Natural Colorants & Colored Lather

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Cellador

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I have made a couple of soaps with natural colorants (namely Annatto Seeds and Turmeric). With these soaps, I have noticed a slight discoloration of the soap lather- just enough to look slightly yellow/orange against the white sink as I rinse. Is this typical of natural colorants? I feel like I didn't use much in regard to the recipes- about 2 tsp of infused/strained additive in 7-8 oz of OO (about 25 -32 % of total oils in the recipes). Is this too much?
 
Out of curiosity, if deciding to sell soaps, do you add something to your label stating that it may stain white towels etc? How would one state it on the label I wonder?
 
Out of curiosity, if deciding to sell soaps, do you add something to your label stating that it may stain white towels etc? How would one state it on the label I wonder?

Personally, I would like to sell one day (many years from now). Although I'd prefer to use natural colorants, I won't use them if it means I'll have to always be worried about lather staining customers' items. I assume I'll just have to continue to work on finding the right proportions of ingredients. :)
 
Personally, I would like to sell one day (many years from now). Although I'd prefer to use natural colorants, I won't use them if it means I'll have to always be worried about lather staining customers' items. I assume I'll just have to continue to work on finding the right proportions of ingredients. :)

For natural colourants it seems that there is an optimum amount that doesn't stain but does colour. Unfortunately there are very few natural colourants that stick over time which is very disappointing.

Unfortunately I haven't used annatto and I put my tumeric directly into the batter (not a great idea as it is scratchy!).

In a 1 kg batch of oils I used 45g of oil infused with spirulina. So much less than you. Great green colour that didn't run but it faded.

Good luck with your search.
 
Any colorant used in a great enough quantity will tint lather. Many will stain a washcloth. Activated charcoal usually washes out in the laundry , but I'm not sure about others.
 
Is it the same if you're using colored lye water (like tomato and carrot juice) or is this mostly for powdered natural colorants? I am really interested in using natural fragrances and colorants but maybe not if they're going to stain me and my towels (especially if not all of it comes out in the wash :think:).
 
Is it the same if you're using colored lye water (like tomato and carrot juice) or is this mostly for powdered natural colorants? I am really interested in using natural fragrances and colorants but maybe not if they're going to stain me and my towels (especially if not all of it comes out in the wash :think:).

Ive only used the actual vegetable.
They only run if you use too much carrot or tomato. I used enough water to dissolve the lye then the rest in purée. I found if I cooked the purée until it was really quite dry and used it as soon as it was cool the colour was a little darker, didn't run at all, was a great colour to start but faded very quickly - within weeks. There are very few natural colourants (annatto is one) that actually stick in CP soap.

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=56821
Look in the above link - Gigi did a huge experiment on the infusing oil to really high concentrations and it just doesn't work.

Nerdy farm wife makes it appear to work but she adds (non-natural) colours so it's all the colour that does the work. I guess some people sell the before a good cure and let their customers suffer with a fawn soap.,
 
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I'm using mostly mineral pigments, since I don't want to use artificial colors and the botanicals just don't give me the range in color that I want. With powdered pigments, I'm using 1/8 to 1/2 teaspoon for my colors. Usage rate runs up to about 1 teaspoon PPO with the mineral pigments (though I suspect that rate is probably kind of heavy handed). Mineral pigments WILL stain fabric, skin and surfaces if you use too much. Or if you spill the powder...
 
Ive only used the actual vegetable.
They only run if you use too much carrot or tomato. I used enough water to dissolve the lye then the rest in purée. I found if I cooked the purée until it was really quite dry and used it as soon as it was cool the colour was a little darker, didn't run at all, was a great colour to start but faded very quickly - within weeks. There are very few natural colourants (annatto is one) that actually stick in CP soap.

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=56821
Look in the above link - Gigi did a huge experiment on the infusing oil to really high concentrations and it just doesn't work.

Nerdy farm wife makes it appear to work but she adds (non-natural) colours so it's all the colour that does the work. I guess some people sell the before a good cure and let their customers suffer with a fawn soap.,

I had originally intended on making only "all natural" soaps, but I've since realized that there's really no such thing. I'd still like to use lots of natural ingredients and goodies in my soaps, but I think I'm starting to feel like using a mica may not be so bad. :???:

Funny you mention Nerdy Farm Wife, because I really admire her work. I didn't realize she used non-natural colorants though.
 
I had originally intended on making only "all natural" soaps, but I've since realized that there's really no such thing. I'd still like to use lots of natural ingredients and goodies in my soaps, but I think I'm starting to feel like using a mica may not be so bad. :???:

Funny you mention Nerdy Farm Wife, because I really admire her work. I didn't realize she used non-natural colorants though.

I share your disappointment deeply.
I really feel selling soap that fades is not right.
The best natural colour is clay. Be very careful to buy skin safe and adjust the amount used for different shades. But then you have to put up with the feel and the qualities (drying etc) that various clays brings to the soap.

The nerdy wife's website is great and she's very generous. Her soaps are beautiful and the recipes pretty good. Just check the ingredients though and you'll see what I mean but it's better than selling a soap that fades and the soap still has the properties of the carrot purée etc.
 
I had originally intended on making only "all natural" soaps, but I've since realized that there's really no such thing. I'd still like to use lots of natural ingredients and goodies in my soaps, but I think I'm starting to feel like using a mica may not be so bad. :???:

I started out the same way. I quickly learned that the scents and colors I wanted weren't going to happen without FO's and micas. I was very unhappy with fading natural colors myself.

On a side note, I get scent triggered migraines and the more natural way with EO's is actually worse for me. I do react to some FO's, but not as many so long as I avoid phthalates.

You are correct that soap can't be all natural since lye is lab created. Good luck on your journey to the soap that makes you happy!
 
On a side note, I get scent triggered migraines and the more natural way with EO's is actually worse for me. I do react to some FO's, but not as many so long as I avoid phthalates.

You are not alone
Some EOs give me headaches, breathing difficulties and dizziness when I put them on my skin. Not just in a hot shower which of course exacerbates the reaction. Just because it's natural doesn't mean it's safe for everyone!
 
I'm also doing the pros and cons of micas etc, pigments. But right now, I'm still experimenting with indigo, madder, alkanet, turmeric, annato, spirulina, calendula -oil infused, carrot powder etc. It was sad when I realized that Olive leaf powder and I think Tomato Powder gives you a tan/light tan color. That's natural soap colors will do...
 
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