanks! Basically, it gets more or less like the glycerin soap that you can melt and reshape, due to the excessive liquid. Just an analogy, nothing more
 
I reread your post and I still find it hard to believe that once saponification is over, you can get the oozing oils back into the soap just by heating the relativity thin soap chunks. Can you explain the science behind that? I'm sure others will find it useful as well, you definitely got me curious.



I know zap test was already mentioned, but here's the tutorial on how to properly do it without damaging your tongue, I hope you find it helpful!

https://classicbells.com/soap/zapTest.asp

It's DeeAnna's website, you probably met her on the forum - she's the scientific authority out here (I hope posting this is fair play, let me know if I missed something)

Sorry to hear about the rebatch mishap, we learn from our mistakes! HP can be kind of confusing for CP beginners, next time you'll know how to avoid all that trouble and make some great CP soap!
Thanks for the link! The soap I put into bar moulds actually hardened so I’ll at least have that 😂 The big loaf mould is slowly hardening too so there hope yet!
 
Thanks for the link! The soap I put into bar moulds actually hardened so I’ll at least have that 😂 The big loaf mould is slowly hardening too so there hope yet!
You are welcome! Wait it out, maybe not all hope is lost 😅
 
I reread your post and I still find it hard to believe that once saponification is over, you can get the oozing oils back into the soap just by heating the relativity thin soap chunks. Can you explain the science behind that? I'm sure others will find it useful as well, you definitely got me curious.
If the original recipe was sound and everything was measured correctly, it is quite possible that there was a false trace, in which case the ingredients would separate in the mold. Saponification would not yet be complete. I’m not sure what else would have caused the soap to separate. (Maybe you or someone else has an explanation?) Finishing the soap with a hot process would correct the false trace.
 
If the original recipe was sound and everything was measured correctly, it is quite possible that there was a false trace, in which case the ingredients would separate in the mold. Saponification would not yet be complete. I’m not sure what else would have caused the soap to separate. (Maybe you or someone else has an explanation?) Finishing the soap with a hot process would correct the false trace.
^^^agreed 100%. There seems to be a false idea that saponification is complete when the batter is poured into the mold. That isn't even necessarily true with hot process, depending on how long it was cooked. It definitely isn't the case with cold process soap, which can take days to finish saponifying.
 
If the original recipe was sound and everything was measured correctly, it is quite possible that there was a false trace, in which case the ingredients would separate in the mold. Saponification would not yet be complete. I’m not sure what else would have caused the soap to separate. (Maybe you or someone else has an explanation?) Finishing the soap with a hot process would correct the false trace.
We don't know if the batter was separated or not, or if it was starting to separate at that point - she said there were small beads of oil on top of some of the bars and that was all. Tbh, the photos didn't look that bad - and some bars were definitely unsealed and the edges were popped off the mold.

Now, those beads of oil could be sign of separation (although I doubt it, since the beads were small and the bars were solid, even though soft and sticky due to the high water percentage. Even if it has started to separate, there was a pretty good chance the small amount of oil will get reabsorbed and there was nothing to worry about). Or, those beads could be just the soap sweating, which is harmless. Or, it could be the EO if not incorporated properly. Without seeing for ourselves, without a proper check and a decent enough observation, you, me and everybody else can only speculate about the actual state of the batch and the reason for the problem, if any. Unfortunately, we can only help with an advice, based on our speculation. And any advice should be taken with a grain of salt. Always.

I still believe she should have just let the soap be and observe it. Probably, after 6 months or so, it would have been great soap, and in the mean time she would have made many more batches which she could use earlier than this one. HP can be frustrating for beginner soapers, it can lead to panic and more mistakes, that's the reason I was against it (at least against the "classic" pot rebatch).

However, I agreed with you and AliOop that the OP would definitely benefit from some "oven HP", no matter the case. If it was starting to separate or was already separated, the heat would help the batter get back together and lose liquid. If it was not separated, it would still lose liquid and get hard fast - in theory, it should have worked great. Unfortunately, OP tried that and it was not up to the expectations and didn't provide the results we hoped for, and it went downhill from there...

Of course, it's not the end of the world. The next batch will be perfect, this will be a mistake of the past, a stepping stone. We all who participated in the conversation have a feeling of fulfillment, that of giving good advice - because that was the best advice we could possibly provide at the moment. All's well that ends well.

^^^agreed 100%. There seems to be a false idea that saponification is complete when the batter is poured into the mold. That isn't even necessarily true with hot process, depending on how long it was cooked. It definitely isn't the case with cold process soap, which can take days to finish saponifying.

I agree. For CP, it could take 24-72 hours, give or take, for full saponification. There's also no guarantee that HP is fully saponified after the cook - unless cooked to a particular consistency and zap tested to be sure. Some people, though few, cook it only to speed up the process by forcing gel stage and leave it partly finished.
 
Here’s an update on the soap! It ain’t pretty but it lathers well and leaves my hands super soft. All things considered, I’m thrilled with it! I learned a lot and will try this recipe again..with correct measurements. It also has me wanting to get into hot process soaping so good all around 😁
 

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