Olive Oil and Coconut Milk soap

[pleiades]

I saw mention of these 2 ingredients somewhere on here and would really like to try this, but I can't find it it anywhere.

Would anyone share their recipe with me and and useful tips, I'm relatively new to this.

I would be looking to use 1kg of Olive Oil as I know this fits my mould.

Is there anything anyone would suggest that would make a 'nice' natural addition to this soap? I have some camomile powder but haven't used any yet. What would this bring to my soap? Is there a rule of thumb for how much fragrance or powder like this you would use?

How high would you superfat Olive Oil soap. I think my first batch was superfatted at 3%.

Thanks

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

There's a couple of ways you can use Coconut Milk with your Olive Oil soap.
You can substitute your milk for the all water in your recipe.
You can substitute any portion you deem worthy of milk for water.
You can subtract an amount of water from your lye solution and add that amount of milk at trace.
I prefer the third option. Most soapers I believe prefer the first.

So maybe you could do something like this:
Olive Oil 1 kg
Water 290 gr (35% Water to Oil ratio)
NaOH 127.34 gr (6% Superfat)
At trace, add 60 gr Coconut Milk

You probably should be doing a Superfat of at least 5% no matter what oils you're using. The only time I would suggest less is if you're making a soap for laundry or other household cleaning purposes. The superfat not only makes your soap more conditioning, it makes it a safer product because it accounts for any slight mismeasurement of lye and helps assure your soap will not be lye heavy. Make sure you use a lye calculator like SoapCalc or Brambleberry, etc. I would superfat my Olive Oil/Coconut Milk at about 6% if I were you. The milk will help with conditioning already, and too high of an Olive Oil superfat can be a little slimy.

As for Chamomile powder, it should give you a light yellow (speckled) color, but you will not obtain any scent from the powder. You could try about 2 Tbs in your 1 kg batch for a more yellow effect, or 2 tsp in your 1 kg batch for a subtler look. There is no hard and fast rules for (skin safe) herbal colorants. It all depends on your preference and results desired. Most are anywhere from 1 tsp to 1 Tbs per pound of oils.

Fragrance oils should be used at the rate advised by their manufacturer. The retailer should be able to give you that information. As for essential oils, a 3% usage rate is usually acceptable for most skin safe oils, but please research any essential oil you use to be sure of its safety and any contraindications. Maybe you could try some Lavender essential oil in this batch. It is one of the safest essential oils to use, and a universally pleasing scent. You could add 30 gr to this 1 kg batch.

 

[Hausfrau007]

When I made my coconut milk soap, Shawnee helped me figure out the recipe. I used 100% coconut milk tho -- no water.

24 oz olive oil
7.92 oz frozen coconut milk, careful not to scorch!
3.024 oz lye

I made this on November 8 and tested a scrap yesterday -- it seems harsh still and the PH strip said it was about 11. I guess it needs much more time to cure.

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

I made this on November 8 and tested a scrap yesterday -- it seems harsh still and the PH strip said it was about 11. I guess it needs much more time to cure.

Yeah, Olive Oil needs a good long cure, and especially if you don't gel your soap.

 

[Hausfrau007]

Dammit, I just gave a small piece to a friend to try. I now wish I hadn't done that. Do you think they'll be ready in January? I don't know what to expect in terms of curing time with non-gelled milk soaps.

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

Olive Oil soaps can take a long time...as in 6 months to cure. That's one reason I don't like making Castille soap (technically not Castille if you used milk) and I prefer to gel my soaps because I usually have a 40-50% Olive Oil content. It will be better in January, but not at its best. I think your pH may read higher because you didn't gel, assuming it doesn't zap. I gel all my soaps and cure all my soaps for 6 weeks, and that extra 2 weeks from the normal 4 week cure I believe makes enough of a difference to make it worth it, and still keep my impatience at bay

 

[judymoody]

I made some Castille on January 1 of this year. I tried it in May and it was still a bit slimy. I tried it today and it is much nicer. It produces very little lather and feels kind of slippery. But it's nice on dry winter skin. I did a SF of 8% Hope this helps.

