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Vandam

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I've been reading the current soda ash discussion and have looked in prior discussions but still need help. I got soda ash on my soap that I made in a mold. The top is fine, just the parts in the mold. Not sure if the mold is silicone or plastic, they are the ones windy point sells, 3 cavity molds. The soap in the silicone loaf mold from the same batch was fine. Is there something I can coat the mold with, should I wrap it up more as it is probably cooling faster? And also as they are just for my personal use can I leave them as is until I use them or should I get the ash off now? They are okay to use?
Thanks for any input.
 
Hallo Vandam, I've had success removing soda ash using a steam iron. I put the iron on steam mode at the highest temperature (cotton setting). I waved the iron over the soap, spurting steam over it, and the soda ash magically melted away (before, after steaming, after drying):
img_20190324_091034_removing_soda_ash-png.37726


I understand that soda ash is harmless, so it is just a cosmetic problem.

Hope this helps, Paul
 
Oh that is magic! I couldn't quite figure out how people were steam ironing their soap, the images I had, lol. Some days I wonder where my brain is. Thanks.
 
And also as they are just for my personal use can I leave them as is until I use them or should I get the ash off now? They are okay to use?
Thanks for any input.


You can do either as it is entirely up to you. Might I suggest you wash one off, and leave the rest as is and see if more ash forms on the one you washed off. I've had that happen, making the intitial wash sort of a waste of time. Not sure why that happened, as it doesn't happen with all of my soaping formulas and I didn't look into it at all. But it can happen. What I have noticed is that once the soap is placed in regular use, the soda ash does not return. Be prepared for a diminished lather and bubbly effect with the first use or two of the soap if you leave the ash on until placing it in service.

And yes, they are okay to use so long as they are zap-free. (You know about the zap-test, right?)

So far as how to prevent soda ash forming on the inside surfaces of soap (the sides that touched the mold and were not open to the surface air) - I have no idea. That has never happened to me. I have read about it, but without that personal experience, I really cannot offer a solution.
 
I get this problem regularly. I am using 8 cell silicone moulds. I have 9 varieties of soap. 4 varieties get the soda ash on the parts inside the mould, usually on the corners. However this isn't a superficial issue, it goes right into the soap a couple of millimetres. It looks like the corners have bleached and sometimes the corners and bottom edges are crumbly, but not always. In this case steaming or wiping does not work. I had one bar which I used and after over a week of regular use you could still detect where the corners were lighter in colour to the rest of the soap. I do sometimes get more "normal" soda ash on top too. I don't know why it happens, and to only some of my soaps, all of which have a similar base recipe. My last batch I took Penelope Jane's advice (or a variation thereof) and CPOPed the worst affected bars to force gel as well as covering them with greaseproof paper and a towel to try and exclude at least some of the air (cling film refused to cling to the silicone moulds.) I also left them in the mould for at least two or three days before unmoulding. In three of the four varieties it worked. The worst affected one, (ironically everybody's favourite soap, lemongrass and poppy seed) still got the faded corners and edges though no crumbling this time. It is very frustrating and I still don't now why it happens and why only some soaps. There doesn't appear to be any logic to which ones it happens to and which it doesn't. I did wonder whether older silicon moulds were the problem but I'm not sure. Forcing gel certainly did help in most of the cases, so it might be worth a try. Some people spray alcohol on top as well, though this won't affect the ash inside the moulds. I did wonder whether oiling the inside of the moulds with mineral oil might work, though I haven't tried this myself. I think some people do this to aid unmoulding?

Good luck and please post if you are successful in curing the problem. I for one would be very grateful.
 
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