'Old Reliable' or 'Core' Cold Process Recipes

[Jorah]

I know I get distracted by the new and different, and that's fine... (My 50+ miles of yarn from my knitting days can hint at how easily distracted I can get...) I currently have the funds to mess around a bit and experiment with small batches of fun soap recipes without putting my family finances at risk! However, I started thinking the other day that it would be cool to have a selection of core recipes that I could grab to whip up a batch for friends or my own use without worrying if it was going to be decent soap. Would you be interested in helping assemble such a list?

I'll start with a few that I've found that fit the concept I'm working toward, though I've only made two of the list so far. (if there's a 'purpose' to a given soap, aside from simple cleansing, please note that; for instance, for 'mechanic's friend (Lava-style) soap, you could mention 'for scrubbing hands filthy from honest labor'). This list is sorted roughly from fewest to most number of oils used in the recipe. These obviously are just oil percentages; you'll want to find the original posts for more details such as other additives (salt, for instance), superfats, etc.

1. Castile (example recipe: Zany's no slime castile)
   
   
2. Single-Fat Soaps (aside from Castile): So far I've tried pure lard and pure tallow. If you've tried (and liked) any single-fat recipes, please share (and if you've tried something you can recommend we stay away from that would be helpful, too!).
   
   
3. 72% (Olive oil 72%, and the rest palm oil, coconut oil, or some of each) I'm pretty sure this is the core recipe that people make variants on and call 'Bastille.'
   
   
4. Terri E suggests Aleppo soap (70-80% olive oil, 20-30% laurel berry oil) and "Black seed oil soap as a brine bar" (@Terri E , if you're willing to share oil percentages for this, you'll have my thanks).
   
   
5. 34/33/33 (34% olive oil, 33% coconut oil, and 33% palm oil) (I've done a variant of this I found on Bramble Berry: 'Old Faithful.' It's still curing but looks like it will be nice.
   
   
6. Zany's suggestion for a no-palm, no-lard standard (67% shea butter, 28% coconut, 5% castor oil).
   
   
7. Face soap @cmzaha suggests a shea butter bar (59% shea butter, 24% rice bran oil [or liquid oil of choice], 12% coconut oil, 5% castor oil)
   
   
8. @Obsidian shared this unnamed one: (50% lard, 20% coconut, 25% safflower, 5% castor).
   
   
9. Mechanic's Soap Example: 'Earlene's Blacksmith Soap' (Link is to the corrected recipe) (30% Crisco vegetable shortening [palm], 30% lard, 20% coconut, 15% olive oil, 5% castor) with thanks to @artemis for the recommendation.
   
   
10. @TheGecko shared their 'Regular Soap' (35% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 20% palm oil, 10% cocoa butter, 10% shea butter, 5% castor oil.

I searched a bit on the forums before posting this, to see if there were similar 'survey' threads on traditional or reliable recipes, but didn't find anything specific.

July 01 Edit: I appreciate your perspectives on this idea. Based on your replies, I've clarified my thinking around this; I realized that I originally asked for base recipes, then went off on a tangent on special-purpose soaps; I've taken out most of the special-purpose soaps in this edit. What I've gleaned from this thread on the idea of special-purpose soaps is that they're mostly a base recipe with various additives (clay, pumice, what-have-you). I've retained a line item for face soap as it seems that many soaps are considered too much for the face; I'm hoping someone has a specific recipe they can share that has been gentle for them. My plan for the rest of this summer (2023) is to make at least one batch of each of these as a sort of learning curriculum of the basics of soapmaking.

(Note: I'm making edits to this original post to clarify things and as I get suggestions)

 

[artemis]

I think this is what most of us do. But, it's going to be different for each person, because we all like something different in a soap.

When you get into things like Gardener's or exfoliating soap or whatever, it's just one of your "bases" plus additives. To me, those aren't different recipes, just the same recipe with things added. Like when I throw a handful of chocolate chips into my brownie mix. I wouldn't consider that a different recipe.

