One-Pot Ombre?

[BrewerGeorge]

I think I'm about done testing scents for a while and ready to start working on design techniques.

First up is ombre. All the videos I've seen separate batter and pour darkest on the bottom to lightest on top. Is there any reason not to flip that pour, starting with lightest on the bottom and adding progressively more color to the whole remaining batch so the most color is on top of the mold?

 

[dixiedragon]

I've done that it and works pretty well. You do need to work quickly because if you think about it, the last layer is going to have been stirred a lot more than the bottom one. So it's a bit tricky b/c the bottom layer is the thinnest at pour and the top is the thickest.

 

[artemis]

I think I'm about done testing scents for a while and ready to start working on design techniques.

First up is ombre. All the videos I've seen separate batter and pour darkest on the bottom to lightest on top. Is there any reason not to flip that pour, starting with lightest on the bottom and adding progressively more color to the whole remaining batch so the most color is on top of the mold?

That's what I did for one of mine, back when we had the gradient challenge. I mostly did it because I was too lazy to separate the batter for all those shades. As you said, after each pour, I added a little more color to the remaining batter. I didn't have any trouble with the final layers getting too thick, but I was only aiming for 6 layers.

 

[BattleGnome]

That's the way I do it for M&P, haven't attempted it with CP yet.

I'm pretty sure I've seem tutorials for the one pot method, but I don't remember how they managed trace.

 

[dibbles]

I've done light to dark when doing a very gradual ombre (as Veronica Foales technique). It would work as well for layers too. For the SMF gradient challenge, I separated the layers so they would be even, but you could easily wing it.

 

[SunRiseArts]

I have done as you describe Brewer George. I am lazy like that! lol. But mainly is because I like to do that with rebatch soap, which necessarily places the lightest at the bottom.

However doing CP, and your trace is not too thick, I guess nobody will notice which side is up.

I am guessing there are no rules for what hombre should look like.

And please post picks. Love your threads with pics. Always learn something new!

 

[jod58]

Wow. That's looks beautiful. I'll never get that precise. Lol

 

[penelopejane]

I think I'm about done testing scents for a while and ready to start working on design techniques.

First up is ombre. All the videos I've seen separate batter and pour darkest on the bottom to lightest on top. Is there any reason not to flip that pour, starting with lightest on the bottom and adding progressively more color to the whole remaining batch so the most color is on top of the mold?

Here is Veronica Foale's video showing her doing the technique.
She makes it looks so easy and just eye balls the colour graduation. Of course, when I did it, I measured the amount of colour added for each pour exactly!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_hxsnJVmGs[/ame]

 

[penelopejane]

I've done light to dark when doing a very gradual ombre (as Veronica Foales technique). It would work as well for layers too. For the SMF gradient challenge, I separated the layers so they would be even, but you could easily wing it.

Dibbles,
Beautiful, beautiful soap.
Thank you for showing them to us.

 

[ibct1969]

I have been drooling over this today... to me this is so gorgeous.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2HDgUljsY8[/ame]

 

[BrewerGeorge]

I made it and cut it, but I didn't mix the colors well enough so the stripes are weird. I'll pay pics when I get a chance.

 

[cmzaha]

You can do an ombre without separating and starting with the darkest first. Make extra dark better so you can add better to lighten each layer

 

[Cindy2428]

That indigo ombre reminded me of star sapphires - so pretty