xoticsoaps
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Is bubble bath just a less cleansing, more bubbly version of general liquid soap? Are there any specific do's and don'ts when making you're own from scratch?
I have some questions about bubble bath...
- Thread starter xoticsoaps
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The "dos and don'ts" are pretty simple -- you can't. The lather from a lye soap will not make a good bubble bath foam -- copious, fluffy, and long lasting. You need a synthetic detergent mix to get lots of long lasting bubbles.
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/03/bubble-bath.html
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/03/bubble-bath.html
liquidsoaplady
Active Member
Making a liquid soap combining NaOH and KOH with potassium carbonate, then using a combination of borax and citric acid, and the addition of glycerine. A very high percentage of coconut oil and and soft oils high in oleic acids, such as olive oil have produced some pretty good bubble baths. Nice persistent foam, lots of lather, that is adequate. I've used commercial bubble baths that didn't last any longer than my homemade formulations. Just my two cents.......:shh:
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Perhaps you can give more detailed information on how to achieve this. This forum is for sharing and helping other soaper's so I'm sure many would be interested in your knowledge.
liquidsoaplady
Active Member
My explanation is quite lengthy, it will take you through the entire liquid soap making process, but I will do my best to detail it here in a few paragraphs as possible.........
I use the paste method as I feel it really saponifies the best and achieves crystal clear soap.
My basic formula is
Oils
44 oz 76 degree Coconut Oil
5 oz Olive oil
Lye Solution
KOH 9.75 oz
NaOH 2.32 oz
Potassium Carbonate .12 oz
Distilled water 32.73 oz
*Add potassium carbonate first, stir to dissolve, then add KOH, stirring to dissolve and finally the NaOH, let cool to around 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Heat the oils to 160 degrees, while the oils are heating, make your lye solution as instructed above.
Add your lye solution to the heated oils, oils are 160 degree the lye solution is 140 degree, stir with whisk until blended, the use stick blender, alternating between wire whisk and stick blender to eliminate bubbles which increase saponification time.
Once a thick paste is achieved, turn crock to low, cover and let cook anywhere from 4 hours to overnight, your preference, checking often.
Once the 'paste' had achieved a translucent quality, test, by dissolving an ounce of paste in 6 ounces of hot distilled water, let it cool. If it is clear, it has completely saponified. A phenol solution can be used to absolutely verify it all fatty acids have been saponified.
I place 9 ounces of distilled water per pound of paste usually 6 pounds of paste, 16 oz x 9 oz = 144 oz of distilled water to my big stock pot for dilution.
Then I dissolve 3 oz of borax into the dilution water
Then I add the cooked paste, cover and let it simmer on low until dissolved, checking frequently.
Once it has dissolved, I then add 4.5 oz of a 20% citric acid solution, (2 oz of citric acid to 8 oz,boiling distilled water, to dissolve it)
Stir well to incorporate, then add 3 oz of glycerine, any essential oils and coloring.
Add to jars for sequestering.
I would love to hear how this formula works for others, please post your stories.
Thanks!
Lisa
I use the paste method as I feel it really saponifies the best and achieves crystal clear soap.
My basic formula is
Oils
44 oz 76 degree Coconut Oil
5 oz Olive oil
Lye Solution
KOH 9.75 oz
NaOH 2.32 oz
Potassium Carbonate .12 oz
Distilled water 32.73 oz
*Add potassium carbonate first, stir to dissolve, then add KOH, stirring to dissolve and finally the NaOH, let cool to around 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Heat the oils to 160 degrees, while the oils are heating, make your lye solution as instructed above.
Add your lye solution to the heated oils, oils are 160 degree the lye solution is 140 degree, stir with whisk until blended, the use stick blender, alternating between wire whisk and stick blender to eliminate bubbles which increase saponification time.
Once a thick paste is achieved, turn crock to low, cover and let cook anywhere from 4 hours to overnight, your preference, checking often.
Once the 'paste' had achieved a translucent quality, test, by dissolving an ounce of paste in 6 ounces of hot distilled water, let it cool. If it is clear, it has completely saponified. A phenol solution can be used to absolutely verify it all fatty acids have been saponified.
I place 9 ounces of distilled water per pound of paste usually 6 pounds of paste, 16 oz x 9 oz = 144 oz of distilled water to my big stock pot for dilution.
Then I dissolve 3 oz of borax into the dilution water
Then I add the cooked paste, cover and let it simmer on low until dissolved, checking frequently.
Once it has dissolved, I then add 4.5 oz of a 20% citric acid solution, (2 oz of citric acid to 8 oz,boiling distilled water, to dissolve it)
Stir well to incorporate, then add 3 oz of glycerine, any essential oils and coloring.
Add to jars for sequestering.
I would love to hear how this formula works for others, please post your stories.
Thanks!
Lisa
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I will be trying this as soon as the wedding is over and I have completed the move. Thank you for sharing your recipe!
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Liquidsoaplady, Would you mind explaining how you arrived at your amounts for potassium carbonate in the lye solution, and the Borax, the citric acid solution, and the glycerine in the dilution phase? Are they derived from general usage recommendations, or completely through personal tweaking?
Also, I never use a recipe I have not run through a calculator personally with any decent results, so can you share your SF and percentages of NaOH and KOH? I can't get the numbers to come out due to the borax and K2CO3.
Sounds very interesting. I'd be willing to try this.
liquidsoaplady
Active Member
Susie,
I would love to hear how it turns out for you! And congratulations on your wedding!!
Lisa (Honey)
I would love to hear how it turns out for you! And congratulations on your wedding!!
Lisa (Honey)
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liquidsoaplady
Active Member
Hi CM4bleenmb,
I use potassium carbonate at a rate of 2 to 2.5 oz per the total weight of the soap paste, as a rule. For example I make 6 pounds of paste, 6 lbs of paste x 2.5 % = .15oz, I always add it first to room temperature distilled water to prevent any volcanic activity.
Borax at 3 oz to the dilution water is just my preference from experimenting, allows the soap to stay liquid at a lower water to true soap concentration, boosts foaming, softens the water and acts as a emulisfier
4.5 oz of a 20% Citric Acid solution is to me is just the standard neutralization amount, I also like to add it in addition to the borax to act as a chelating agent, which helps foaming in hard water.
Glycerin, I like to add at a rate or 3 oz to enhance foaming, this is just through my own experience and experimenting.
I hope I answered all your questions.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks!
The amounts of K carbonate are derived from the amount of soap paste I make x 2.5%. For example 6 pounds of paste x 2.5% = .15 oz
The borax and citric acid are just my personal preference, borax acts as emulsifier, boosts foaming, water softener, and allows the soap to remain fluid a lower water dilution rates, a thicker soap.
Citric acid is just my standard neutralization rate from my own experiences and experiments. I like to add it in addition to the borax to act as a chelating agent.
Glycerin is just a standard amount I add to enhance foaming.
These are amounts and additives that have worked well for me.
Hope I answered your questions, feel free to ask..........
Didn't mean to post response twice, the site is giving me a few issues............
I use potassium carbonate at a rate of 2 to 2.5 oz per the total weight of the soap paste, as a rule. For example I make 6 pounds of paste, 6 lbs of paste x 2.5 % = .15oz, I always add it first to room temperature distilled water to prevent any volcanic activity.
Borax at 3 oz to the dilution water is just my preference from experimenting, allows the soap to stay liquid at a lower water to true soap concentration, boosts foaming, softens the water and acts as a emulisfier
4.5 oz of a 20% Citric Acid solution is to me is just the standard neutralization amount, I also like to add it in addition to the borax to act as a chelating agent, which helps foaming in hard water.
Glycerin, I like to add at a rate or 3 oz to enhance foaming, this is just through my own experience and experimenting.
I hope I answered all your questions.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks!
The amounts of K carbonate are derived from the amount of soap paste I make x 2.5%. For example 6 pounds of paste x 2.5% = .15 oz
The borax and citric acid are just my personal preference, borax acts as emulsifier, boosts foaming, water softener, and allows the soap to remain fluid a lower water dilution rates, a thicker soap.
Citric acid is just my standard neutralization rate from my own experiences and experiments. I like to add it in addition to the borax to act as a chelating agent.
Glycerin is just a standard amount I add to enhance foaming.
These are amounts and additives that have worked well for me.
Hope I answered your questions, feel free to ask..........
Didn't mean to post response twice, the site is giving me a few issues............
Last edited by a moderator:
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Wonderful! Thank you. I did a search to see what potassium carbonate is and found a video for how to extract it from banana peels. :Kitten Love: It's not something I care to try, but the stuff I run across because of my soap making never ceases to amaze me.
liquidsoaplady
Active Member
Sorry it's taken so long to reply, site giving me issues and been moving. I have replied before but it didn't stick, let's try it again.
Most of my numbers come from Catherine Failor's book initially, then tweaked through my personal experience of what does and does not work.
I have never gotten in the habit of using a lye calculator. I also do my own calculations based on the formula attached.
Most of my numbers come from Catherine Failor's book initially, then tweaked through my personal experience of what does and does not work.
I have never gotten in the habit of using a lye calculator. I also do my own calculations based on the formula attached.
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No, I haven't tried the bubble bath recipe in this thread.
To answer your other question -- Whether you use citric acid or not depends on how you create the recipe. Liquid soap is liquid soap, regardless of whether you call it bubble bath, face wash, body wash, or whatever. The advice given here for neutralization is for a liquid soap that is made with a deliberate excess of alkali. If you don't want to neutralize, then avoid using lye-heavy soaping methods.
No-neutralization Liquid Soap Tutorials:
Irish Lass: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?p=428988 see posts 8 and 9
Susie: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49852
To answer your other question -- Whether you use citric acid or not depends on how you create the recipe. Liquid soap is liquid soap, regardless of whether you call it bubble bath, face wash, body wash, or whatever. The advice given here for neutralization is for a liquid soap that is made with a deliberate excess of alkali. If you don't want to neutralize, then avoid using lye-heavy soaping methods.
No-neutralization Liquid Soap Tutorials:
Irish Lass: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?p=428988 see posts 8 and 9
Susie: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49852
Glad to help! 
The soap breaks down into fatty acids and the sodium salt of whatever acid you've added. In short -- it isn't soap anymore. A liquid (KOH) soap that's been "broken" by adding acid will end up with a fluffy white layer of fatty acid floating on top of what soap is left. A bar (NaOH) soap will be soft and greasy.
