Newbie here! I think I might have a problem...

[Extreme_Soaping]

Hello good people from the soap making forum!

A couple of weeks ago I decided I would explore the magnificent world of soap making. I like making my own stuff.

I've read almost everything about soap making, everywhere, and seen countless videos on the internet.

So I thought I was ready.

Until now, I've made only 2 batches, and they were nearly identical. I decided to start with the basics: 35% CO and 65% Olive Oil, through the soap calc, etc.
The second one I went wild on the changes and used 40% - 60% (heh I like to play safe).
I'm not using essencial oils yet. I've ordered some online and it still hasn't arrived, so I'm using some knock-off essence oils I ws ableto buy around here.

Anyway...

First problem: On both batches it took FOREVER to trace. I had to stir the damn thing for at least 40 minutes. With a stick blender.
I've seen SO MANY videos of people reaching trace in 2 minutes, that's just ridiculous.
It starts beautiful, and suddenly it starts do get separated and horrendous. It's very weird. Maybe I should be more gentle? I know you should not continuously use the blender, that you should take it easy and slow, but... I just don't know.

Well
The first one got a BEAUTIFUL trace, I almost cried, all of the sudden, after 40 minutes of pure suffering and frustration, BAM, beautiful trace. I honestly don't get it. heheh

the first one, 24 hours later, unmolded:

Look at it. What a beauty.

THEN I decided to cut it.

DISPAIR!
argh. so grainy and soft and oily... but i cutted the whole thing anyway... didn't look good.

Not cool.


The second one:

This one was even softer than the first one. Is it normal? On both cases I used insulation, did everything by the book. If I leave it the way it is for a while, will it get harder and easier to cut? By easier I mean... will it have a clean cut insted of this crumbly mess?

ps: this one took SO LONG to trace that the stick blender overheated and stopped working right at tracing point. I just needed 30 more seconds to get it really smooth... had to pour it anyway.
pps: I forgot to mention that I used around 1 tablespoon of honey on each batch, since I couldn't get trace and I've read honey would help. It didn't.


Well, thank you guys in advance, we'll be seeing each other many other times!

Cheers!


(and sorry for my english)

 

[Lindy]

How long did you let it sit before cutting? I would think your Stick Blender may not be working properly if it took that long to trace. I have used that formula when I first started and it took not longer than 5 minutes to trace.

 

[Susie]

I don't know what essence oils are, so you need to be sure they are skin safe before using in soap.

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

I'm sorry, I messed up with my own language. I meant Fragrance Oils? It is skin safe.

I waited 24 hours before unmolding and cutting it.


my stick blender is brand new. I just bought it for this sole purpose.

it might be because the mix wasn't very "deep" (used a big bowl) and the mixer got some air in it?


(thanks for the replies!)

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Can you also let us know the superfat amount (in fact, for clarity, post a recipe with actual weights) and the approximate temperature that you soaped at?

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

Yes sir.

The stuff I didn't know about I used the calculator's default. 5% superfat.

I soaped at approximately 50°C or 120 F
(I don't have a thermometer, should I get one?)

this is the recipe for the first one:

I'm sorry

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Don't be sorry! Bless you!

You don't need to measure temps too much - I just wanted an indication of how hot it was, plus the insulation and so on.

 

[AMyers]

I am far from an expert. But a batch this small is likely to see more effect from small errors in measuring.

Also, the separating can happen when there are large enough differences in the temperatures between your lye water and your oils. I think a thermometer can be a valuable tool for sure.

I have had a few batches that had to sit for several days before cutting. So, I take it out of the mold, then let it sit for a few more days before trying to cut.

Good luck, and don't give up!

 

[IrishLass]

Welcome, Extreme_Soaping!

AMeyer's brings up a very good point about the potential for errors in weight increasing with the smaller the batch you make (and the errors are not minor- they increase exponentially the lower you go). Unless you have a really good scale that can measure accurately down to .25 of a gram, I wouldn't recommend making a batch any smaller than 500g.

I noticed the water amount was a 'full' one. That may also have contributed to a slow trace.


IrishLass

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome!
Lass, sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean by "full water"?
Also, yes, I have a .00 scale, and tried small batches so I wouldn't have to waste a lot of oil in case of failure
But it's duly noted - bigger batches!

 

[Lindy]

Extreme Soaping, when you are doing a smaller batch, make sure that the whole of the SB head is covered by the ingredients so you get a full blend happening. I think it took so long because you didn't have enough depth in your bowl.

Also for this blend you are better waiting 48 hours before cutting.

