Not sure that i get what you mean by that - Carnauba wax is 80% of 33%? If that is literally what you mean, then I understand it as I would add another 20% of the 33% of something else to make up the wax component. I prefer not to use carnauba wax as it is palm derived and I would prefer not to go down the road of adding anything too chemically if I can help it. But I do have a truckload of cetyl alcohol here that will take me years to use up in my shampoo bars, so that's an option. I can get brassica alcohols. I can get rice-bran wax and vee-wax. Maybe I should try some of those? I just thought I would try lotion bars out and I liked the sound of
@Zing 's simple 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 but it's now starting to sound very complicated. As i say, I don't know that I'm sold on the idea of a bar instead of a lotion anyways...
Sorry, if I made it seem complicated. It's not once you understand the parts (does that make sense), it's kind of like finding the soap you like. It's really a personal choice.
I like experimenting though....
But..
The one third rule is correct. And, so yes: 80% of 33% (so what 26.6?) And candelilla would be something like 18-20%
33% rule will work with beeswax and it's most subs. But some substitutes need more, some need less.
I honestly didn't mean to confuse you, sometimes I forget that too much information is overwhelming.
It is isn't a complicated thing at all.
I don't like soy wax in my LB formulas but have got fair trade organic carnuaba wax and candelilla wax in my store. Love both of them.
I do believe that ecosystems need to be protected and sustainability is most important. I too have issues with palm tree production but carnuaba palms unlike other palms, the whole palm gets used. It's often referred to the tree of life in Brazil as they even use the seeds for coffee like stuff. I know the one I get comes with certification. I absolutely agree palm oil production isn't great (try to avoid or choose responsibly) but nor is soy or several other industries. I just try to get ones that are RSPO and fairtrade. I figure I'm doing my part. We can only do what we can.
I do think mango, babassu, tucuma, illipe are better than Shea and Cocoa Butters but that's obviously a personal opinion. I do find that Shea seems to be draggy.
If you cannot bring yourself to do them and you have cetearyl alcohol you can make a very basic cream - if you use a stainless steel container you can send to get properly sterilised or you can do it yourself if you just are using yourself. Or glass bottles
If you wanted to stick with soy, I would maybe reduce it and add a butter like illipe and a couple of light oils. If reducing soy wax to 33 keep your butters at 33 and oil 33 - add your ROE and fragrance. Change your shea as your oils all seem quite light.
Let me know if I've just confused you more.