Is there are thread that I can look at that discusses the different olive oils?

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cayosusa

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I see in some calculators there is a difference between olive oil pure and olive oil pomace. I am wondering where Great Value (Walmart brand) Classic Olive Oil would fit in? Would this be pure or pomace??? Do the different grades/types of olive oil make a difference in the final soap product? TIA
 
Yes the different form of olive oil make a difference.
Any olive oil with additives will be different. Look on the label and check what the ingredients are.
EVOO and light OO should react the same in soap and should feel the same.
Pomace accelerates soapnification.
Some olive oils, especially in the US, have been doctored and might not contain pure OO.

We get good, unadulterated olive oil in Australia and the customers like EVOO.
I wouldn’t use pomace in soap as the OO is extracted using chemicals and I don’t want them on my skin. Many people in the US use pomace but I personally think you should label it as pomace, so the customer has the choice to avoid it.
 
Do the different grades/types of olive oil make a difference in the final soap product?

Yes and no. EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and VOO (virgin olive oil) are pretty much the same (first press), I use it for cooking, but I won't use it for soap making as it is not cost effective. Then you have your standard OO (olive oil)...I get mine from Costco by the case.; it's the second press. It can be used for cooking, but doesn't have the same flavor as EVOO/VOO. But you need to be careful when buying OO from the grocery store or outside mainstream soap suppliers because often times you aren't getting 100% OO, you're getting 'blend' of OO and another oil like canola, soybean, grapeseed and safflower to name a few. The problem with 'blends' is that different oils can have different saponification values. You would need to know that percentages of the oils in the blend and then run those percentages through a soap calculator to make sure you are using the proper amount of lye...elsewise you can end up with a soap that is lye-heavy or superfatted more than you planned.

Last is PO (pomace oil), which is the last 'pressing' (if you will) of the olive. The pulp from the first two pressings is combined with solvents to extract the remaining 5% - 8% of the oil remaining. I used PO until I got my Costco Card and started by OO by the case. It traces faster, making it difficult to do more intricate designs, swirls, layers. You can mitigate some of that by dividing out your oils/butters and then not adding your lye solution until you are ready to pour...which is great for layers, but not so much for swirls.

I may go back to using PO if I can get it cheaper that OO from Costco for my GMS since I don't color it...just FOs/EOs/
 

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