But, maybe that's me.

If you want a good Gardener's/Mechanic's soap to fill that slot, search for Earlene's Blacksmith Soap for info on what additives are good for that.

 

[Jorah]

When you get into things like Gardener's or exfoliating soap or whatever, it's just one of your "bases" plus additives. To me, those aren't different recipes, just the same recipe with things added. Like when I throw a handful of chocolate chips into my brownie mix. I wouldn't consider that a different recipe.

I'm perhaps being extra-cautious in this, as (as a newbie) I found that I need extra detail with my additives (my first attempt at a pumice soap was just adding pumice to a base, but I had no idea about it settling, and now I have an odd two-level bar with lots of grit on the bottom, and less on the top, and extra guidance may have helped me avoid that).

If you want a good Gardener's/Mechanic's soap to fill that slot, search for Earlene's Blacksmith Soap for info on what additives are good for that.

Awesome, thanks! Off to search for Earlene's Blacksmith!

But, it's going to be different for each person, because we all like something different in a soap.

Understood, and I'm not hoping for an 'ideal' soap (I think it was Zany who said 'ideal for what?', just a handful of basics that you can count on, and perhaps why.

 

[The_Phoenix]

Thing is, it’s not necessary to have different recipes for specific uses. I use soap pieces to wash dishes. All different formulas jumbled together. Each one does a fine job of washing my dishes (and cleans my stainless steel sink spectacularly well).

 

[The_Phoenix]

Also, make small batches (very small batches) of the recipes you noted and use them after a three month cure. That’s the only way to determine if you like a particular recipe.

Soap-making is a very experiential craft. I can’t know the qualities of a soap batch without first making it and testing it. And find a handful of people in your circle to test the soap out before you bury yourself in the mountain of possibilities. Nothing worse than make lots of soap that ends up not being good soap. I definitely fell into that trap early on and have the lost boxes of soap hiding in my house somewhere to prove it.

 

[artemis]

I'm perhaps being extra-cautious in this...

...and extra guidance may have helped me avoid that).

I can see that. But, now you know to wait until you're at a thicker trace before adding something like that. (Also, have you considered turning that soap into confetti for a different batch?

Recipes you'll get here don't tend to be detailed like that. They tend to be 80% this, 20% that, the end. Those techniques are acquired in reading and doing.

Maybe what you need is to compile the information you are learning about additives. Categories like, exfoliants, chelators, slippy-ness, etc with information for each on the method for using them as well as your personal experience.

For instance, if I made such a thing, I would include a collection of exfoliants with notes on how much to add per pound of oils, when to add, how scratchy it is in the end product, what I thought of soaping with it and how I like the end product.

 

[Terri E]

Aleppo soap, I call it “Aleppo soap my version” It is one of my very favorites! You don’t have to add any fragrance, ( you can if you want) It has a wonderful exotic fragrance of its own. It makes a wonderful body or facial soap.
I also like Black seed oil soap as a brine bar.

 

[Jorah]

Maybe what you need is to compile the information you are learning about additives. Categories like, exfoliants, chelators, slippy-ness, etc with information for each on the method for using them as well as your personal experience.

Sounds like something I'd do!

it’s not necessary to have different recipes for specific uses.

Is this an argument for finding a single base and sticking with it? (not trying to put words in your mouth, I'm really curious)

 

[Zany_in_CO]

2. 72% (Typically 72% olive oil, and the rest palm oil, coconut oil, or some of each) I'm pretty sure this is the core recipe that people make variants on and call 'Bastille.'
3. 34/33/33 (34% olive oil, 33% coconut oil, and 33% palm oil) (I've done a variant of this I found on Bramble Berry: 'Old Faithful.' It's still curing but looks like it will be nice.
4. Face soap Example: Anne's Shea Butter Supreme (35% olive oil, 35% coconut oil, 30% shea butter) From Anne Watson's Smart Soapmaking book.

