Ready to bang my head...

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I think you should be pretty proud of yourself. They all look fine and the first one looks like marble. There is certainly a learning curve but even vetran soapers have problems with overheating, color morphing, seizure etc...I too have been soaping for 3 years and have had several batches that hit the trash as there was no saving them. We just re group and move on. Also, keep really good notes about how your batches act with colorants, fragrances and additives as it will help as you go forward.

Good luck and keep up the great work!
 
I should be bowing to you - those of beautiful soap! Soapmaking is always a learning experience. I still can't make a good, consistent swirl for each batch but I am still trying. My first soap I made was a success but batch after batch afterward were failures. I learned why they were mistakes due to soaping temperatures being too high and being unlucky with using fragrance oils that riced or seized the soap too quickly. Ah, the power of learning overcomes all problems. We are all artists; being our own worst critic. Give yourself a pat on the back for doing a good job. :thumbup:
 
First off, soap laughs when you plan a batch. It usually goes wrong some kind of way, but the good news some of those batches end up better than you the one you might have planned in the first place. Everyone has batches that go south some kind of way. With soap, it's more of a "have an idea in mind" and then improvise when something goes crazy with it. Try to stay calm and go with it, if you can. After all, it's soap and it might now be pretty or what you planned, but it might smell great and it can still be used.
 
Woman.. You're nuts and a typical one who is too critical of herself. :) Those look fabulous!! And I'm not just making your uglies pretty.. Those are nice!!

I love the rings.. Think I remember that one before and it looks even better now with the darkening. The top one looks so so neat like granite or marble.
Believe the last one was cocoa? (I'm on my phone) and had the white top and brown bottom.. Looked good enough to eat and nice coloring.

Seriously.. They all look very good!
 
I say breathe.. slow down a bit.. be patient.. and take a step back and make a basic soap first. :) All very hard things to do but you want to gain some confidence and making some very simple recipes in easy molds will allow you to get the basic movements down first before you get into trickier ones.
Exactly. Start with small batches of the easiest versions. Make a batch of soap with no highly unsaturated fats/oils like olive, peanut, palm, corn, sunflower, safflower--just those high in saturation like coconut, tallow, even hydrogenated fats like Crisco. There are plenty of recipes like that out there. You can even find them in "1 bar" quantities. No perfume, color, anything fancy. You'll say, but that's not even as good as I can buy! Well, duh! That's how it is learning crafts in general, and I bet you've experienced that with other things; it's just that depending on the ease of the craft, you may not have wound up with things that were total waste on the first go-round or two. Eventually you'll get enough familiarity that if you stay interested, you'll wind up with what's not only fun for the making, but also worthwhile product to use.

I've been going thru this with fireworking. I practiced a long time with making simpler works, to the point where some of them (like aerial shells) were more spectacular than my friends could buy for consumer use, but I bored them with lots of flops first, and I started with the very simplest items that wouldn't impress people who are used to even common commercial items. Lately I've practically started all over by graduating to sky rocketry, and still have a high ratio of those that don't get off the ground, that blow up, or that fly horizontally, or even don't ignite at all, to those that go into the air as they're supposed to.

You may get there. It may take you a long time or a little, depending on how much time you have to devote and how intense your interest is.

Of course it's always possible you'll end the way I did with piano playing (which hobby my parents tried to convince me was my idea) when I quit, realizing it wasn't worth my effort to get good enough, and I never looked back. It's not like there's any hobby out there that's for everybody. Or you may find it worth your while to return to it after a period in a fresh frame of mind--possibly many times--after some time off from it.

Just looking at the craft hobbies you listed--painting, sewing, crochet, knitting, jewelry making--I see that most of them have something in common that makes them easier than making soap: immediate feedback. With most of them, you can see moment by moment as you're making an item how it's turning out. I know that with some media in painting, appearance changes after a while so you don't get exactly accurate feedback right away, but even with those media you can see approximately how it's turning out as you do it; not with soap. Similarly, you can make mistakes in knitting that you don't realize until a bit after you've done them, but it's still not as blind as it is with soap making.

Another thing about those other hobbies that doesn't apply to making soap is that you can put most such projects down at any point and resume them from there. So soap making has some difficulties a lot of crafts don't, so it's not surprising that many people would have more failures in it at first.
 
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I share your pain my dear! I don't know how many times I finished my batch and started cleaning up when to my utter horror I noticed my measuring glass of unused f/o! people get a lot of free unscented soap from me-LOL!

may I suggest, pick one mold and stick with it for at least 6 months...this way you can see exactly how each ingredient or technigue works under the same conditions...I would suggest a small silicone loaf pan...this way mistakes aren't so expensives and your soap collection doesn't take over your house!

may I also suggest something similar as this...it takes 8-9 ozs of oils. http://www.bulkapothecary.com/soap-...d-9-95-each/?gclid=COW7i8PS3bgCFUxo7AodET4AjA
 
Exactly. Start with small batches of the easiest versions. Make a batch of soap with no highly unsaturated fats/oils like olive, peanut, palm, corn, sunflower, safflower--just those high in saturation like coconut, tallow, even hydrogenated fats like Crisco. There are plenty of recipes like that out there. You can even find them in "1 bar" quantities.