Don't let this set-back get to you, it's a wonderful learning opportunity and I expect the next batches will be much easier

 

[JustBeachy]

Welcome to the forum Extreme. Others have hit on all the main points, but here's my two cents.

A smaller batch can be influenced more by small errors in measurement, but your scale is good enough to do a 2lb batch. Just make sure you're sticking to the amounts. When I first started I was making 1 lb batches in a blender. haha

Get a bowl with a smaller diameter. A stick blender, is also know as an immersion blender for a reason. It's designed to be immersed in the liquid. Even if you do get it to mix, you're going to be pulling tons of air into your batter if the head is exposed.

I'd also do a test on your stick blender, just to be sure. I can't imagine your recipe taking 40 minutes to trace, so something is up. I know you said it's new, but it still could be defective. Easiest way to test it is to get a glass that the blender just fits into and goes all the way to the bottom. Fill the glass with water and turn on the blender. It should suck down to the bottom of the glass fairly hard. If you don't get a great suction, then somethings wrong and you need to return the blender.

To me, the pictures look like uneven mixture and some uneven heat, while in the mold. But if those are the worst problems you have learning how to make soap, I'd say you're doing really well.

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

Hahahah I really didn't think this username through.

Thanks for all the answers, people!

Sooo guys, I got a narrower(?) "bowl", and also got a new pigment for my soaping night. Check this out:

Look at that colour! They don't call me Extreme Soaping for nothing.

I also got some babassu oil, and I shall experiment tonight.

I think I'm going for this recipe:

Any thoughts?
Is Canola ok? Or should I just discard it from the recipe?


Cheers!

 

[JustBeachy]

I think you're going to find it a very drying soap on your skin. Bab and CO are basically doing the same thing to the soap. I like to keep the CO under 20 unless I'm making salt bars.

I'd play with it a bit more and try to get your cleansing number down under 20. I shoot for under 15, but that's me.

Do you have any other oils on hand to play with? If you shoot out a list of what you have, it might be easier to steer you in a general direction.

but don't change that color. Now I just have to see it in a soap.

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

I see... I only have these oils and sunflower oil at the moment.

No matter what I do, it always get 13, or a very low number on "creamy". I still don't get these charts....

I've noticed most recipes use Palm oil, and to be honest I've never seen it on sale around here. Is it indispensable? Should I buy it?

Look, I just got the good cleansing, but the hardness "bubbly" and "creamy" doesn't seem nice...



AH!
I forgot a really important question:
Do you guys ever use glycerine in soap making? I just bought pure glicerine because I thought it would be useful... I've never seen people talk about glycerine when it comes to home soap making

 

[JustBeachy]

Criso, that is now made with Palm Oil, will work for you at this stage. You should be able to find it at the grocery store. If you like the palm, you'll probably have to order it online. Lots of people swear by Palm oil. It is a versatile oil . Just read the label and see if it's a mix or just reads something like expeller pressed palm oil.

Sunflower isn't a bad oil at all, just can't use too much or you'll have a soft bar.

Edit. Don't take this as the numbers don't mean anything, but I've found a lot of people get "lost" in the numbers in the early stages. They can get real confusing and some recipes, say Salt Bars, you have to ignore the numbers completely.

No need to add glycerin. Your soap is going to produce it's own glycerin

 

[Seawolfe]

A good fat to use instead of palm is lard - I use both, and right now lard is my clear favorite.

 

[JustBeachy]

Here's something else you can buy at the grocery store. Castor Oil.

If you can find the Castor and the Crisco with Palm, try plugging these into soap calc.

Castor Oil 5%
Coconut 20%
Crisco with Palm 40%
Olive 35%

See what it does to your numbers.

Seawolfe is right, Lard works in place of Palm. I just don't use it, so I'll let the Lard Addicts push you in that direction hahaha

 

[Extreme_Soaping]

I had to google what "crisco" means heheh I'm South American, so I've never seen this brand!
Palm oil and castor oil are really unusual around here, but I googled it and it at least exists.
Should I call off my soaping night?
Place your bets!

 

[JustBeachy]

I had to google what "crisco" means heheh I'm South American, so I've never seen this brand!
Palm oil and castor oil are really unusual around here, but I googled it and it at least exists.
Should I call off my soaping night?
Place your bets!

Nah, if that's all you have , you can make some and use it as a bench mark for when you get more oils. I'd venture to say there's bound to be some other brands of shortening in your grocery store. Just look at the labels and find one that's made with Palm oil.

I don't want to be the one to stop anyone from making some soap. haha