2. - Skip the Bastile and join us Lardinators! Try LARD SOAP. You really can't do better when it comes to making an all-pupose skin-loving soap for all ages and skin types that gets you clean without leaving the skin feeling tight. JMHO, best (w/Tea Tree) soap for teenage acne.

3. - Basic Trinity of OIls (aka "Old Faithful") 25% coconut, 35% olive, 40% palm - this combo is often found in many popular online soaps like Dr. Squatsch and others. You can tweak it to your heart's content, even subbing one oil for another for each leg of the trinity -- plus 5% castor.

4. - NOTE: Shea Butter is the best sub for Palm/Lard in a balanced recipe. For a really great soap with a high% of shea butter that kept me coming back for more:
67% SHEA BUTTER CP - INS 155

Face soap - I like Ann Watson's recipes and would recommend trying one of her Milk Soaps. I would not use that particular formula on my face.

5. Earlene's Blacksmith Soap -

6. - To compare Coconut to PKO - Zany's Palm Olive - Has a more elegant, "French triple milled soap" feel to it and is a great shampoo bar for Silver-Haired Foxes like my dear hubby. It rinses clean leaving the hair shiny with no trace of yellow.

 

[Jorah]

2. - Skip the Bastile and join us Lardinators!

I'll check that recipe. This is the lard soap I made over the Memorial Day weekend:

Lard: 1,925 g
Water: 560 g
Lye: 252

I haven't tried it yet, because I want to give it 8 weeks of cure first, but it looks promising.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Aleppo soap, I call it “Aleppo soap my version” It is one of my very favorites! You don’t have to add any fragrance, ( you can if you want) It has a wonderful exotic fragrance of its own. It makes a wonderful body or facial soap.
I also like Black seed oil soap as a brine bar.

I will second that! Aleppo Soap - 80% Olive Oil & 20% Laurel Berry Oil
TEMPS: 100 - 120F.

Lard: 1,925 g

Hmmm. At this stage of the journey, a 500g oils batch is recommended -- make as many small batches as often as you can and you will be soaping with the best of us at your 4-month mark, IMO and IME.

 

[The_Phoenix]

Is this an argument for finding a single base and sticking with it? (not trying to put words in your mouth, I'm really curious)

Not necessarily. Personally, I enjoy playing around with recipes. It’s 50% of what I enjoy about cold process soap making. The bigger point is that you can use any bar of soap for different uses.

I will say that I would not use cold process soap on my hair. And I say this as someone who uses my soap on my face as a daily habit. Our skin is very different from hair.

 

[Jorah]

Hmmm. At this stage of the journey, a 500g oils batch is recommended -- make as many small batches as often as you can and you will be soaping with the best of us at your 4-month mark, IMO and IME.

Yeah, that was part of an experiment to see if I'd enjoy making large batches; I did that one and another the same size with tallow* at the same time. I'm going to focus on small batches the rest of the year. I'm just wrapping an 18-month technical project at work, and starting in July I will be back to 40 hour weeks instead of 50-60 hour weeks and can start soaping again.

*I like the look of the tallow soap, but it has a slight (& slightly unpleasant) scent; if I use tallow again I'll try to offset that.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I want to give it 8 weeks of cure first,

You actually don't have to wait that long to try it. It may sting or make your hands feel dry at first, but, at this stage of the journey, it's okay to "test drive" it as it cures.

I would cut one of those bars in half. Put the sample in a soap dish next to your sink. You can make up a Cure Card to weigh and make notes as the soap cures. Once it stops losing weight you know it's fully cured -- maybe at 4 or 6 weeks instead of 8?.

https://www.thesage.com/products/cure-cards

if I use tallow again I'll try to offset that.

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/oakmoss-to-offset-the-odor-of-lard-tallow.64271/

 

[Jorah]

You actually don't have to wait that long to try it. It may sting or make your hands feel dry at first, but, at this stage of the journey, it's okay to "test drive" it as it cures.