That small isn't the smartest thing to avoid screw ups. The room for error is pretty much non existent and sap values are averages.
Go for at least around 500 grams of oils.
 
Thank you all for the great feedback! I picked the best of the lot for the pics and did a LOT of trimming and clean up before snapping the photos. The great thing is, most of the handmade soaps sold around here are the natural colored goats milk types, so my family and friends are somewhat clueless as to how awesome some of YOUR soaps look. I came into soaping knowing that I most likely will only use oils that can be bought locally and for me that means mostly Walmart. Also, I plan to stick with small batches because curing space is an issue.

Robert, you were dead on about my other hobbies! I knew my lack of patience and having immediate feedback would be an issue...lol

Thanks again guys!
 
hey, what's not to love about your soapies! I think they look marvelous! soap making will always be a work in progress...even when you have a picture in mind of how you want them to look like, they seem to have a mind of their own...often with spectacular results! you're on the right track, now just practice your craft.
 
I guess I am a big fat chicken, because I did 60 pounds of plain tallow only, unscented soap before moving on to anything more complicated. I am pretty slow to add colors, and have been conservative with the essential oils.

I have a wonderful wood mold hubby made for me and even after thinking I had it down pat got a batch too hot and talk about ugly. After it started heating up in the mold it became a molten volcano. It was a big wow. I learned a few things and after that batch cured it got grated up for laundry soap :)

I love seeing all the creativity with the soaps, however I started soaping specifically to limit what goes on my skin, so I am not sure how many additives I intend to do.

I have been notorious for starting with the most complicated thing I can when I start something new. For example, my first ever sewing project when I first got my machine was a lined dress with a petticoat. I am not sure why soap has been different, but it has been. I did not start out taking notes (especially when I was just doing tallow) but now that I am becoming more adventurous I am so that I can keep track of what has worked, what scents work well, etc.

For me, the biggest patience issue I am having is that trace is taking WAY longer than I think it should, but once its in the mold I am pretty good about walking away and letting it sit...but that's because I can move on to quilting or crocheting to keep my hands busy so I can leave things alone :)

I am very impressed that you have jumped right in with gusto. The soaps look great and I am sure smell wonderful as well. :)
 
That small isn't the smartest thing to avoid screw ups. The room for error is pretty much non existent and sap values are averages.
Go for at least around 500 grams of oils.
The saponif'n no. being an avg. for a given fat doesn't have anything to do with the size of the batch. What you need is precision in weighing and other measurements, and working in small quantity is good practice for that. Screwups aren't usually a matter of being off by a little, and when you do screw up, might as well limit the disposal problem. I remember a HS chem teacher writing about how he'd switched his labs from the more classic quantities students had been using to micro scale, among other reasons to minimize disposal. Of course if you get really micro, then you need precision equipment to work on that scale, so I'm not suggesting you work below what you could reasonably read your balance to with adequate precision.

I wish I could remember the name of the lady who made 1-bar soaps. Jan somebody, I think.
 
That small isn't the smartest thing to avoid screw ups. The room for error is pretty much non existent and sap values are averages.
Go for at least around 500 grams of oils.

This is correct.

The smaller the amount, the smaller the margin for variations in SAP and simple variances with home scales. Using 4 ounces of olive oil as an example, the difference between 5% superfat and 0% superfat is about three-fourths of one gram, not nearly enough to cover the range of SAP values (for olive oil it is 184-196). Most home scales that weigh in grams that I have seen have a margin for error of +/- 2 grams. You could easily end up with a soap with a high superfat and have no idea why it isn't lathering very well, or worse it would be far too easy to end up with a lye heavy soap.

For beginners I second the advice of starting out with a 1.5 - 2lb batch, enough to get a "feel" for it and cover your margins of sap values and home scales, not so much as to waste supplies if it all goes awry.
 
I guess I lucked out by recovering a 3-beam Ohaus from a dead friend, but my 1st batch couldn't've used more than 8 oz. of oil because that's what I bought! The way I figured was to use the low value of reported sap. no. from an old Merck Index (discarded by a prof) and making an estimate of the precision I could weigh the NaOH to, cognizant of the fact that once I opened up the can of Red Devil lye, my subsequent weights would overestimate the amount actually used due to CO2 & H2O absorbed from the air. It helped that I didn't use olive--big spread in sap. no. from that, huh?
 

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