Renraw9002
Member
Most of the ones she has says they can be used topically, but should be mixed with carrier oils. They're Doterra brand mostly if that helps.
I doubt they will hold up but i guess its worth a tryMost of the ones she has says they can be used topically, but should be mixed with carrier oils. They're Doterra brand mostly if that helps.
Topical ones should be ok. They are going to be hugely expensive to use in soap because you need to use them at about 4% and the vast majority of them fade really quickly so it's a bit of a waste in soap.Most of the ones she has says they can be used topically, but should be mixed with carrier oils. They're Doterra brand mostly if that helps.
"Renraw9002, post: 790406, member: 34015"]I'll likely only ever make 1lb batches since I don't think even my wife will use anything I make so I'm sure even a 1lb batch will last me a good long time, but still good advice for sure.
Guess now's as good a time as any to ask this by the way. Where on earth do people buy the oils and butters? I mean lye, distilled water, CO, and OO are easy enough to come by, but where would you go for pure shea butter or pure avocado oil?
At least here in the US Cosmetic grade oils are mixed oils that make up the fatty acid profile of the main oil such as Avocado Oil. Soapers Choice sells some Cosmetics grade oils.There is pharmaceutical grade, food grade, cosmetic grade (lips and skin safe) and non skin safe products which include artists clays.
I really think you are confusing EO's with non-body safe FO's. Maybe I am incorrect but I have not heard of non-safe body EO's other than restricted usage EO's per FDA. There are certainly burning fragrance oils that are not body safe.Probably not bc most of those are therapeutic grade and not body safe
At least here in the US Cosmetic grade oils are mixed oils that make up the fatty acid profile of the main oil such as Avocado Oil. Soapers Choice sells some Cosmetics grade oils.
I really think you are confusing EO's with non-body safe FO's. Maybe I am incorrect but I have not heard of non-safe body EO's other than restricted usage EO's per FDA. There are certainly burning fragrance oils that are not body safe.
Topical ones should be ok. They are going to be hugely expensive to use in soap because you need to use them at about 4% and the vast majority of them fade really quickly so it's a bit of a waste in soap.
I doubt they will hold up but i guess its worth a try
Doterra oils are for burning and diffusers, i was a doterra sales agent for two years but if anyone wants to waste the money, as they are pricey and soap with them go ahead.
What's the proper way to use titanium dioxide and black mica? I'm not positive I did it right.
It would help to know how you 'did it' to be able to properly advise you. With that said, first...it your TD water or oil soluble? Mine is water and I have it premixed in a bottle (previous lesson learned); I use 1 tea TD to 1 Tab Distilled Water and shake the bottle well before using. How much I use is dependent on 1) the natural color of my oils/butters, and 2) how 'white' I want the soap to be. And don't forget that TD will accelerate trace and it has to be stick blended in. When it comes to black...I just used Activated Charcoal for the first time and despite what I heard about it, that it doesn't come out truly black, mine did. Of course, there was an accidental spillage and I didn't gel. I was told for a true 'black', you should mix Black Oxide and AC together (I would recommend dispersing in oil first).
It says it disperses well in oil or water, but I weighed out my distilled water then took out 2 Tsb to 2 tsp titanium dioxide, heated the water a bit, then mixed the TD in the hot water, then put it in half of my oil/ butter mixture. I repeated this for the black mica, but I don't think it worked as well. It came out more grayish than black.
You might want check into a leave-in conditioner for your hair. My BIL wore a ball cap when he went to work for a concreate company when he was 16. Less than a decade later, he had lost most of the hair under the ball cap. It wasn't the cap, but the dust from the aggregates used in making concreate that got trapped under the cap and wore away his hair follicles. If you ask older ladies who have worn slacks/jeans for a number of years, you will find that we have little to no hair on the backs of our legs...same thing.
One thing I have learned about soap making is not use a lot of expensive ingredients as the saponification process destroys almost all of the benefits. Best to save those ingredients for lotions. And not to forget, soap is a wash on/off product...how long is it actually on your skin, before it is rinsed back off.
Wheat germ oil does not make nice soap. Likewise, jojoba and borage are best used in beard oils and balms where you can get more benefits from the high cost. For soaping oils, think about using lard, which combines well with tallow to make a very gentle soap that is easy on sensitive skin. You might also consider adding some neem oil or pine tar.
I also started making soap because of very sensitive skin, both my own and that of others in my family. What works best for me in soap is high lard, low CO, no OO, vinegar for the lye water, colloidal oat powder, and powdered goat milk. I have used honey but prefer regular sugar or sorbitol because they are both easier to use and create just as many bubbles, if not more.
But cheap honey is just fine, although many of those are mixed with HFCS, which is very controversial as to its health effects. Aloe vera juice for the lye water is a another nice way to add sugar, although I prefer vinegar since it also hardens the soap and, IMO, softens the lather a bit.
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