 

[Hausfrau007]

Jesus, six months! Thanks, Shawnee and Judy. I better tell my friend to shelve it for a while. The soap didn't zap but was super-slimy and indeed felt harsh.

 

[Gryfonmoon]

Maybe you can HP that sucker? It would still need a cure, but not for as long. I've done HP Castile before and only had to wait like 3 weeks or so.

 

[pleiades]

Thanks for all this information, I have just made a batch - putting the coconut milk in at trace with some lavender essential oil. The house smells real good at the moment

I also had some mauve oxide so I put a bit in just under half the batch and had my first attempt at doing some swirls. I'm sure there's a method for that.

I can't wait to cut it and see how it's turned out.

DH has problematic skin and he really liked the batch of pure Olive oil soap I made on my first attempt. I'm going to put the rest away to mature for a few more months. I'm just hoping to find variation on that, which he can use and which amuse me to make.

 

[DragonQueenHHP]

when using Chamomile in soap be sure you put it clearly on the label people like me clog with snot at the mere thought of Chamomile :wink:
I HP Castile soap turns out great I have never tried adding milk to it I did see a post not long ago where someone made milk castile it looked great

 

[burtonridr]

There's a couple of ways you can use Coconut Milk with your Olive Oil soap.
You can substitute your milk for the all water in your recipe.
You can substitute any portion you deem worthy of milk for water.
You can subtract an amount of water from your lye solution and add that amount of milk at trace.
I prefer the third option. Most soapers I believe prefer the first.

I think this is what I was supposed to do on one of my recipes, but confused it with super fatting...

 

[Wessam]

There's a couple of ways you can use Coconut Milk with your Olive Oil soap.
You can substitute your milk for the all water in your recipe.
You can substitute any portion you deem worthy of milk for water.
You can subtract an amount of water from your lye solution and add that amount of milk at trace.
I prefer the third option. Most soapers I believe prefer the first.

So maybe you could do something like this:
Olive Oil 1 kg
Water 290 gr (35% Water to Oil ratio)
NaOH 127.34 gr (6% Superfat)
At trace, add 60 gr Coconut Milk

You probably should be doing a Superfat of at least 5% no matter what oils you're using. The only time I would suggest less is if you're making a soap for laundry or other household cleaning purposes. The superfat not only makes your soap more conditioning, it makes it a safer product because it accounts for any slight mismeasurement of lye and helps assure your soap will not be lye heavy. Make sure you use a lye calculator like SoapCalc or Brambleberry, etc. I would superfat my Olive Oil/Coconut Milk at about 6% if I were you. The milk will help with conditioning already, and too high of an Olive Oil superfat can be a little slimy.

As for Chamomile powder, it should give you a light yellow (speckled) color, but you will not obtain any scent from the powder. You could try about 2 Tbs in your 1 kg batch for a more yellow effect, or 2 tsp in your 1 kg batch for a subtler look. There is no hard and fast rules for (skin safe) herbal colorants. It all depends on your preference and results desired. Most are anywhere from 1 tsp to 1 Tbs per pound of oils.

Fragrance oils should be used at the rate advised by their manufacturer. The retailer should be able to give you that information. As for essential oils, a 3% usage rate is usually acceptable for most skin safe oils, but please research any essential oil you use to be sure of its safety and any contraindications. Maybe you could try some Lavender essential oil in this batch. It is one of the safest essential oils to use, and a universally pleasing scent. You could add 30 gr to this 1 kg batch.

Hi.. I likethis simple recipe, but i would prefer to try in smaller portions.. is it ok to divide all amounts by 4 to match only 250gms of olive oil? sorry if the questions sounds stupid (it really is) but i am not an expert in chemistry and am afrais that sometimes common sense messes things up

 

[shunt2011]

Yes you can change the size but need to run it through a soap calculator to get accurate amounts of oils, water/milk as well as lye amount. Most use www.soapcalc.net.

