Help with lotion recipe from DIY Bath & Body

[Georgeandstella]

Last night I finished my second batch of DIY lotion-big fail. (My first batch was lovely).
A. It is a watery consistency with unincorporated water.
B. The concentrated base is very hard, like coco wafer consistency, I have to break it up with a knife.

Four changes:
1. I used BTMS instead of emulsifying wax (to the concentrated base)
2. I added 1% dimethicone (part of the 5% additives)
3. I think this is the problem-after adding the boiling water and emulsifying to a lovely mixture, I, unthinkingly, added cold orange blossom hydrosol (20% of the liquid. This was my fragrance, deducted from the amount of boiling water). Should I have boiled this with the water? Will it lose it’s fragrance?
4. I added 1/4 tsp hyaluronic acid powder (should I have made it into a gel first for proper incorporation?)

An additional question:
The recipe gives the option to sub the coconut oil with liquid oils, such as sunflower-will this change the consistency of the lotion?

To fix it, I’m thinking of
-bringing the whole thing to a boil and using the emulsion blender.
-should I add more concentrate base?

Sorry so many questions, I changed too many things at once…

 

[AliOop]

@Georgeandstella my concentrated base can get very hard, as well, especially when I use coconut oil rather than a liquid oil. BTMS is also quite hard; I don't know if it is harder than emulsifying wax, but that might be part of the issue with the hardness.

I didn't think that BTMS was as strong of an emulsifier as e-wax. That could be part of the reason your emulsion didn't hold. But adding the cold hydrosol was almost certainly a factor in breaking the emulsion if you did that before the lotion had cooled significantly. I don't boil my hydrosols, but I do warm them to 140ºF and combine them with the preservative before adding that to a warm emulsion. I also keep stick-blending for a bit after that.

Regarding the use of sunflower instead of coconut in the base, I did something similar recently with meadowfoam seed oil. The base took longer to set up and felt a little more oily to the touch than batches made with CO. It's firm now, but still softer than when I used CO, and has a yellow color instead of being pure white. However, the color of my finished lotion was barely changed; the white wasn't quite as bright, but it was still white.

Regarding the HA, I have never added the powder directly. Instead, I make a small bottle of HA solution that I keep on hand for adding to lotions. Like @Misschief, I subtract the amount from my total water. Here is a good article about how to make the solution to keep on hand.

 

[Georgeandstella]

@Georgeandstella my concentrated base can get very hard, as well, especially when I use coconut oil rather than a liquid oil. BTMS is also quite hard; I don't know if it is harder than emulsifying wax, but that might be part of the issue with the hardness.

I didn't think that BTMS was as strong of an emulsifier as e-wax. That could be part of the reason your emulsion didn't hold. But adding the cold hydrosol was almost certainly a factor in breaking the emulsion if you did that before the lotion had cooled significantly. I don't boil my hydrosols, but I do warm them to 140ºF and combine them with the preservative before adding that to a warm emulsion. I also keep stick-blending for a bit after that.

Regarding the use of sunflower instead of coconut in the base, I did something similar recently with meadowfoam seed oil. The base took longer to set up and felt a little greasier than batches made with CO. It's firm now, but still softer than when I used coconut, and has a yellow color instead of being pure white. However, the color of my finished lotion was barely changed; the white wasn't quite as bright, but it was still white.

Regarding the HA, I have never added the powder directly. Instead, I make a small bottle of HA solution that I keep on hand for adding to lotions. Like @Misschief, I subtract the amount from my total water. Here is a good article about how to make the solution to keep on hand.

Thank you for this, and the article clarifies that the hyaluronic solution can be included in the heated phase. I always worry if heat will diminish the properties of ingredients.

And for the BTMS-it’s what I had on hand, but I do like the emulsifying wax and will order more.

 

[Misschief]

I just made my first batch of concentrate. Can't wait to try some of these variations.
Thanks for sharing your expertise with this recipe @Misschief , very much appreciated!

Any time! If you want inspiration on how to use it, don't hesitate to ask.

Last night I finished my second batch of DIY lotion-big fail. (My first batch was lovely).
A. It is a watery consistency with unincorporated water.
B. The concentrated base is very hard, like coco wafer consistency, I have to break it up with a knife.

Four changes:
1. I used BTMS instead of emulsifying wax (to the concentrated base)
2. I added 1% dimethicone (part of the 5% additives)
3. I think this is the problem-after adding the boiling water and emulsifying to a lovely mixture, I, unthinkingly, added cold orange blossom hydrosol (20% of the liquid. This was my fragrance, deducted from the amount of boiling water). Should I have boiled this with the water? Will it lose it’s fragrance?
4. I added 1/4 tsp hyaluronic acid powder (should I have made it into a gel first for proper incorporation?)

An additional question:
The recipe gives the option to sub the coconut oil with liquid oils, such as sunflower-will this change the consistency of the lotion?

To fix it, I’m thinking of
-bringing the whole thing to a boil and using the emulsion blender.
-should I add more concentrate base?

Sorry so many questions, I changed too many things at once…

When you're making your lotion, are you making certain that you're bringing the temperature up to 70C (minimum)? It needs that heat in order to melt the concentrate completely. (That would be the concentrate, your water, and other water-based ingredients like 1% HA solution.) Once the concentrate is completely melted and at temp, make sure to blend for 2 minutes to ensure that it has fully emulsified.

When I make mine, I will usually use Aloe Vera distillate and 1% HA solution as part of my water (discounted from the water amount). If I'm making a facial cream, I may use a hydrosol as a partial water replacement and not add extra fragrance.

If you're wanting to bring your failed cream back up to heat, you will need to add more preservative. I would use that batch for personal use only.

 

[Georgeandstella]

@Georgeandstella my concentrated base can get very hard, as well, especially when I use coconut oil rather than a liquid oil. BTMS is also quite hard; I don't know if it is harder than emulsifying wax, but that might be part of the issue with the hardness.

I didn't think that BTMS was as strong of an emulsifier as e-wax. That could be part of the reason your emulsion didn't hold. But adding the cold hydrosol was almost certainly a factor in breaking the emulsion if you did that before the lotion had cooled significantly. I don't boil my hydrosols, but I do warm them to 140ºF and combine them with the preservative before adding that to a warm emulsion. I also keep stick-blending for a bit after that.

Regarding the use of sunflower instead of coconut in the base, I did something similar recently with meadowfoam seed oil. The base took longer to set up and felt a little greasier than batches made with CO. It's firm now, but still softer than when I used coconut, and has a yellow color instead of being pure white. However, the color of my finished lotion was barely changed; the white wasn't quite as bright, but it was still white.

Regarding the HA, I have never added the powder directly. Instead, I make a small bottle of HA solution that I keep on hand for adding to lotions. Like @Misschief, I subtract the amount from my total water. Here is a good article about how to make the solution to keep on hand.

Thank you for this.

When you're making your lotion, are you making certain that you're bringing the temperature up to 70C (minimum)? It needs that heat in order to melt the concentrate completely. (That would be the concentrate, your water, and other water-based ingredients like 1% HA solution.) Once the concentrate is completely melted and at temp, make sure to blend for 2 minutes to ensure that it has fully emulsified.

When I make mine, I will usually use Aloe Vera distillate and 1% HA solution as part of my water (discounted from the water amount). If I'm making a facial cream, I may use a hydrosol as a partial water replacement and not add extra fragrance.

If you're wanting to bring your failed cream back up to heat, you will need to add more preservative. I would use that batch for personal use only.

Thank you!
The aloe Vera is a great suggestion. I will add the preservative at the end.
I only make for personal use, I’m way too new at this to even consider selling

 

[Misschief]

Thank you for this.

Thank you!
The aloe Vera is a great suggestion. I will add the preservative at the end.
I only make for personal use, I’m way too new at this to even consider selling

Keep in mind this is not Aloe Vera gel or Aloe Vera extract; this is a shelf stable aloe vera distillate. The brand I use is George's Fractionally Distilled Liquid.

 

[Kcryss]

Any time! If you want inspiration on how to use it, don't hesitate to ask.

I appreciate it! Between you and @AliOop all questions are answered!

Speaking of which, I do have a sanitizing question. For making soap, I don't have concerns, but for making lotions etc., I've been wondering if what I'm doing is enough.
I wash everything well, and then rinse in a bleach water solution. I use the same dilution rate that restaurants use for sanitizing their dishes. 1 tbsp bleach to 1 gallon of water. I don't have 3 sinks though, so I rinse with running water and then put them through the bleach water. Is this sanitary enough or is there more to do?

 

[Misschief]

I appreciate it! Between you and @AliOop all questions are answered!

Speaking of which, I do have a sanitizing question. For making soap, I don't have concerns, but for making lotions etc., I've been wondering if what I'm doing is enough.
I wash everything well, and then rinse in a bleach water solution. I use the same dilution rate that restaurants use for sanitizing their dishes. 1 tbsp bleach to 1 gallon of water. I don't have 3 sinks though, so I rinse with running water and then put them through the bleach water. Is this sanitary enough or is there more to do?

I follow SCM's suggestions. Obviously, I wash down my counters and kitchen beforehand but I'm not obsessive about it. I spray my work area with 70% RA solution and allow it to dry. It's a bit of a losing battle here as we have ceramic tile counters (think ceramic tile floors) with grout; it's next to impossible to get the area completely clean and sanitary.

Bottles and jars (as per SCM) are assumed to be clean from the supplier and are stored in sealed bags, to be used as needed. Bowls, beakers, and beaters are sprayed with 70% RA and allowed to dry completely before use.

 

[AliOop]

When I used to work on a tile counter surface in a previous residence, I put down an oilcloth-type of tablecloth which was washed with a bleach solution, and then wiped down with IPA right before using. The grout was old and disgusting, so I just couldn't...

 

[Kcryss]

@Misschief and @AliOop - Thanks! I use RA/IPA as well on surfaces etc., bottles and jars I spray also and just let them dry while I make my batch.

 

[dmcgee5034]

Yesterday was my first time adding IPM at 1% of the additives, and no soaping this am when I used it! YAY! I split the batch and scented half with NS Grapefruit Bergmot and the other with NS Cucumber Melon.

 

[Kcryss]

Yesterday was my first time adding IPM at 1% of the additives, and no soaping this am when I used it! YAY! I split the batch and scented half with NS Grapefruit Bergmot and the other with NS Cucumber Melon.

I love IPM!
The scents sound great! Two of my favorites!

 

[Kcryss]

Oh My Gosh!! Soooo much faster!!
I'm sooo glad I bought this one!

Less than 30 minutes and already just waiting for a slight cool down to add preservative and fragrances. White Sage for half and Lilac & Willow for the other half. This is a very thick cream lotion which I can't seem to keep on hand.
I started with the 300g batch of the base just to see how well it worked. I'm sold. Giant batch coming soon! lol