I would cut one of those bars in half. Put the sample in a soap dish next to your sink. You can make up a Cure Card to weigh and make notes as the soap cures. Once it stops losing weight you know it's fully cured -- maybe at 4 or 6 weeks instead of 8?.

https://www.thesage.com/products/cure-cards

Nice, this is the first time I've come across this idea.

 

[TheGecko]

Like most soap makers, I experimented with a lot of different oils and butters, but quickly settled on singe recipe for my Regular Soap and one for my GMS (goat milk soap). I also make a "mechanic's" soap...it's just my Regular Soap with powdered pumice added in.

Two advantages of having a single recipe (or two in my case) is 1) I Master Batch my Oils/Butters and Lye Solution (ready-to-use); I usually make up around 40lbs at a time (takes me about an hour), and 2) It saves me a lot of time and money. I have a spreadsheet that lists every mold I own and it tells me exactly how much of my Oil/Butter mixture, Lye Solution and FO. Of course I could do something similar by spending that hour with my ingredients and a bunch of buckets, but I don't always make the same size batch so the way I do it allows me more flexibility. Having a single recipe allows me to bulk order my Ingredients labels and I have designed my front label so I can bulk order them too and just run them through my printer later with the name of my soap. And it makes it easier when it comes to adding a new soap to my website by having just two templates.

You are welcomed to try my Regular Soap:

35% Olive Oil
20% Coconut Oil
20% Palm Oil
10% Cocoa Butter
10% Shea Butter
5% Castor Oil

33% Lye Concentration
5% Super Fat

1 tea Sodium Lactate PPO
1 tea Kaolin Clay PPO

 

[Obsidian]

My recipes are a whole lot simpler. I have a base recipe 50% lard, 20% coconut, 25% safflower, 5% castor that I alter slightly for different purposes.

For a mechanic/gardner/kitchen soap, I increase the coconut and add cornmeal. No need for three separate recipes for this.

For a gentler soap, I decrease the coconut. For a even gentler soap, I do 75% lard, 25% coconut. Its a super hard and mild bar.

I've made speciality soap with neem or pine tar in place of some of the safflower but no one really likes them so they are off the list.

My really different recipe is a salt bar, 80% coconut, 20% olive. I make these mostly for myself nowdays.

Ruined my hair with 'shampoo' so I don't make those. Most people can't tolerate lye soap on their hair, its not worth the risk

 

[Georgeandstella]

My recipes are a whole lot simpler. I have a base recipe 50% lard, 20% coconut, 25% safflower, 5% castor that I alter slightly for different purposes.

For a mechanic/gardner/kitchen soap, I increase the coconut and add cornmeal. No need for three separate recipes for this.

For a gentler soap, I decrease the coconut. For a even gentler soap, I do 75% lard, 25% coconut. Its a super hard and mild bar.

I've made speciality soap with neem or pine tar in place of some of the safflower but no one really likes them so they are off the list.

My really different recipe is a salt bar, 80% coconut, 20% olive. I make these mostly for myself nowdays.

Ruined my hair with 'shampoo' so I don't make those. Most people can't tolerate lye soap on their hair, its not worth the risk

Hello, I’ve read such a range for the % salt to add to make a salt bar. With the cure time so long, it’s tough to wait and see… How much salt do you add? Thank you

 

[Jorah]

You are welcomed to try my Regular Soap:

I will! Thank you.

. I have a base recipe 50% lard, 20% coconut, 25% safflower, 5% castor that I alter slightly for different purposes.

I look forward to trying it. Thanks!

 

[Obsidian]

Hello, I’ve read such a range for the % salt to add to make a salt bar. With the cure time so long, it’s tough to wait and see… How much salt do you add? Thank you

I use 35% salt. I have used up to 100% but I find 35 performs best for my area.