 

[Bubli]

I'm going to plug my question in here (cuz honestly it seems less hostile than the debate over at the "ALEPPO" discussion). I have Ben making soap for a while now but I have never made castile 100% olive oil soap or Aleppo sosp. I am about to try both. I have got a ton of the absolute best, darkest green extra virgin olive oil and have order a kilo of the laurel berry oil. I will add salt and sugar to both batches like I usually do other soap. Should I still do the citric acid at 1% and up the lye to compensate? Also, this may sound strange but I want my soap,especially the castile, to stay that beautiful grassy green color. Using EVOO, will it turn out green and if so will it change over time? I know it will be a long wait for cure and the lack of bubbles. I have been using a castile soap by kiss my face for a bit now and I love it. I even use it on my hair and do not need a acv rinse and I have hard water. THAT is my goal in making the EVOO soap.
I know that over time the Aleppo will age to a brownish. Any advice tips and truck are appreciated. Oh and I will be discounting my water as much as I can.

 

[Wessam]

Yes you can change the size but need to run it through a soap calculator to get accurate amounts of oils, water/milk as well as lye amount. Most use www.soapcalc.net.

but soapcalc does not show the milk percentage

 

[boyago]

I'm going to plug my question in here (cuz honestly it seems less hostile than the debate over at the "ALEPPO" discussion). I have Ben making soap for a while now but I have never made castile 100% olive oil soap or Aleppo sosp. I am about to try both. I have got a ton of the absolute best, darkest green extra virgin olive oil and have order a kilo of the laurel berry oil. I will add salt and sugar to both batches like I usually do other soap. Should I still do the citric acid at 1% and up the lye to compensate? Also, this may sound strange but I want my soap,especially the castile, to stay that beautiful grassy green color. Using EVOO, will it turn out green and if so will it change over time? I know it will be a long wait for cure and the lack of bubbles. I have been using a castile soap by kiss my face for a bit now and I love it. I even use it on my hair and do not need a acv rinse and I have hard water. THAT is my goal in making the EVOO soap.
I know that over time the Aleppo will age to a brownish. Any advice tips and truck are appreciated. Oh and I will be discounting my water as much as I can.

All the castiles I've made come out really white regardless of what the oil going in is.
You can add the citric acid and added lye if you like but that is done usually just to compensate for hard water. But since I learned that trick I've been doing it allot.

but soapcalc does not show the milk percentage

You just use the milk as a replacement for part or all of your water value. Then you can use the "milk fat - any bovine" from the oils list with the amount of actual fat (you can calculate this from the nutrition label) to add in the lye that will be consumed by the fat in the amount of milk you swapped for water.

 

[Wessam]

Another question... after i pour my CP soap into the malds, i just cover them with film sheets, put them in an insulating cloth bag, and place them in an unheated oven for 24 hours. does this guarantee gelling or is it then ungelled?

 

[seven]

Another question... after i pour my CP soap into the malds, i just cover them with film sheets, put them in an insulating cloth bag, and place them in an unheated oven for 24 hours. does this guarantee gelling or is it then ungelled?

if you are using the recipe you quoted previously, then the sugar in coconut milk is contributing some heat to the soap. what climate do you live in? what is the usual room temp around there? i live in the tropics, and if i insulate my soap (plus it has milks in it) it usually gels on its own.

do you want a gelled soap or ungelled?

 

[Wessam]

if you are using the recipe you quoted previously, then the sugar in coconut milk is contributing some heat to the soap. what climate do you live in? what is the usual room temp around there? i live in the tropics, and if i insulate my soap (plus it has milks in it) it usually gels on its own.

do you want a gelled soap or ungelled?

i read that gelled soap is mych better than non gelled.. so i'd love to go for the best. I live in Egypt, it's winter now (temp 15-7c)

i havent't tried the milk recipe yet but am talking in general... sorry for asking such very basic questions but i have made only 3 batches so far so i am a very beginner