eucalypta
Well-Known Member
I promised to do a photo tutorial, but haven't found the time yet. So for starters, please find the written tutorial below. I think that it speaks for itself, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
A note: the time needed depends on the used oils. An all olive soap requires a lot more time than a formula containing a lot of solid oils and butters.
HPitMW - 500 grams oil batch (or 1 pound)
Step 1:
microwave: set the power level to half.
Step 2:
- Measure and melt the solid oils and butters.
- Using half power, melt the oils for ca 2 minutes, stirring afterwards until they are (mostly) melted.
- Then stir in the remaining liquid oils.
Step 3:
Prepare lye solution; use full water (standard setting in SoapCalc).
No need to let the lye solution cool!
Step 4:
Mix lye (SB) into the oils and continue mixing until heavy trace. (further stickblending is impossible)
The first time you try this process, watch your soap carefully, as each MW cooks differently. (Once you're familiar with the process, you might want to adjust the MW settings according to your findings.)
Step 5:
Put the container in the MW.
Start with 2 minutes
Stir the soap (manually, with a spatula or spoon)
Step 6:
- Set the timer again for 2 minutes.
- Check the soap after 1 minute. (just open the door and leave it open until you put your batch back in. Saves resetting the timer constantly.)
After these 4 minutes the soap usually starts rising and bubbling.
As soon as you see it rising high (through the window of the MW) open the door and stir. Continue cooking and stir every time the soap bubbles up.
Step 7:
After 6-8 minutes total (your mileage might vary), the soap will look mostly translucent.
You're done cooking.
Step 8:
Add colour (Or divide and use more colours)
Step 9:
Stir and let it cool down a bit, then add fragance.
Step 10:
Glop into the mould; tap it down to avoid air bubbles.
Let it sit overnight; unmould, cut and enjoy.
You may leave to cure it a bit longer to lose some moisture if necessary.
I use this method primarily to make balls or other embeds for a future soap. Those end up real smooth.
Also, it is a great way to "salvage" a batch that causes soap on a stick, or seizes on you.
You might find it necessary to add some water and use a stickblender, when the soap is really solid, until the batch is smooth.
A note: the time needed depends on the used oils. An all olive soap requires a lot more time than a formula containing a lot of solid oils and butters.
HPitMW - 500 grams oil batch (or 1 pound)
Step 1:
microwave: set the power level to half.
Step 2:
- Measure and melt the solid oils and butters.
- Using half power, melt the oils for ca 2 minutes, stirring afterwards until they are (mostly) melted.
- Then stir in the remaining liquid oils.
Step 3:
Prepare lye solution; use full water (standard setting in SoapCalc).
No need to let the lye solution cool!
Step 4:
Mix lye (SB) into the oils and continue mixing until heavy trace. (further stickblending is impossible)
The first time you try this process, watch your soap carefully, as each MW cooks differently. (Once you're familiar with the process, you might want to adjust the MW settings according to your findings.)
Step 5:
Put the container in the MW.
Start with 2 minutes
Stir the soap (manually, with a spatula or spoon)
Step 6:
- Set the timer again for 2 minutes.
- Check the soap after 1 minute. (just open the door and leave it open until you put your batch back in. Saves resetting the timer constantly.)
After these 4 minutes the soap usually starts rising and bubbling.
As soon as you see it rising high (through the window of the MW) open the door and stir. Continue cooking and stir every time the soap bubbles up.
Step 7:
After 6-8 minutes total (your mileage might vary), the soap will look mostly translucent.
You're done cooking.
Step 8:
Add colour (Or divide and use more colours)
Step 9:
Stir and let it cool down a bit, then add fragance.
Step 10:
Glop into the mould; tap it down to avoid air bubbles.
Let it sit overnight; unmould, cut and enjoy.
You may leave to cure it a bit longer to lose some moisture if necessary.
I use this method primarily to make balls or other embeds for a future soap. Those end up real smooth.
Also, it is a great way to "salvage" a batch that causes soap on a stick, or seizes on you.
You might find it necessary to add some water and use a stickblender, when the soap is really solid, until the batch is smooth.
Last edited:
